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Black Tank Dump Valve Cable Replacement

CaLBaR
Explorer
Explorer
This past weekend went to dump the black tank and the valve cable was really stiff. Gave it a good yank and everything drained. Went to push the valve closed and the cable connector snapped. It was rusted pretty bad.

So my question is, being a pretty handy guy. They seem very easy to replace. I haven't opened up the enclosed underbelly to confirm but from looking at replacement parts there should be 2 set screws holding the cable to the valve. Is the true for all of them? The dealer has a replacement cable for $50 and the whole valve assembly for $100. I just want to replace the cable if I can and avoid a rather nasty messy black tank valve replacement and save $50.

Anyone done just the cable replacement? Any pointers or tips? Seems really straight forward unless I'm missing something.

Thanks,
Rob
2018 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2019 RAM 3500 SRW Big Horn 4x4, 6.7 Cummins/Aisin
2007 Rockwood 8298 SS (Traded in 2018)
2009 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Crew Max 5.7L (Traded in 2019)
HP Dual Cam Sway Control
Prodigy Brake Controller
5 REPLIES 5

CaLBaR
Explorer
Explorer
HappyKayakers wrote:
Yes, it's very straight forward. Take the old one off first and measure so you get the same length replacement. I saw someone selling 72" replacement cables on eBay for $20, so $50 sounds a little high.


Yes I saw the eBay for $20 but then they want another $30 for shipping to Canada. I might as well buy it from the dealer here for the $50 and not have to wait 2 weeks to get it. Thanks for the info.
2018 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2019 RAM 3500 SRW Big Horn 4x4, 6.7 Cummins/Aisin
2007 Rockwood 8298 SS (Traded in 2018)
2009 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Crew Max 5.7L (Traded in 2019)
HP Dual Cam Sway Control
Prodigy Brake Controller

CaLBaR
Explorer
Explorer
camperforlife wrote:
When you cut the underbelly cut a three sided flap especially if it is coroplast. When closing up the belly, you can punch a couple holes at the loose end of the coroplast and secure it shut with zip ties before you seal the seams with Gorilla tape.

Get the shortest cable as possible to suit your needs. If the cable is too long make a wide arc so it won't kink and anchor it in twice as many places as you think is needed. You will see that the manufacturer just hooked up the cable, kind of anchored it and closed things up.

Good luck!


Thanks sounds just like what I was thinking. Seems easy enough.
2018 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2019 RAM 3500 SRW Big Horn 4x4, 6.7 Cummins/Aisin
2007 Rockwood 8298 SS (Traded in 2018)
2009 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Crew Max 5.7L (Traded in 2019)
HP Dual Cam Sway Control
Prodigy Brake Controller

HappyKayakers
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, it's very straight forward. Take the old one off first and measure so you get the same length replacement. I saw someone selling 72" replacement cables on eBay for $20, so $50 sounds a little high.
Joe, Mary and Dakota, the wacko cat
Fulltiming since 2006
2006 Dodge 3500 QC CTD SRW Jacobs Exhaust brake
2017 Open Range 3X388RKS, side porch

camperforlife
Explorer
Explorer
When you cut the underbelly cut a three sided flap especially if it is coroplast. When closing up the belly, you can punch a couple holes at the loose end of the coroplast and secure it shut with zip ties before you seal the seams with Gorilla tape.

Get the shortest cable as possible to suit your needs. If the cable is too long make a wide arc so it won't kink and anchor it in twice as many places as you think is needed. You will see that the manufacturer just hooked up the cable, kind of anchored it and closed things up.

Good luck!

Doug33
Explorer
Explorer
Cable? I thought the valves were mechanical push/pull.
2014 Keystone Bullet 281BHS
2002 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L 4x4
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