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Wheel bearings

getpower1
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all,

Tried searching a little bit but never any luck on my exact question.

Little background. My wife and I inherited an old travel trailer from her parents. We are wel on the way to having the roof fixed (materials are on the way), and replacement of the four original tires and the spare should be done with today. Itโ€™s a 2003 Model Aljo by Skyline. For the last five years itโ€™s been lived in on and off and basically hasnโ€™t moved. So Iโ€™m getting it so I can really use it and tow it wherever I want.

Firstly, plain and simple, is there any way to repack my old wheel bearings so that I donโ€™t damage them and can reuse them?

Secondly, wether or not I can repack the ones that are already on it, how can I tell what wheel bearings it uses? Everything seems old and I have no idea where to find that info, other than to tell you that itโ€™s a five lug axle with 14โ€ wheels. This trailer has two. GVWR is 6,xxx. Itโ€™s south of 7000 I believe, but could be wrong (at work and canโ€™t verify).

But Iโ€™d like to keep a couple extra sets of wheel bearings with me on trips for just in case. Donโ€™t want to be that guy that has to leave his trailer on the side of the road to go to an auto parts store thatโ€™s hopefully open.

Lastly, what kind of grease do you recommend I use? Just anything general lubricant fine, such as Chevron or Napa brand?

Thanks
2003 Aljo 259LT
2018 Ram 3500, SRW, 4x4, CTD, HO, Aisin
26 REPLIES 26

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
wolfe10 wrote:
Actually, a hammer and BRASS or other soft metal drift work just fine for race replacement.

Totally agree, hard steel drifts are a big no-no.

Been doing that for over 50 years and have never damaged a race or hub.
One more slight derailment, IME BRASS is a poor material to use as a drift. It's tendency to flake off, and for those flakes to find their way into the bearing, means that it's not a good choice. Soft steel works best, IMO of course.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Get,

In decades of repacking wheel bearings, I have actually replaced very few. So, the chance that you will need to replace a bearing is slim. The big killer of trailer wheel bearings is boat trailers that are used to launch the boat just after the guy gets off the highway.

Trailer bearing seem to come in two kinds.
Straight spindle - both bearings are the same number
Tapered spindle - two different bearing numbers

Either case, with the axle jacked, loosen and slide the wheel, brake drum (or journal) and all off and clean the seal. Then you can read that seal number.
Now tip the wheel so the outer bearing falls into the newspaper you laid out to catch it. Clean it and read the number.
Lay the wheel and tire over that newspaper and use something soft to push the inner bearing out. If you are very careful, you may be able to reinstall the grease seal. (This is about a 50/50 bet.)
Now you can read both bearing and the seal numbers. Write them all down someplace for next time.

You can clean both the outer races now and if they don't look bad, then take the time to clean the bearings and cages for the inner races. You will not be able to see that race as the rollers are captured to it. Take the time (remember you are getting paid 100$/hr for this job) to carefully inspect all the rollers. There is a real good chance that there is not reason to replace them.

If you are not sure how to clean and repack the inner bearing, I bet that there are a few on YouTube.

I use a synthetic grease because is does not age out.

Remember! A tapered roller bearing wants to be a little loose. It is as tight as one might set a ball bearing, it will fail in short order.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
It's called APTITUDE. And someone with no experience or aptitude can be dangerous as hell. And a public forum is absolutely awful as a means of finding out the compatibility or degree of aptitude.

He needs someone experienced looking over his shoulder. And only a fool would argue this point.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
all true guys BUT read his post,he,s never done this!. must be the heat didn,t mean to insult you.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Your way over thinking this,....repack the bearings and you good to go !

X4 !!
Bearings do not wear out unless they were running w/o grease, or as in boat trailer duty they got water inside them and pitted
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Actually, a hammer and BRASS or other soft metal drift work just fine for race replacement.

Totally agree, hard steel drifts are a big no-no.

Been doing that for over 50 years and have never damaged a race or hub.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
midnightsadie wrote:
... some people use a hammer and a punch.,,,there called back yard mechanics .
Pardon me, but I worked in the can manufacturing industry for 40 years, and removing a bearing with a hammer and driver is very common practice, and there's nothing wrong with it. "Backyard mechanic" is not necessarily a term of derision, I've known several that were better than "shop mechanics". And generally the term is "shade tree mechanic".
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
careful on the "Timkens". I bought into them once and it was a timken box and the bearings had made in China stamped on them, just saying.

So why replace the bearings if the originals show no need such as wear or peening. You may just be throwing good ones in the scrap and **** shooting new ones in there. :h

surely you tube has a bunch of videos on R&R. also i think etrailer.com may.

you also should use grease that is specked for the application.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
sounds like you,ve never changed a set of bearings? theres more to it. you have to change the steel race the bearing sits in, or you,ll ruin your new bearings. bearing and race have to match so they wear the same as time goes on. race has to be pressed out .and new pressed in. some people use a hammer and a punch.,,,there called back yard mechanics .

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
also change the grease seal on the back of the hub assemble , amd buy timken roller bearings.

fyrflie
Explorer III
Explorer III
On the bearing itself is usually a number. You should be able to use that number to cross it over to a new bearing part number.
Also check the spindle for any damage such as serious grooves or burned areas.

Others should chime in soon with more info.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Your way over thinking this,....repack the bearings and you good to go !
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.