Suburban W Heater sol. leaking gas

[wolfwatcher]

Let me clear that up. I can fire the gas water heater fine, heats, etc. Thermostat shuts flame off, but sol stays energized? I can unplug ground wire, clicks and gas flow quits. Plug back in, and gas flows. Every once in a while the gas switch will red light reset. Gas switch works fine mostly, but the gas leak after flame goes out has been consistant. This sol. stays energized with all switches on electric.
SW10DE. Maybe original, '99 Arctic Fox.

[wolfwatcher]

Thank you Rich, as you brought up something I wasn't thinking about. I am guessing? the t-stat commands the system to fire up to maintain heat? But if it detects no flame, it should shut down the gas flow, correct? This morning, the reset light was on, but I had removed the ground wire (at sol) to be sure the leak wouldn't happen. Plugged the ground this morning, fired system up again, all okay so far. I will monitor again today, but thanks to you all I am slowly understanding this system. Still don't understand why I could manipulate the sol. by removing the ground wire? But hoping it will act up so I can trace the power back. We are up in Red Feather Lakes, Co., so dealing with daily rain showers/storms also. Boy this is fun!!

[wolfwatcher]

I have been thinking a little on that also. But, today's update, away from the trailer for a couple of days, checked it this morning before firing up by putting ground wire on, no click, no leak. Fired up the gas side like it should??? So, I will be checking through out the day, but have my multi meter with me so hope it acts up.

[RJsfishin]

Quote:
Thermostat shuts flame off, but sol stays energized?
-----------------------------------------------
Well, which is it ?? If the sillynoid on the gas valve is staying energized, why is the flame going out ??

PS
Whoops, just saw this has already been addresed

[Ozlander]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Can't see how 120 AC would be suspect....separate junction box, separate wiring runs etc.


Wouldn't element need to be energized for that to even remotely happen

When electricity wants to, it will always find a path.

[wolfwatcher]

I haven't forgotten folks. I will be back at the trailer Friday, and can't wait to track this thing down.

[Old-Biscuit]

AND how does Dougrainer's posts show up when not originally there and then poof there they are :H

dougrainer wrote:

I have mastered the art of Time Travel. Doug

:B

[dougrainer]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Can't see how 120 AC would be suspect....separate junction box, separate wiring runs etc.

I have to admit some convoluted reasoning there- simply because I have seen weirder things happen. My (flawed) thinking involves a bad ground, with enough leakage from the element to raise the water heater ground enough to backfeed through the gas valve to a ground through the module.

Theoretically, it could happen- in the real world, the water heater is grounded through the copper LP line, at least.

Wouldn't element need to be energized for that to even remotely happen :H

IF you need to replace solenoids..........HERE


AND how does Dougrainer's posts show up when not originally there and then poof there they are :H

I have mastered the art of Time Travel. Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

Chris Bryant wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Can't see how 120 AC would be suspect....separate junction box, separate wiring runs etc.

I have to admit some convoluted reasoning there- simply because I have seen weirder things happen. My (flawed) thinking involves a bad ground, with enough leakage from the element to raise the water heater ground enough to backfeed through the gas valve to a ground through the module.

Theoretically, it could happen- in the real world, the water heater is grounded through the copper LP line, at least.

Wouldn't element need to be energized for that to even remotely happen :H

IF you need to replace solenoids..........HERE


AND how does Dougrainer's posts show up when not originally there and then poof there they are :H

[Chris_Bryant]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Can't see how 120 AC would be suspect....separte junction box, separate wiring runs etc.

I have to admit some convoluted reasoning there- simply because I have seen weirder things happen. My (flawed) thinking involves a bad ground, with enough leakage from the element to raise the water heater ground enough to backfeed through the gas valve to a ground through the module.

Theoretically, it could happen- in the real world, the water heater is grounded through the copper LP line, at least.

[wolfwatcher]

Thanks Old Biscuit. More good info to go on. Will retrieve nec tools tonight and be back at it tomorrow. For now the electric side works great.

[Old-Biscuit]

IF thermostat functions/shuts off propane then there would be NO Voltage to circuit board cause when t-stat OPENS it cuts DC (+)

Only way for DC power to get to circuit board would be wiring issue/cross wire/short inside junction box on side of WH

Have you measured the voltage?
Measure coming from t-stat (red wire) and measure oing to gas solenoids (brown wire)

Can't see how 120 AC would be suspect....separte junction box, separate wiring runs etc.

[wolfwatcher]

The service manual helps a lot. Of course, my vom and test light are 40 miles away, but that will be fixed tonight. I also noticed in the manual it mentioned the t-stat governs the voltage to the switch? Once I can track the flow I might be in luck. I will post findings tomorrow.

[Chris_Bryant]

It really cannot be the circuit board, because it has no power to it when not operating. I would trace the brown wire back to the circuit board, and do a general inspection of all connections.
I was also wondering about a weird backfeed from the 120 volt side- not sure about that though.

There is a schematic in the service manual I have here.

[dougrainer]

wolfwatcher wrote:
Thanks Chris. I can actually "operate" the sol. by removing/installing the ground, so it has voltage. Just not sure if the circuit board could somehow be keeping the sol. energized, or the switch somehow staying on? I am not finding a good schematic to figure it out. Yet.

The wall switch has nothing to do with energizing the solenoid. The solenoid is controlled by the Ignition module. I would suspect the ignition module has water corrosion on it and this is bleeding the voltage to the solenoid wire. Doug