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Upgrading the factory Solar on my Momentum 398M

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
Plans are well underway to expand the Solar on my 398M.
I have 4 more Aims 120 watt panels to add to the two I already have.
The plan is to return the Jaboni back to it's factory stock configuration, of one 300 watt panel as it works properly like that. I will run the 6 Aims 120 watt panels as a seperate system. Two series strings of 3 panels, with an easy option of being able to add one more string of three.
I have the Victron 250/100 controller for the new Aims array. This system would total 1020 watts expandable to 1380 watts with ease.

I have one question. The easiest way to run the wiring from the roof is to use the sattelite dish wiring channel. I already have the coaxial cable for the dish and the control cable running thru it. There are two empty slots in the roof plate for the dish. I am considering just running the new array wires thru these slots terminating them on the roof with short cables capped with MC4 connectors. Which would then have 2 into 1 MC4 connectors plugged in, and the two Aims strings plugged into those. My question is on the roof penetration method. Conventional method is to use a gland. That would up the difficulty level a lot. (new hole in roof, likely a different location etc) I can not see any downsides to my proposed method.

What are the thoughts on this?
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW
8 REPLIES 8

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
https://www.jabonipowerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/30A-MPPT-RVC_7.9.19-1.pdf

The max Voc input is 45v as noted. Usual advice is that the controller will fry if that is exceeded. That is a low limit for a controller. Many are at 100v.

You add the Vocs of panels in series and the 300w panel would already be about 40V (WAG), so no way to add another panel in series, only in parallel.

You put two 12v panels in series for say 45v total Voc in parallel with the 40v Voc panel and it didn't quite work. One thing is that the MPPT might have had trouble tracking with different Vmps of the two sets in parallel. Ideal is to parallel similar voltage panels.

So using the Jamboni set as OEM is a good idea. (You might have almost fried it, but got away with it being so close there)

Using two controllers on the battery bank to add their amps works with both set to the same Vabs. You can play with the adjustments on each to best match your battery charging spec for Vabs.

(I have two sets on the Class C with a PWM and an MPPT adding their amps. I had three sets but moved one over to the TC when we got that)

No idea for where to run the wires in your rig. I drilled a new hole in the roof and ran the wires down into a high cupboard and then on from there. Lots of Dicor to fill the hole in the roof. No problem. Big thing is find a good location for the controllers somewhere near the batteries. Wiring routes are all up to what your floor plan allows and what you can get at for drilling holes.
Jaboni seemed to think that it should have worked, as It was close to but not over any of the specs... But the warranty requirements are onerous. I would have to take my TH into the dealer for them to do an diagnosis. They would have it 3-4 monthes and likely have no clue. I have already been this route on other warranty issues. I have no desire to go thru all of the headache for a 192.00 part. So I am just chalking it up to a bad experience, and moving on.
I already have the new wires pulled thru the sattelite wire channel. I have not finished it yet, as I am waiting for Amazon to deliver the special sealant that Alpha specs.
So if anyone can come up with a reason why my proposed method has any downsides, I can reverse course.

Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
https://www.jabonipowerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/30A-MPPT-RVC_7.9.19-1.pdf

The max Voc input is 45v as noted. Usual advice is that the controller will fry if that is exceeded. That is a low limit for a controller. Many are at 100v.

You add the Vocs of panels in series and the 300w panel would already be about 40V (WAG), so no way to add another panel in series, only in parallel.

You put two 12v panels in series for say 45v total Voc in parallel with the 40v Voc panel and it didn't quite work. One thing is that the MPPT might have had trouble tracking with different Vmps of the two sets in parallel. Ideal is to parallel similar voltage panels.

So using the Jamboni set as OEM is a good idea. (You might have almost fried it, but got away with it being so close there)

Using two controllers on the battery bank to add their amps works with both set to the same Vabs. You can play with the adjustments on each to best match your battery charging spec for Vabs.

(I have two sets on the Class C with a PWM and an MPPT adding their amps. I had three sets but moved one over to the TC when we got that)

No idea for where to run the wires in your rig. I drilled a new hole in the roof and ran the wires down into a high cupboard and then on from there. Lots of Dicor to fill the hole in the roof. No problem. Big thing is find a good location for the controllers somewhere near the batteries. Wiring routes are all up to what your floor plan allows and what you can get at for drilling holes.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
StirCrazy wrote:
Huntindog wrote:
Plans are well underway to expand the Solar on my 398M.
I have 4 more Aims 120 watt panels to add to the two I already have.
The plan is to return the Jaboni back to it's factory stock configuration, of one 300 watt panel as it works properly like that. I will run the 6 Aims 120 watt panels as a seperate system. Two series strings of 3 panels, with an easy option of being able to add one more string of three.
I have the Victron 250/100 controller for the new Aims array. This system would total 1020 watts expandable to 1380 watts with ease.

I have one question. The easiest way to run the wiring from the roof is to use the sattelite dish wiring channel. I already have the coaxial cable for the dish and the control cable running thru it. There are two empty slots in the roof plate for the dish. I am considering just running the new array wires thru these slots terminating them on the roof with short cables capped with MC4 connectors. Which would then have 2 into 1 MC4 connectors plugged in, and the two Aims strings plugged into those. My question is on the roof penetration method. Conventional method is to use a gland. That would up the difficulty level a lot. (new hole in roof, likely a different location etc) I can not see any downsides to my proposed method.

What are the thoughts on this?


if there is already two pannels installed, I would just add the 4 so that you have two runs of 3 in series. you may be looking at a different controler than what you presently have to do it, but you wouldnt be running any more cables from the roof down.

Steve
A little more background on this. The factory Jaboni system consisted of one 300 watt panel and a 30 amp controller. That controller is supposed to be able to handle 550 watts and 45 volts. My intial upgrade was the two Aims panels which came in just under what the Jaboni is supposed to be capable of.... However in practice the Jaboni will not do it. It keeps defaulting to float at peak sunlight time, even though the batteries are at 50%. After much discussion with Jaboni, I am throwing in the towel and moving on. This is why I am doing two seperate systems. The Jaboni works fine in factory configuration, so there is no point in throwing it away.
With the Victron 250/100 controller I can now add a lot more panels than the Jaboni was supposed to be able to do.
As for the strings of three, that is what I said I was going to do. two strings of three, with controller capability of one more string of three.
I cannot combine the Jaboni panel with the Aims panels other than what I already tried which was two Aims 120 watt panels in series paralelled with the Jaboni. Expanding beyond that as one system just doesn't work when I run the numbers

Runing two controllers together with seperate arrays has some advantages. I would not have done it this way if starting from scatch, but this should work very well
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Or use a combiner box on the roofโ€ฆone wire.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

StirCrazy
Moderator
Moderator
Huntindog wrote:
Plans are well underway to expand the Solar on my 398M.
I have 4 more Aims 120 watt panels to add to the two I already have.
The plan is to return the Jaboni back to it's factory stock configuration, of one 300 watt panel as it works properly like that. I will run the 6 Aims 120 watt panels as a seperate system. Two series strings of 3 panels, with an easy option of being able to add one more string of three.
I have the Victron 250/100 controller for the new Aims array. This system would total 1020 watts expandable to 1380 watts with ease.

I have one question. The easiest way to run the wiring from the roof is to use the sattelite dish wiring channel. I already have the coaxial cable for the dish and the control cable running thru it. There are two empty slots in the roof plate for the dish. I am considering just running the new array wires thru these slots terminating them on the roof with short cables capped with MC4 connectors. Which would then have 2 into 1 MC4 connectors plugged in, and the two Aims strings plugged into those. My question is on the roof penetration method. Conventional method is to use a gland. That would up the difficulty level a lot. (new hole in roof, likely a different location etc) I can not see any downsides to my proposed method.

What are the thoughts on this?


if there is already two pannels installed, I would just add the 4 so that you have two runs of 3 in series. you may be looking at a different controler than what you presently have to do it, but you wouldnt be running any more cables from the roof down.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wire in series and you only have to deal with one wire.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Huntindog
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Huntingdog,

I'd be tempted to use the fridge chimney. Sounds like an excellent upgrade to me.
The fridge is in a slide.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Huntingdog,

I'd be tempted to use the fridge chimney. Sounds like an excellent upgrade to me.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.