Solar Charge Controller

[wbwood]

Looking at solar and seeing different options for controllers. What's the difference between PWM and MPPT?

[wbwood]

SkiSmuggs wrote:
The 15' cable that comes with the Renogy portables is way too short so I plan to move the controller near the batteries. I really liked someone's idea of having two different length cables with quick connects. I had already replaced the alligator clips with ring/Anderson ends.

I'm debating on the portable or piecing it together. If I piece it together, I will go with some longer cable. The upside of going with the portables is that they will already be hinged together and have a built in stand. The downside is that the controller is mounted on it and thus you don't want to really have the panels too far from the batteries then.

[wbwood]

jhilley wrote:
You shouldn't put the batteries and controller in the same compartment. It would be ok with AGM batteries, but not with batteries that give off hydrogen. I have my batteries in the step area and the controller in the storage bay just behind the door. You may be able to relocate the chassis starting battery to the front with a Drop Down Battery Tray

My starting battery is in the engine compartment already...I have two house batteries under the steps. That's all that will fit there.

[SkiSmuggs]

The 15' cable that comes with the Renogy portables is way too short so I plan to move the controller near the batteries. I really liked someone's idea of having two different length cables with quick connects. I had already replaced the alligator clips with ring/Anderson ends.

[mena661]

jhilley wrote:
Drop Down Battery Tray

That's pretty neat.

[jhilley]

You shouldn't put the batteries and controller in the same compartment. It would be ok with AGM batteries, but not with batteries that give off hydrogen. I have my batteries in the step area and the controller in the storage bay just behind the door. You may be able to relocate the chassis starting battery to the front with a Drop Down Battery Tray

[wbwood]

BFL13 wrote:


You could have the controller in a waterproof box you make that sits under the steps near the batteries. In that case the controller is portable too so now you need the pigtail connection/disconnects on the battery wires from the controller to connect it all up.

I like that idea. I will have to look tomorrow and see if there is room for such. The battery area is open underneath. I was thinking of running a quick connect and mounting it underneath to the side of the door. That way I can just plug in to the bottom of the coach.

[wbwood]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

You would have to reinforce the storage bay marked in Red. Batteries are heavy. It would be best to use switches so that you can use one bank while charging the other. That way it is still possible to maintain balanced wiring.

Yes it would take some reinforcing as the bay bottom is more like a tub.

But am just thinking ahead. I think two batteries will suffice for us.

[wbwood]

Not mounting on top of the roof. Keeping it portable. Want to be able to use the panels at home as well in the future. Will be just 2 - 100 watt panels. The picture you posted is not showing the two fantastic vent covers that were installed afterwards one forward over the front cab bed and one in the rear over the back bed.

[time2roll]

Looks like two big panels would fit up front, MC4 wire down the fridge vent and through the cabinets to the controller and finally the battery.



Looks like too many air conditioners or vents to the rear.
Have a roof pic? Hard to tell where the cab-over vent is positioned.

[BFL13]

Ok it is not a trailer. It is still a sun blocker, same problem. Best place is on the roof so no own-Rv sun blocking. Means being spry at your age. 🙂 Otherwise the portable is on the ground.

You have to arrange where the wires can get into where the controller is. (eg, put a "cable hatch" in the basement compartment's door. )

You need pigtails from the controller array terminals that you connect to with your long wires from the panel. Connect/disconnect with wirenuts or jumper cable type clamps whatever to the pigtails. Some people use ?? Anderson poles?? ( maybe somebody can explain those)

You need to wire from the controller to the battery bank. Maybe drill a hole through the wall between their adjacent compartments and then use goop to seal the hole with the wires in it.

You could have the controller in a waterproof box you make that sits under the steps near the batteries. In that case the controller is portable too so now you need the pigtail connection/disconnects on the battery wires from the controller to connect it all up.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

You would have to reinforce the storage bay marked in Red. Batteries are heavy. It would be best to use switches so that you can use one bank while charging the other. That way it is still possible to maintain balanced wiring.

[mena661]

No problem putting the controller in that compartment. Just make sure wize size is good. Also, if you move the batteries to the other compartment, just make sure the compartment is vented. I actually put two vents in my battery compartment (moved it from the factory location too).

[wbwood]

Another question. Here is a picture of the side of my coach. Where the blue drawn Bo is where my house batteries are stored. Hey are underneath the stairs. To the left, where the red box is, is a storage bay where I thought of putting the charge controller. Is that a good spot?

Also, if I decided to get a couple more batteries in the future (say we decide to do a lot more camping without hook ups, would it be able to put the batteries in a compartment like that? I know I would nee to do it where they are secured and could run lines out to he other two batteries. Just wondering if batteries can be housed in a closed are like that.

[wbwood]

No offense BFL13, but it's not a trailer. Lmao

[BFL13]

wbwood wrote:
Just saw that Renogy has the same stuff on eBay but for a little less, still with free shipping.

What would be the recommended length of cable for a portable set up? Would 20' suffice or would just go ahead and go longer right from the start?

With a portable panel set up and wired over the ground to the trailer, your problem is the trailer itself blocking the sun. It is all about your parking situation wrt South, and whether you can spot the panel out far enough without it being in the next guy's site. You might have to move the panel to the other side or the other end of the trailer part way through the day. You need lots of wire for the panel to trailer run for all occasions. Maybe a rule of thumb would be trailer length plus ten feet?