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Electric extension cord - what kind?

qbakawnik
Explorer
Explorer
Hi, Does anybody knows what kind of extension cord I should buy (I found one in Lowes: Basic Connections 100-ft 10-Amp 16-Gauge Orange Outdoor Extension Cord for $17, but I am not sure about the amperage)? I need to connect my TT, and the electric outlet is about 90 feet away.
Thanks,
Kuba
37 REPLIES 37

qbakawnik
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all! I've learned a lot! I got 2x 50ft and 1 extra 25ft. All of them 10/3.

Kuba

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
I also have the little voltage meter that RoyB has listed in his post. I keep it plugged into a outlet near my bed and I keep a eye on it.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Kuba,

The 33 and 67 foot solution is better than two 50 foot cords. If you will be doing this in winter time get cable that is designed to remain flexible in freezing temperatures.

30 amp male and female ends are available on Amazon.

I do a lot of urban and rural boondocking with access to power. I have modified my RV so that I can "break out" the water heater, and also the converter.

In low voltage situations I run the converter on shore power and run the rest of the RV from the inverter. So I have 3 shore power solutions, the OEM 30 amp, a 20 amp, and a 15 amp.

This means I care LOTS of cords, as especially in rural situations I can sometimes run three shore power cords.

I carry a 100, 67, 33, 25 and 20 foot #10. I also carry a 100 foot #12.

I use the shortest possible cord length.

I carry dog bone adapters.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would not purchase 2x 50' if your primary purpose is 90'.
Get the full 100'.

Also you need to know how to properly coil a long cord to avoid twisting or get a reel.

IPegasus
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a 10/3 extension cord and used the 30/20 round adapter. I found that it was fine until the air conditioner was on. The cable itself was cool to the touch but the connectors would get very warm. As others have said, don't try and run everything at the same time.
2015 Chevrolet 2500HD CC LTZ 4x4 Duramax
Reese DC HP, Husky Brute 4500
1999 Wilderness GL 27F

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
The problem you may run into is that you won't know what the voltage is where you are plugging into ahead of time. If it's low where you plug in, it will be lower inside your TT (amount depending on wire gauge, length and current draw). If a receptacle looks questionable, I'd even consider finding another one nearby if possible. Plugging into a completely unknown source can carry more risk, especially when "around the back" of a building and it's not normally used for RVs. See "No Shock Zone" info. below. I would only use a dogbone style adapter at the end of our cord in case it ever overheated. That way, you'd hopefully only lose the adapter.

I would go for the two #10 extension cords. Available online for about $50-60. Having two x 50' cords is a good compromise and will give you a spare for when you may be in a campground and your 25' shore power cord isn't long enough. Always keep your cords lengths to the minimum possible.

You won't be able to run much additional on a 20 amp circuit when the AC is running. If the voltage drops, an AC unit will draw more current and can cause a breaker to trip. If that happens, suspect low voltage as the cause.

As above, get and use a voltmeter when you plug into a new location and monitor it in case it drops. I would get a plug in digital multi-meter (cheap at HF) as it will allow you to check a receptacle before plugging in (L-N, L-G & N-G). It's good that you have a "surge protector" as that will protect you against low voltage automatically. If you don't have a readout display for your EMS, a plugin voltage monitor may help.

When plugging into unknown receptacles, there's always the risk of an improperly wired receptacle. I don't what to make things seem complicated, but there is some info. here at No Shock Zone - hot skin and No Shock Zone - "little shocks". You may want to get a non-contact voltage tester. There is also some info. on RV extension cords on the same website: RV cords

Always turn the power off before plugging into a receptacle. Easy to do at a campground, but at the schools, you'll need to shut off the main 30 amp breaker in your converter panel. If you don't, the inrush current of the converter will cause pitting on the metal blades of plugs and inside receptacles ("connectors" at end of a cord). Pitting will eventually lead to overheating of the metal contacts which causes an eventual meltdown. Ensure that your plug blades are always kept clean. Plugging multiple cords together increases the possibility of more resistance from the connections.

qbakawnik
Explorer
Explorer
Good morning, Thanks again for your replies. I am a professional musician, but after from all your posts, I might become an electrician as well! :))
I will either buy an 30AMP extension cord and use an adapter + 20Amp 10/3 cord or just 2x 50ft 10/3 cords. I like the idea of using 2x 50ft cords even if it will cost a little bit more. This is very important to me and it will be still cheaper (and lighter) than any power generator. And yes, of course, I have a power surge protector and always use it.
Thanks!
Kuba

bhh
Explorer
Explorer
Years ago, I got a 100' 10/3 line. I cut it into 33 and 67 foot sections and use the shorter one that fits the distance.

Distance is another determining factor. If you're 15' from the outlet and use a 90' cord, it's like being 90' from the outlet.

voltage drop calculator

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Why not just buy a long RV extension cord and then put your adaptor right on the end? Then buy a 50 foot 10-3 regular cord for those few other times.

Oh, and as long as were on the subject of cords. I have a surge protector I plug my cord into too keep power surges from burning out all the circuit boards in my camper. Do a search on this site and you will get lots of information about them.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Jframpey wrote:
I would buy 2 50' cords... No need to have all of that cord strung out if not needed. And it'll cut down on voltage loss when you don't need the whole 100'.


I agree. You may not need the whole 100 foot much of the time so why get the voltage loss and have to drag the whole thing out all the time.

100 foot cords are always such a tangled mess that you only get 50 foot of useable cord anyway unless you want to spend 20 minutes each time you bring them out just untangling them.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
When I was getting setup I happened on to two 50-foot (10/3) Construction Grade Heavy Duty "YELLOW" Extension cords at a YARD SALE... Best $25 (for both) I have spent in a long time...


Been running two trailer 50-foot drops on separate circuit breakers from the house/garage since 2009... No problems with heat being generated at the connections...

Also be sure you use the RV30A-15A LONG DOGBONE type adapters. The short round ones will generate heat on you right away and melt down your connections...


DO NOT USE THESE SMALL type RV30A-15A Adapters


This is what your DON'T want to happen

As expensive as those 10/3 extension cords are going to be no sense melting down the connections on them as well as your shore power plug...

We also use a RV120VAC PLUG-IN VOLTMETER inside the trailer in a good spot so it can viewed from time to time. This has the SAFE ZONE colored in a GREEN SCALE. If we see the AC LINE VOLTAGE outside the safe zone limits we will not turn on the air conditioner etc...

All photos from GOOGLE IMAGES

We use our setup when camping on the road as well... Have had many times the 15/20AMP Service has saved the day for us. Great for spending the night with the kids too. Just plug into their garage and sleep in the trailer.

A great PLAN B to have...

Roy ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
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uscgcolletti
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a 100' 10/3 cord at Lowes for $90.
I even ran the A/C for my kids when they camped out in the back yard with friends.

oughtsix
Explorer
Explorer
A 15 amp outlet will go to a 15 amp breaker in the fuse box so you will be fine running a 20amp rated extension cord with a 15 amp adapter on it. If you draw more than 15 amps for any amount of time the 15 amp breaker in the breaker box will pop. So if you do not have access to the breaker box (Like at a school) be careful to not draw too much juice... like running a microwave and air conditioner. You will not be in any danger but the breaker will pop and you will not be able to reset it if you do not have access to it and you will not have any electricity for th rest of the night. You better plan for this eventuality as you will most likely pop an inacessible breaker atleast once.

If you are lucky and find a 20 amp outlet just remove the 15 amp adapter and you will be fine.

If you find a 30 amp outlet DO NOT use an adapter to run your 20 amp extension cord on a 30 amp circuit!!!! The 20 amp extension cord will heat up very hot, melt the insulation and start a fire!

If you buy a 30 amp rated extension cord you will be ready for any outlet you find, 15 amp, 20 amp or 30 amp with the appropriate adapter.
2006 Duramax Crew Cab Long Bed pickup.
2007 Coachman Captiva 265EX trailer.

qbakawnik
Explorer
Explorer
Great idea Jframpey. Thanks
And thanks to everybody for all replies. ๐Ÿ˜‰