Dometic rm2601 Refrigerator. No Orange Light on ELEC

[independent_TJ]

This is my first Recreational Vehicle: 1989 Fleetwood Prowler 28ft 26g. I have all manuals that the original owner kept, plus a few extra tech sheets/etc from the internet...

NOTE: All testing is on "Shore Power" and has a charged 12v battery connected on the tongue of the trailer.
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When I first tested the Dometic LP/Elec refrigerator, I did not get the "Lamp E" to flicker ORANGE at ALL when choosing "Gas" or "Elec". The inside illumation bulb is blown, so I did not have confirmation of 12v by verifying the inside light turning on...

After some internet searching, I learned that I should check the "3 fuses on the control board" from the outside access panel. When I removed all covering from the back of the refrigerator, I do NOT see a control board of any kind...???

However, I did remember removing a 12v fuse from the tongue wiring harness when we connected to the trailer to bring it home after purchase. I came back 2 days later, put that fuse in, plugged in shore power AC,....and now I was able to see the Lamp flicker in the "GAS" position. In "GAS" position, I followed directions to hold the ignitor button, and the light went out. Soon after, I heard the refrigerator begin to make sounds of "circulation" bubbling/etc. However, I was not able to leave it running on gas because I had other work to be done. So I switched to "ELEC", ...and the orange light NEVER FLICKERED.

--------------------------My Questions----------------------
1) For "GAS" operation, does "shore AC power" provide the 12v? Or do I absolutely NEED the 12v battery (and fuse) I added later? Please clarify so I will know if the tongue fuse is providing the 12v that now allows "GAS" operation to work?????

2) Any idea why my refrigerator does not have a "control board with fuses" on the rear (from the access panel)? Please note, that I have looked for the plastic cover that indicated a control board is there.

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Due to my small yard, my new hobby-toy is parked at a friend's house and I have limited time each week to go work on it. I look forward to going back soon to pay more attention to the refrigerator. Unfortunately, I was overloaded last time with the task of giving ALL appliances a "quick inspection." Any advice for fast troubleshooting or what I am overlooking or just do not know....please let me know. For example, after I left, I then realized that I should have removed the 12v tongue fuse to test the "GAS" operation and determine if "GAS" operation is "dependent on 12v battery EVEN ON shore power AC".... Please overload me with your knowledge?? 😄

--TJ

[independent_TJ]

I have spent much time looking over the schematics, checking all fuses (plus 1 I forgot), looking for non-existant conttol boards I had read about, following the manual but getting no "lights or sounds of electric operation", and was quite surprised that the "gas operation" started working on the trip that I re-installed the tongue-battery fuse.. (coincidence?). Sorry but I was getting so confused by the above cirumstances. 😮 Posting here got me some clarification before I pulled more hair out...lol.
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Next trip, I will remove the tongue fuse to see if "gas operation" is now working on the converter's 12v.....and hopefully have the bedroom fusebox remounted so I can leave ttheshore AC on for testing the "elec" refrigerator function after a waiting period of 8-12 hours. (As a rookie, I was expecting electric operation to make noise of some sort).

[Old-Biscuit]

independent_TJ wrote:
Thank you both for clarifying:
1) The indicator light does NOT indicate that "ELEC" is operating...and... When on 'Electric' there is NO Indication ---you just have to wait 8-12 hrs upon start up to have cooling (you can check electric element ---hot)
2) There is no control board on the RM2601. Correct...so no electronics needing DC

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When on shore power AC, is it required to have a 12v battery on the tongue? (I thought the AC/DC converter would provide the 12v to this appliance? All DC fuses in bedroom fuse panel are good, and so far, all other DC electronics are working without problems). 12V DC SHOULD be supplied by converter via DC Fuse Panel when connected to 120V AC power source.
No 120V AC power source then trailer Battery supplies the 12V DC via DC Fuse panel
Converter also CHARGES battery and MAY need battery connected/fuse to use as a 'load'---depends on WHICH converter you have

What is powered by the fused line from the 12v battery? Fuse DC to fridge is for interior light and reignighter DC power IF you are referring to in-line fuse on battery POS cable on trailer tongue THAT is so battery can supply DC to trailer if no 120V AC and so Converter can charge battery when on 120V AC)

Thanks in advance!! I am always rushing to do as much as I can when I have time to go work on the cleaning, restoration, and renovation (bedroom needs a new floor)....so that leaves little time for manually tracing wires. 😞

Open LINK provided earlier and print it out....it's a manual!

And here is a PARTS listing for fridge
RM 2601 parts


By the way.....being so rushed that you don't take time to learn is not conducive to getting help
Tracing systems is the BEST way to understand/learn what/how/why.

Afterwards..then ask for help :B

[independent_TJ]

Thank you both for clarifying:
1) The indicator light does NOT indicate that "ELEC" is operating...and...
2) There is no control board on the RM2601.

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When on shore power AC, is it required to have a 12v battery on the tongue? (I thought the AC/DC converter would provide the 12v to this appliance? All DC fuses in bedroom fuse panel are good, and so far, all other DC electronics are working without problems).

What is powered by the fused line from the 12v battery?

Thanks in advance!! I am always rushing to do as much as I can when I have time to go work on the cleaning, restoration, and renovation (bedroom needs a new floor)....so that leaves little time for manually tracing wires. 😞

[Old-Biscuit]

Models with an interior light and a automatic reigniter need 12V DC...for those items.

DC terminal block with 12V DC power (either from battery OR from converter when on 120V AC Shore Power----via DC Fuse Panel)

No control module/circuit board etc cause your fridge does not uses any electronics

Gas is lit via reigniter....Lamp E ON then goes out when flame lights

Electric....no Lamp E


More Info thanks to Chris Bryant

[Chris_Bryant]

The RM2601 is a non-electronic refrigerator- the only indicator is the small neon lamp which flashes while lighting it on LP- on electric, there is no indicator. Just turn the knob to electric, set the thermostat, and wait 8-12 hours.