โJan-09-2012 07:10 PM
โDec-11-2012 06:32 AM
โDec-10-2012 06:31 PM
โDec-10-2012 05:22 PM
โDec-10-2012 02:20 PM
โDec-10-2012 01:58 PM
โDec-10-2012 11:18 AM
โOct-25-2012 03:32 AM
JaredWPhillips wrote:
Thoroughly enjoyed this post. I feel like a child by even suggesting something after reading your wealth of knowledge and experience, but I do have a suggestion about your tank heating issue. You mentioned using the heated gutter cables, which as you said may be overkill except for extreme cold. What if you used the heated cables as the primary heat source, but also supplemented that with standard heated pipe tape? The stuff you see on water spigots and home plumbing. Wrap it around the exit/valve and back under the tank. Use it for moderate conditions but have the ability to "turn on the heat" of the gutter cables during extreme cold.
The heat tape alone probably wouldn't keep a full tank from freezing, but it should work around the valve/exit area and pipe.
โOct-24-2012 09:00 AM
โOct-03-2012 07:07 PM
wickedfun wrote:I can see where you're coming from on the pipe but in this case, the pipe is filled to the dump valve. I'm afraid that if I don't offer a bit of auxiliary heat, the pipe may freeze and split. If I could, I'd extend the insulated enclosure right out to the end of the 3" drain pipe but I have the auxiliary 2" valves that control grey water flow to the black tank and the drain outlet that need to remain operable in that space. I could replace them with cable assemblies but what would I be able to do if replacement was necessary and they were enclosed?
I'm wondering about the drain pipe, its graded and unless it is both plugged and full it should have a place to expand and not split, I thinking insulate yes, heat tape maybe not, it could be a good place to simplify.
โOct-03-2012 06:25 PM
โOct-02-2012 09:37 PM
โSep-10-2012 11:03 PM
CavemanCharlie wrote:Ya, I was eager to mount the J-pole and it is close to the service wires. I will pull the Hilton forward in the next couple of days and then, demount the J-pole. My service wires are in pretty good shape but there is always that one chance....;)
I know the picture makes it seem closer then it really is but, for safety reasons I have to add; Watch out for those overhead wires with those antennas !
โSep-10-2012 10:59 PM
MrSurly wrote:What I'm doing with the vent is a new tactic. In the last few RV's that the Old Sportsman heater has seen, it has been supplied with outside combustion air. What I hope to do is supply the combustion air AND the uptake air into the flue. This will mean a lot less air infiltration from doors and windows. Albeit, I've kind of trained myself to leave a vent cover up for a bit of fresh air.
Very interesting, and addresses a question that I had been mulling over to ask you. I was wondering how that flue was going to draft at all, given that you had successfully built a literally airtight trailer. I had missed the mention of a combustion air inlet in your build.
I quite sure I don't understand the need for or the purpose of the Tee.
As always, your work is top-notch.
Is it the plan to fully close the combustion air from the interior air?
I like your antenna builds and hope you have a handy link to the build details as I would like to replicate.
btw: yes, we're out here watching!
โSep-09-2012 06:48 AM
โSep-09-2012 06:20 AM