โMay-28-2019 07:57 PM
โMay-29-2019 05:31 PM
wopachop wrote:Yikes.
Guess it depends on the type of camping. A lot of my friends have the honda 2000s and run them the entire time.
โMay-29-2019 05:29 PM
โMay-29-2019 05:28 PM
BFL13 wrote:Perhaps inverters are too complicated. Generators are easy to understand.
Yes, some folks never heard of an inverter.
โMay-29-2019 05:26 PM
2oldman wrote:wopachop wrote:People often take heat on here for wanting to watch TV or use the internet while camping, as if that's just not right.
Previous owner said they would run the genny practically 24/7 while camping.
But running a generator 24/7 ? Ugh. That really isn't right.
โMay-29-2019 05:20 PM
wopachop wrote:People often take heat on here for wanting to watch TV or use the internet while camping, as if that's just not right.
Previous owner said they would run the genny practically 24/7 while camping.
โMay-29-2019 04:17 PM
wopachop wrote:
So it sounds like you guys are saying its possible the AGMs died under 2 years because of being undercharged.
Yes the solar controller is cheap. GoPower 30amp Pwm. Max i see at the batteries is about 8amps. No temp compensation.
It is the wfco converter. Previous owner said they would run the genny practically 24/7 while camping. So there is a chance the batteries were never really discharged and hit with a big amp charge. I measured 14 or 17amps from the wfco. But with solar and genny power there is a chance the converter was mostly in float mode?
Plan was to invest in a better solar charge controller. Now im thinking a better converter would be the way to go. Since i only have a single 155w panel i would need much more if i wanted to consider my solar the main charge source.
Other option, like i posted before, is using my RC charger. Thing was like $300. Im trying to figure out if i can make it do a constant voltage equalization charge. If thats the case i can discharge the batts at home and then blast them with a strong charge. My RC charger does have a Pb setting and i can choose 6v. I think you guys told me i want 10% so around 20amps would be ideal?
(the trailer has AGM currently, but switching to 6v)
โMay-29-2019 01:50 PM
wopachop wrote:
Now im thinking a better converter would be the way to go. Since i only have a single 155w panel i would need much more if i wanted to consider my solar the main charge source.
Other option, like i posted before, is using my RC charger. Thing was like $300. Im trying to figure out if i can make it do a constant voltage equalization charge. If thats the case i can discharge the batts at home and then blast them with a strong charge. My RC charger does have a Pb setting and i can choose 6v. I think you guys told me i want 10% so around 20amps would be ideal?
(the trailer has AGM currently, but switching to 6v)
โMay-29-2019 01:05 PM
โMay-29-2019 12:04 PM
โMay-29-2019 11:59 AM
โMay-29-2019 10:57 AM
โMay-29-2019 10:43 AM
BFL13 wrote:
Switch is good for isolating panel from controller before disconnecting battery. Idea of using a cover on the panel without disconnecting it does not seem the same somehow, but not sure.
โMay-29-2019 10:42 AM
wopachop wrote:Maybe disconnect the converter to avoid constant float.
Everything i read says a constant float charge is harmful to both flooded and sealed.
โMay-29-2019 10:39 AM
Ski Pro 3 wrote:pianotuna wrote:
Ski Pro 3,
Panels are often 17 volts. Much higher voltage panels are also available. Mine are wired in series/parallel giving a nominal voltage of 33 on the input side of the controller.
That is the open circuit rating for the panel voltage. No current. Once the circuit is configured, the measured voltage at the solar panel won't be 17 volts, or 33 as the case may be. A switch isn't rated on it's voltage as much as it's rated on it's amperage.
โMay-29-2019 10:30 AM
wopachop wrote:
It seems like most people on this site go to campgrounds. So their trailer is either stored or hooked to shore power. If you have solar without a disconnect that means your batteries are always fully charged and every morning get cooked at 14.4v. I still think that is what killed my deep cycle marine batteries premature. I read the trojan link many times over the last few years. It does not recommend a constant float on both sealed and flooded.