TWO Battery DC Solid State Relay Diagram

[MEXICOWANDERER]

DC DC DC Solid State Relays are GREAT. No current hogging so they can be wired in parallel for as high a current you wish. They do need a heatsink. Both are available on eBay. Advantage? NO contacts to burn out and milliamp rated switching current. ALMOST ZERO VOLTAGE DROP. The diagram below should be kept if you wish as it simplifies use of a relay on a two battery system...

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Hair Pin 240-ampere alternators are available for bolt for bolt replacements on Ford and GM vehicles. One hundred forty amperes hot output in gear at slowest idle. Increasing output wire AWG is mandatory. My 50DN which weighs a ton develops 288 amps and as speed of the Lombordini deceases until horsepower sags still at 288 amps and the engine stops. At full speed the alternator develops 385 amps.

No need for a puny undersized alternator to overheat trying to do a man's job.

[RoyB]

landyacht318 - I haven't been thinking about having SOLAR PANELS in the mix... Will have to digest some more it appears...

My main goal was to never drain down the start battery on my truck setup like in the old days using the high current diodes haha...

Adding my truck alternator charge to the mix was a later idea. I originally was going to just always charge being connected to the camper trailer converter/charger or have a portable smart mode charger like the B&D VEC1093DBD which I already carry in the truck anyway. I always have my 2KW generator secured in the truck bed as well.

My solar panels would be mounted on the trailer roof so perhaps when I am just using the truck stand-alone for my RADIO OPS it wont be a big deal about the sense issue you brought up...

Roy Ken

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Ze MANUAL SWITCH relay with low milli-amp voltage drop hovers above. If you don't flip a toggle switch it don't relay...

Keep this relay switched on for months and it may total 4 ampere hours consumption. Compare that against a half ampere coil regular relay.

[landyacht318]

While I love Blue seas products, the their ACR's are all dual sense. If a solar system has the house battery voltage up, then it parallels the engine starting battery.

I'd prefer single sense. Parallel batteries only when engine battery sees charging voltages

Personally I want all my solar electrons going into the depleted house battery, not shared with my engine battery which is always 98%+ charged.

Manual switches are my choice, even if less convenient. I will dictate where electrons flow to and from.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Here's a HUNDRED AMP version again DIRECT CURRENT that operates down to 5 volts switching voltage minimum.





http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-100-DD-DC-DC-100A-3-32VDC-5-60VDC-/350680692320?p...

AGAIN! These relays must be mounted on an appropriate finned aluminum heat sink available on eBay. SEARCH 100-amp solid state relay heat sink

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Ooooo the diagram is to control load switching. Like a SALESMAN switch only this thing cuts off the whole she-bang. The two-battery diagram is for convenience only. Salesman switches done right need only one battery as solid state only need 3 volts to switch. I've seen sixty ampere versions of this relay so if common sense is used sizing relays for high loads a TRUE inside the coach total and complete isolation hotel shutdown is possible. I still would use a genuine heavy-duty switch and 16-gauge cross-link wire to trigger the relay. Adel clamp the heck out of the black nylon spiral wrap that would protect the wire.

[RoyB]

MEX - I have had good luck with testing the SI-ACR SMART RELAY that BLUE SEA has... Not all that expensive and it will auto switch when the ALTERNATER is in BULK CHARGE MODE and parallel the second battery group to get charged at the same time... You can also force it in the two charge zones also manually...

This keeps you from ever running down the start battery...


I am planning this setup if and when I can get some monies together to get my new batteries someday soon...


I am wanting to have two separate battery groups with one in the truck bed to support my outing in the truck alone for my radio ops and then connect the two battery groups to gether when I am in camping mode... I want to use the TROJAN 150AH T1275 batteries in both places verses the 110AH shown in the schematic. Incorporated into my setup will look something like this schematic


This connects to two more batteries in my OFF-ROAD POPUP. The 80A converter/charger should charge all 4 of these batteries OK and the alternator will only need to charge the two additional batteries shown here when it is charging the start battery (total of three batteries during this time)

My scary thoughts is will my truck alternator be high enough to charge extra batteries...

Roy Ken