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Dometic Refrig

Joker997
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2007 Starcraft Antigua, that had the Dometic fridge recall a couple of years ago.

I had the work done, and was nearly 7 months before I used the trailer again. Fridge is fine.

My issue is the powered slide out. It's not working, and nothing I can find is the issue. As far as I can see the wires are attached to the switch, nothing is off the motor under the futon.

I was told it's possible the hot wire to the switch might have been removed from the power source during the recall work on the fridge. Anyone else have this issue?

Solutions? It's been 2+ years since the work was done, so I doubt the dealer will even touch it.

I know I can manually extend it, but it's nice to have the motor do the work.

Thanks
4 REPLIES 4

ScenicView
Explorer
Explorer
Like Old Biscuit said, power comes directly from the batt. Campers in those years did not have a main 30A battery fuse like most new campers do. Corrosion can be a factor sometimes, either in connections or in the gear motor itself. We've even seen corrosion on brand new campers' motors. Try testing for power @ the motor first.

Joker997
Explorer
Explorer
OK. I'll do some checking on it today if I can, raining here. In the past the fuses at the electrical center were fine, I will see if I can get a volt meter to show at the switch first.
I'll post my findings.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
The 12V Power for your fridge comes from the DC distribution center.....fused

The 12V power for your slide out comes directly from your battery.
Check at battery for power wire to slide out and see if it has an in-line fuse that is blown OR a automotive type circuit breaker (looks like a small box with wires on two studs)...see if it has a small reset button on side.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
You need to get a volt meter and check for voltage at the motor when someone activates the switch.
If no voltage present then check for 12V at the back of the switch.
If present then check for voltage at the other end of the switch when its depressed.
If there's no voltage anywhere then I would try to trace the feed wire (for the switch) back to the converter or in some cases, directly to the battery.
This all assumes the slide is electric and not hydraulic. If hyd then check the switch and the wiring at the pump for voltage and perform the same tracing back to its power source.