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Test Results-Used T-1275s

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
(Test Results in a later post in thread page 2)

What does the peanut gallery think is the proper SG on a well-used battery? I can never figure out if it is 1.275 but on a reduced capacity, or if it should reflect the reduced capacity same as when using those SOC vs SG charts.

So is 1.255 "full" when capacity is 81% of new, or should the existing capacity of say, 243AH of 300AH rating still get to 1.275?
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
20 REPLIES 20

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
Michael in MN wrote:
Does this article help:

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/sg_soc.html

I think it's saying that you'll effectively have smaller battery with less capacity
If I'm reading this right then you'll see a lower SG.

Michael_in_MN
Explorer
Explorer
Does this article help:

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/sg_soc.html

I think it's saying that you'll effectively have smaller battery with less capacity
-----------------------------
LivinLite Camplite 16BHB
2015 Silverado 1500

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I can't tell from the situation before solar slows down at the end of daytlight, if I am just before SG jumps to final right at the end. Or if the 1.255 is the end.

http://www.engineersedge.com/battery/specific_gravity_battery.htm
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

parametric
Explorer
Explorer
SG is Specific Gravity. it is a comparison density RATIO of sulphuric acid to water with distilled water being the universal 1.000. The solution of the electrolyte (sulphric acid and water) at 1.275 is the full strength of the electrolyte solution. If you add more water to the solution (electrolyte), you would be diluting the solution and the SG would decrease. A low SG does not necessary mean the end of the battery. You need to charge the battery and then check the SG again. (It's like slowly pouring Irish Creme into a glass of water. If you don't stir the drink, the SG at the bottom of the glass will still be 1.000 because the cream is only at the top.) the main importance of the battery's SG is the variation between the cells. I look at SG as an indicator. So would be cell voltage readings, again variation. A Load Test or a heavy discharge test is probably more reliable.
BTW - some people tried adding fresh battery acid to an old battery to raised the SG, which it may well do, but the battery cell plates are usually so over-sulphated, it may not achieved anything. When a battery becomes oversulphated, the internal resistance goes up so that it may not accept a charge efficiently. If Resistance goes up, Amps goes down in order to maintain same voltage. Your 80 Amp alternator can put out 80 Amps, but your old battery can only accept 10 amps, between starting, lights, accessories, etc, it's a losing battle.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Never mind how good the question is, what's the good answer? ๐Ÿ™‚

I am trying to understand what is the state of play with my "pre-enjoyed" set of T-1275s.

Thanks.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
This is a good question! I would think they'd show lower SG but it might be something weird.