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Slidemotor craziness

Janky_Lawler
Explorer
Explorer
I acquired a 2005 Trail-lite.. its wasnt terrible. Tb27ds



I have a dilemma, after having the battery terminals reversed on a very weak battery I've discovered that my Slide motor only slides when polarity is reversed without ground even, naturally all other 12v electrical things don't work during. When what I think is the correct polarity/ground (mind you both battery leads are red coated wire,
however one is bigger gauge) is hooked up the lights, pump, fridge etc will then work. Any ideas?



I'm novice, any help would be appreciated. To clarify its pretty standard for a chassis ground line to be grounded to neg term correct?

Also I checked fuses and breakers at box. Verified the number 8 fuse (slide) is pulling 12v with multimeter.



Thanks
6 REPLIES 6

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Okay to feel silly, but you learned something
And the fact that the converter fuses weren't installed possibly saved a repair replacement expense,
Lots of trailers came with black and white wires at the battery on the tongue,
Black was the positive and white was the negative ground to frame
Lots of RV interior lights are still manufactured with white and black wires for the connections on a 12vdc lamp, or sometimes two black wires, it's no wonder RV wiring is confusing to most people
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Janky_Lawler
Explorer
Explorer
Update: Trail-lite Trail-Bay TB27DS.

For starters I'm an idiot, both red to positive, duh.

As far as converter, so upon inspecting the box I noticed the reverse polarity fuses weren't even installed. The previous owner mainly used a trickle charger. After installing the fuses the battery is reading about 13.7 when shoreline is connected.

I feel silly now but, hey maybe it'll help someone else.

Be blessed.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
So you have put the battery wiring right, and now the slide works in /out ok?

If so, you are on battery but no converter if on shore power to recharge the battery, so look for the RP fuses on the converter or else on the DC fuse panel next to the converter. Might be say, two 30a fuses. Other sizes and numbers possible.

Please post the model of the converter (as seen on the power centre when you drop/open the panel, so we know where the fuses are.

Digital multimeter has a black and red lead.Red is pos. so with red lead on pos battery post and black lead on neg battery post the display will say, eg 12.56 volts. If you put the blackl lead on the pos post and the red on the neg post, it will say, - 12.56 volts.

That is handy for trouble-shooting so you can tell which is a positive wire in a pair you are not sure which is which.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Janky_Lawler
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
Welcome to the forum.


Yes, the Lippert electric slide works from its own pos wire on the battery (often red) with a 30a fuse (check that too) separate from the other (often red) wire for the DC fuse panel-to /from the converter (with another fuse for that wire near the battery)



On the battery red and white wires--red is pos , white is minus. If red and black-- red is pos, black minus. If black and white-- black is pos and white is minus..

AND

Other colours, use your voltmeter--if it shows a - in front of the numbers, that is an RP, and if it shows just the numbers, that is good.



So I'm great at a lot of things but not so much electrical. When you mentioned how they both run red wires it made sense why they were working alternately seeing as I put one of them on neg every other tryWell honestly I just ran both red wires to the positive terminal. Problem solved. However the only thing that can be construed as a ground/ negative is a short wire bolted straight into the tongue.

Also I'm pretty sure the converter/ charging component is shot. I hear no fan. Furthermore this alleged fuse/ breaker near the battery seems non existent IMO

NEXT

When your referencing using the voltmeter I'm not sure I understand how to diagnose lead wires that have no battery hooked up to them to determine a number.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Welcome to the forum.

The converter may have its reverse polarity fuses blown, but you should be able to run the slide once the RP is corrected from the battery alone.

Yes, the Lippert electric slide works from its own pos wire on the battery (often red) with a 30a fuse (check that too) separate from the other (often red) wire for the DC fuse panel-to /from the converter (with another fuse for that wire near the battery)

The slide motor does work in reverse polarity at the IN/OUT switch. That switch is grounded to the frame as is the motor, so pos wire to battery runs that. RP at the battery would make that wire to the switch neg, but not sure it would make the RV frame positive.

On the battery red and white wires--red is pos , white is minus. If red and black-- red is pos, black minus. If black and white-- black is pos and white is minus.

Other colours, use your voltmeter--if it shows a - in front of the numbers, that is an RP, and if it shows just the numbers, that is good.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Janky_Lawler
Explorer
Explorer
I guess it's clear that the converter/breaker/fuse box is either stopping the 12v going to the switch somehow as i believe the slides are usually connected directly to the battery and generally just spin the other way if hooked up.backwards