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Solar install charge question

SlideInDad
Explorer
Explorer
Adding the solar panels and charge controller this week. I have read that the converter IQ charger and the Solar Charge controller can confuse each other so wonder if I should use a marine battery switch to be able to select charge source to the batteries so they don't conflict. Or am I overthinking this.
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax CC - 2006 Lance 861
SuperSprings/Airlift/Bilstein 5100/TowBeast/Torklift tie downs
previous setup:
2001 Silverado 3500 DRW Duramax - 2003 Arctic Fox 1150 Dry Bath
5 REPLIES 5

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
My controller "plays well" with all other charging devices.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
"I have read that the converter IQ charger and the Solar Charge controller can confuse each other..."

BFL is correct. You are overthinking this issue. You'll love solar. Your solar controller will probably be smarter than your converter.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

ajriding
Explorer II
Explorer II
Agree with above, they can both charge, and the higher voltage source will be in charge of the charge.

Which charger is smarter? You can easily just flip the breaker to the RV electric charger when you have good sun, and plugged in, so only the solar is doing the work, no need to add extra switches. The charger usually is on its own circuit breaker, not shared with anything.
However, this means you are running of batteries and not the DC power from the converter. Using the converter will prolong the battery life. Better to have a switch from converter to battery and is same reason as explained below... safety.
Again, you do not need a switch, but for maintenance is good idea.

Since you are doing the install I recommend putting a switch on the positive feed from the panel(s) so you can turn them off. Before disconnecting the battery for any maintenance reason you should first disconnect the solar panel to prevent any possibility of damage to the panel.
I used a single circuit breaker switch so it doubles as a fuse/breaker and a manual switch.

Are you running parallel or in series?

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Overthinking is correct.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The one with the higher voltage will do most of the charging at the time. No confusion. The converter only works when you have shore power or on gen, and you don't care if the solar does anything then, so no worries. The solar is for when off grid so no converter then anyway.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.