Under hood inverter install? Chev 3500HD

[beemerphile1]

I would love to install an inverter under the hood of my 2016 3500HD D/A. Unfortunately the engine compartment is so packed I can't find room. I have the 220 amp alternator.

Unfortunately it appears that the only place with enough room would require it to sit on top of the engine compartment fuse box. To mount the inverter elsewhere in the truck would involve long heavy cable to power a 2,000/4,000 watt inverter.

I am not looking to power the RV, just the occasional chain saw or power tool. I have done it but had to bolt the cables on and then unbolt.

As a last resort I have considered using Anderson Powerpole connectors but I would really love to permanently mount it. I would like to avoid storing the inverter elsewhere and installing when needed.

Any ideas? Anyone done something similar?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I hauled my Trace 4024 alternator around with a 25' long pair of 2/0 jumper cables for a year before it first went into Quicksilver then it migrated to the generator shed. Two handles on the inverter and 2 trips the second to fetch the cables. Nothing I care to manhandle requires wattage in excess of a thousand.

[beemerphile1]

ktmrfs wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.

sorry about the missunderstanding. However, how about adding the second alternator?? the bracket is already there, and changing the serpentine belt to the dual alternator would let you drive it.

Might be easier to set up than the factory dual alternator setup.

Nah, I have an extra inverter and cables. There is no reason to go to the added expense and complexity of adding an alternator.

[ktmrfs]

beemerphile1 wrote:

ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.

sorry about the missunderstanding. However, how about adding the second alternator?? the bracket is already there, and changing the serpentine belt to the dual alternator would let you drive it.

Might be easier to set up than the factory dual alternator setup.

[beemerphile1]

ktmrfs wrote:
another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC....

There were two optional electrical systems, one system does have two alternators, mine has a single large alternator.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I loved the Oklahoma (origin) and Texas alternator modification units. So simple, so cheap, so hazardous.

One burp from the engine and the 120vac 700Hz output shoots to 400 volts.

Dust covered heat exchangers be they internal or external hate dust and dirt with a flaming passion.

[ktmrfs]

another option. can the second alternator be configured to supply 120VAC?? I know there are kits to do that and maybe have a controller to have it either supply 120VAC or 12VDC?

It may take either adding the manual high idle control to the truck, or if it is like my 2016 Denali, it came with the manual high idle option.

[wa8yxm]

MrWizard wrote:
Behind the seat
Keep it out of the engine compartment

Best advice in thread.. Inverters do not like the kind of heat that happens in modern engnies.. Older engines were kept cooler but modern engines often get up to temps well over 200 degrees.. And it takes some special engineering for electronics to love that kind of heat.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

What I dislike about smaller Anderson Power Pole connectors is a good shake and they separate. What I dislike about about larger Anderson Power Pole Connectors is they are fussy about how they are assembled. One tiny mis step and the connectors do not lock correctly.

Try a REAL connector like a GROTE tractor trailer dual connection which has a lid that flops down protecting the conductors when not in use, in use the lid locks the cables to the box with a lip. These connectors accept good size wire.

[beemerphile1]

Allstar Terminal Connectors seem to be the ones commonly used for tow truck cable disconnect systems, they accept a maximum of 6 gauge wire.

Anderson Powerpole has connectors that take 1/0 and connectors that take 3/0.

[beemerphile1]

Okay, you've convinced of what I already expected. The permanent installation in the engine compartment isn't a great idea.

I think I will go with plan B, use plug in connectors and store the inverter elsewhere when not in use. I will consider the Powerpole connectors and look into tow truck accessories. I have seen connectors permanently mounted in the grille of trucks but didn't pay much attention to them. I won't be putting connectors in the grille though.

I have the factory inverter and an additional 400 watt inverter inside the passenger compartment already. I do not want to run 20' or more round trip cable for the 2,000/4,000 watt inverter.

Battery powered tools are great and I have a dozen or so, but they cannot do the work of real 110v power tools.

[pianotuna]

Inverters also hate heat, and vibration is not high on their list of loves. Under the hood is a bad place for an inverter.

[time2roll]

Engine compartment is full of heat, moisture and dirt. All of which an inverter hates.
2,000 watts really needs 4 batteries but you might squeak by with the alternator helping.
You may find a better environment in the RV or I would be putting the inverter in a tool box. The money will add up quick.

[GordonThree]

I believe Tripp Lite makes a rugged police / emergency inverter that is weather sealed, you can install it in an engine bay or other exposed area. It's pricey though!

I'm guessing you already have the dual batteries underhood? I thought it was neat that one GMC pickup I owned long ago had an empty battery box installed under the hood, to run a snow plow or something. That would have been the perfect spot for an inverter. The starting battery was tucked up into the dash, almost behind the engine. A GM engineer I spoke to claimed this was for crash test ratings... so the battery would survive a crash to continue recording data and to power the automatic OnStar crash response system.

My Ram has tons of room under the hood, easily enough for an extra alternator, battery, inverter, air compressor, you name it... but it's just a grocery getter.

[DrewE]

What tools other than a chain saw do you wish to run?

There's something to be said for thinking about cordless (electric) tools if they'll meet your needs. You can get a car charger for most any cordless tool system pretty easily, and the cost of the inverter and wiring may be pretty similar to the tools and charger and batteries and so forth.

Home Depot sells a Ryobi 18V chain saw (along with a plethora of other 18V tools). I gather that it's really not a very good chain saw, but if all you need is the occasional branch cut out of the way it might be sufficient. Many of the other tools are pretty decent, at least taking their price point into account.

(I do agree with everyone else that mounting the inverter in the engine compartment sounds like a bad idea. It's hot and dirty and sometimes wet or damp in there, the opposite of what electronics like.)