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Storing with gas in tank, for a year or more?

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hi folks, I'd like your advice!

I probably won't be driving my van in the next 12 months.

It has a full gas tank, regular gas. It's up on leveling blocks and I would like to keep it that way, because it was level when it was loaded for travel and I have since unloaded it. I want to build some cabinets in there and I want to maintain my sense of what is level when loaded.

I have some startron, and possibly also some seafoam. I didn't add anything when I filled the tank. If I add some now, and leave the engine running for half an hour or so, will that mix the startron in well enough? Or is it going to eat a hole in my gas fill tube or something?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.
30 REPLIES 30

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Naio wrote:
In my wet climate, it's recommended to store vehicles with a full tank to decrease condensation inside the tank.
Maybe not if you leave the gas cap off. Or keep the garage heated.. if that's where it is. Not sure why you need to run it.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
I get the message of service temporarily unavaialble nine times out of ten. if it is when I attempt to post, and go back to the page to try to post it again it won't let me.
So if this post. Get a can of VP race fuel concentrate, or Sunoco etc if they have it. one can makes 10 gallons f race fuel with any gas.
Roughly 22.00 per can at parts store.
Obviously it wont' turn a large tank into 110 octane racing gas but what it will do with the tolulene and oxygenators in it is clean lines etc and any sour gas in small quantities.
This is when you intend to start it up after sitting.
Buy a bottle or two depending on tank size of Chevron or other additive designed to replace what cheap gas does not have detergents in it and add it to your gas. it will help clean liens etc too.
If you have Ethanol gas mix in your tank by all means use blue bottle of Stabil before you shut it down, for winter or whatever. When you intend to restart it if you have a water separator near the tank or anywhere drain it. You will most likely find some water with ethanol in the gas. Today with this Ethanol gas on a large tank of a Mh If I had one that used gas I would install a fuel/water separator at the low poing in the line near the tank. Make sure the separator/filter media is ethanol gas compatible not diesel only.
That's just my 2 cents and other I am sure have some better advice.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Naio wrote:
In my wet climate, it's recommended to store vehicles with a full tank to decrease condensation inside the tank.
Yup thats true with all gas tanks. Sometimes you have to pick the lesser evil. My toyhauler has an aux gas tank that feeds the genny. I siphoned out the old gas from previous owner because he told me it was old. Since then i keep the gas tank practically empty. Start the genny every month and add some fresh 91 when i have it.

Might be something to consider. Get fresh gas every couple months and only add enough to run it for as long as you planned. That means you have to sell the gas thats currently in it. I would personally go that route versus a full tank of gas that i know will sit for a year.

I know im a starTron fan but boat guys like it because it also absorbs any accidental water from the fuel. Which means it could help with the condensation issue.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Naio,

Buy a cheap timer from a dollar store. Try to find out the parasitic loads on the Van.

For my car, the parastic loads are about 0.7 amp-hours per day. I run the trickle charger for 3 hours per day because it is the coldest part of the year. I'm still using the OEM battery (2013). No signs of deterioration.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
In my wet climate, it's recommended to store vehicles with a full tank to decrease condensation inside the tank.

I forgot to respond to someone's comment about batteries. I do have trickle chargers hooked up on the AGMs, and the chassis negative terminal unhooked.

Is it ok to leave the trickle chargers on long term?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Siphon and sell it to a buddy?

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'd be thinking of draining the gas.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Naio,

It is illegal to use a non approved container for gasoline.

If you have existing cans, pressure wash them, or steam clean them if you are concerned about contamination. Rinsing with naptha would work too--but then there is the issue of what to do with the dregs. Burning works, I guess. Starting briquets for cooking would work, too, but make sure to not cook for say 20 minutes.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Gallon water bottles work great. You know its clean. Can toss in a piece of paper towel and shake it around if youre in a hurry to get it dry. Or just leave the cap off for a couple days. Upside down so dust doesnt collect inside.

Picture below is a troubleshoot tool. If you have a genny or small engine that doesnt start just pull the fuel line and gravity feed it known clean gas. Or even a mega strong mixture of starTron if youre trying to get a genny with a clogged up carb running. Can let the mixture sit in the carb for days and break up junk.

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
To clarify, I do plan to run the van every month or so, but keeping it up on its leveling blocks. I don't think that I can rock it back and forth while it is on the blocks.

I like the idea of mixing the stabilizer into a can of gas and pouring it in. Maybe with a second can of plain gas to mix it down into the tank.

I only drove about half a mile after filling the tank, but I assume there is room for a little extra?

This brings up another question, though. I do have several gas cans, but I have picked them up at garage sales over the years and I've never cleaned them out. For all I know they have been used for gas/oil mixtures or something.

In a normal year I would probably rinse them out with rubbing alcohol and let it evaporate, but sadly I did not do that in a normal year, and rubbing alcohol is no longer a thing that exists. Paint thinner? Or would a gas station let me use a little gas to rinse them and dump it out somewhere?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
jdc1 wrote:
Seafoam? For a gas stabilizer? Hmmmm.....


Yes Seafoam is an excellent stabilizer. It's used for other purposes too. Some say the best is marine Stabil
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
There must be a difference in gasoline throughout the North American Continent. Our ol Bounder set for about 8 months with a tank full of E10 and no fuel additives. Fired it up, a couple of weeks ago, to test out the rear end overhaul. Started up on the first turn and ran like new. Fired up the 7K Onan upon return and it run OK. I never have a problem with any of the law care engines sitting for 5 or 6 months with E10 and no additives.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Naio,

I see lots of room to prevent problems here.

The first is that your plan is for a year shutdown. When I put boats (not mine, these are clients that pay my)up for storage, I always do it for indefinite storage not matter what the owner says. You should do the same. There have been more than a few times that the vessel was stored longer than was expected.

You give no hint what model year the van is. If it is less than ancient, it does not have a carburetor, but has electrically opened fuel injectors. These turn out to be very foul proof. Adding a fuel stabilizer won't hurt and when done, you can top off the tank(s) from a can. This will limit the amount of breathing in air and moisture that the tanks can do.

Next - Fog the engine(s). This is done in the marine trades all the time. Years later a well fogged engine can be re-started with no issue but a few minutes of smoke. With the right fogging oil, the O2 sensor and catalyst will even survive.

Last - Either get power to the batteries or get them to where they can be kept on an service charger. If there is now power available, there are small solar panels available to do this.

There is no way to keep the tires and other rubber from aging out. I keep looking of a calendar retarder, but the technology just has not gotten there yet.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.