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Which type of NON-silicone for caulking after installing window?

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
(EDIT -- as you will see below, silicone is wrong. But keep reading for other great suggestions!!)

DW and I just finished re-installing our new front window, using butyl tape. Everything went fine -- no problems.

My searches of the archives show that most folks recommend sealing with silicone caulk around the top and 5 inches on the sides, after trimming off the excess butyl. They say don't go too far down the sides with the silicone -- better to let the water drain. That makes sense to me.


So this is my question - exactly which of the many silicone caulks will do the best job?

Also, I have a caulking gun, but I am thinking that a big tube of caulk would be overkill.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations!
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."
19 REPLIES 19

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139 wrote:
After a fair amount of fumbling around on the web and the forum archives, I think I am going to go with Lexel. I just talked to one of their techs, read the product brochure carefully, did some checking of the reviews, google blah blah blah etc., and it looks promising. It dries clear (not very important to me), it remains flexible (good), it is UV resistant (very good), and it does not peel off (really good, if it is true).

I will report back in a few days, maybe in a new thread.


Please do ๐Ÿ™‚

This is of substantial interest to me. Thank you.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just use Dicor. Either self-leveling or non self-leveling as needed. I sleep better at night.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
After a fair amount of fumbling around on the web and the forum archives, I think I am going to go with Lexel. I just talked to one of their techs, read the product brochure carefully, did some checking of the reviews, google blah blah blah etc., and it looks promising. It dries clear (not very important to me), it remains flexible (good), it is UV resistant (very good), and it does not peel off (really good, if it is true).

I will report back in a few days, maybe in a new thread.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Well, I was all set to use the Kwik Seal, but the online reviews are really bad. (Most of them from contractors, and there are a lot of bad reviews, not just a few random grumps.) I will re-think.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
BFL13 wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-...

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug


It says there it is siliconized. What does that mean?


OK it means silicone is added to whatever. In this link they even call their siliconized product silicone.

http://www.tecspecialty.com/products/caulks/siliconized-caulk/?lang=English

Doug says they stuff he uses is a good product, but it seems that it must still count as silicone of some sort.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
Dave H M wrote:
What i would do also. Don't knock the GE stuff if you have not tried it. SILICON - now I feel better.
LOL. I guess I get an "E" for spelling.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-...

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug


It says there it is siliconized. What does that mean?
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
mike-s wrote:
I would give the tape a couple of days to squeeze out fully before caulking.

If the design allows a white caulk, you might consider Geocel Proflex (RV), which is well respected, and preferred by many over silicone. If you want a clear silicone, then I've always had good success with GE Silicon II Window and Door.


What i would do also. Don't knock the GE stuff if you have not tried it. SILICON - now I feel better.

However i highly recommend that you don't use it as you will sleep better that way. :W

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great tips, and really fast!! Thanks.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-...

We use this.
1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered.
2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed
3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs.
4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Never use anything with the word "silicone" on your RV. Ever.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
First of I will say that our first rig had clear silicone on the top and a few inches down on all the window frames and the entry door, but, our current rig had no sign of silicone except, on the window that had been removed for repair and reinstalled with some black goop and not the butyl tape. None of the openings leaked before they were R&R by well recommended guys.

Winnebago calls out a specific butyl tape and ours shows no sign of squeezing out like the Bounder did. I am certainly not an expert on sealing windows and doors in RVs but the first window that was repaired and the two that I had repaired now have a caulk and it oozes out and makes a mess. I am going to remove them and use the tape called out by Winnebago to seal them. I can only assume that all Winnebago's are assembled this way, am I wrong?
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

RLS7201
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had an old time RV body guy put me on to DAP 40 year ALEX PLUS, clear. I've been using it for 22 years with out a failure. Price is right, easy to find, stays flexable, don't crack and sticks. NOT FOR EPDM!

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
As you can tell, we don't use the "s" word around here much :B