electrical outlets not working on battery power

[rocelp]

I have a viking tent trailer. Is this normal for battery power only? Planning on buying solar or generator for dry camping to charge cell phones, laptop, etc. Outlets do work when shoreline is hooked up. Am i missing something at converter panel?

[rocelp]

red31 wrote:
Reverse Battery Protection fuse - doesn't have a cute LED.
This fuse blows when the battery is connected backward
It is the 5th or bottom fuse

http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/Images/Products/OtherDocs/5-3.pdf

Charges @ 13.6v, not high enough for my 12v 'deep cycle'

Hi Bryan,
You are dead on with the fuse. Replaced it and it is now working. Thanks for the pdf link.

[rocelp]

RoyB wrote:
AS you notice if you want to be successful you have to do some planning and beefing up of systems and batteries.

Once you get setup it is a very pleasant way of camping. We only run our 2KW Honda generator for about three hours each morning and can run all the 120VAC items we want to run from a 600W PSW Inverter. We also run all of the 12VDC items we want to run which are direct connected to the battery bank. Our Battery bank is 255AHs capacity and it will drop down to around 12.0VDC by 8AM the next morning. This is when we want to connect the trailer 30A shore power cable to the 2KW Honda Generator 120VAC receptacle using the proper RV30A-15A long adapter (WALMART) and this allows the on-board converter/charger unit to re-charge our battery bank. Since we are using a smart-mode technology converter/charger this will re-charge our 255AH battery bank back to to its 90% charge state in as little as three hours of generator run time.

Where we camp here on the East side of the US most camp grounds and Natl Parks have generator run time restrictions in place and only a few hours during the day is allowed to run the generator. Never after 8PM at night...

OUr game plan was to decide what we wanted to have with us and beef-up the battery bank and system to do this in the one day/night run off the batteries and then re-charge back up to 90% charge state the next morning so we can do this all over again the next day/night battery run... This method does not do any harm to our batteries at all. However, we can only do this 50% to 90% charge state cycle for about 12-14 days when we must re-charge the batteries to their full 100% charge state which takes around 12-13 hours of generator run time to complete the charge cycle. Since we can never run the generators this long here on the East side of the US this is usually when we head for the house haha.. Watching the battery voltage drop from inside the trailer really helps us out keeping up with our approximate battery bank charge state.

Just passing along how we manage our batteries when camping off the power grid...

Roy Ken

Hi Roy Ken,
I have finally decided to buy a Yamaha generator 2000 (the most quiet so we don't get any evil stares), to power up the trailer. We only go dry camping about once a year, and I had to choose the most economical option. Since my wiring and technical skills are almost nil, this is my best option. Going to the dealer would have cost me another $500, with the solar option. I do understand that my window of charging up is limited. I will just have to do with what I have. Thanks for the input.

[red31]

Reverse Battery Protection fuse - doesn't have a cute LED.
This fuse blows when the battery is connected backward
It is the 5th or bottom fuse

http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/Images/Products/OtherDocs/5-3.pdf

Charges @ 13.6v, not high enough for my 12v 'deep cycle'

[teejaywhy]

Will want to connect:
cell phones OK
ipods OK
ipad OK
curling iron NOPE
laptop OK
keurig coffeemaker NOPE
and if possible small microwave, haha. NOPE

Use propane to heat stuff (coffee etc).

You can actually avoid the inverter by using DC Car chargers for the phones, iPad, laptop etc.

As for the curling iron... Hey! You're CAMPING!!
:B

[RoyB]

AS you notice if you want to be successful you have to do some planning and beefing up of systems and batteries.

Once you get setup it is a very pleasant way of camping. We only run our 2KW Honda generator for about three hours each morning and can run all the 120VAC items we want to run from a 600W PSW Inverter. We also run all of the 12VDC items we want to run which are direct connected to the battery bank. Our Battery bank is 255AHs capacity and it will drop down to around 12.0VDC by 8AM the next morning. This is when we want to connect the trailer 30A shore power cable to the 2KW Honda Generator 120VAC receptacle using the proper RV30A-15A long adapter (WALMART) and this allows the on-board converter/charger unit to re-charge our battery bank. Since we are using a smart-mode technology converter/charger this will re-charge our 255AH battery bank back to to its 90% charge state in as little as three hours of generator run time.

Where we camp here on the East side of the US most camp grounds and Natl Parks have generator run time restrictions in place and only a few hours during the day is allowed to run the generator. Never after 8PM at night...

OUr game plan was to decide what we wanted to have with us and beef-up the battery bank and system to do this in the one day/night run off the batteries and then re-charge back up to 90% charge state the next morning so we can do this all over again the next day/night battery run... This method does not do any harm to our batteries at all. However, we can only do this 50% to 90% charge state cycle for about 12-14 days when we must re-charge the batteries to their full 100% charge state which takes around 12-13 hours of generator run time to complete the charge cycle. Since we can never run the generators this long here on the East side of the US this is usually when we head for the house haha.. Watching the battery voltage drop from inside the trailer really helps us out keeping up with our approximate battery bank charge state.

Just passing along how we manage our batteries when camping off the power grid...

Roy Ken

[time2roll]

Battery should not run down when plugged in. The WFCO is either dying or dead. WFCO should hold 13.6 volts on the battery at all times. I would replace with a different brand. Go with IOTA, Progressive Dynamics or Powermaster. 30 to 35 amps is fine unless you go with more than two batteries. www.bestconverter.com

2000w inverter is huge power from a battery. You really need 400+ amp hours to run this size inverter in a practical manner.

I power my tv, dvd, laptop and charge small items with a Go Power 300w sine wave inverter.

I mounted the inverter behind the fuse-breaker panel. 12v connects to the main battery feed to the panel. 120v is wired into the entertainment area circuit with an automatic transfer switch. The wiring is very straight forward if you have done any home wiring before. The Go Power 300w has a provision for a remote power switch so with the touch of a button I have instant power.

GP 300w SW $172

Xantrex 15 amp switch $49

So all in maybe $250-$300 for self install.

[hmknightnc]

rocelp wrote:
70 amp/hr
If I get the 2000 watt inverter, how much wattage in solar?

Hi rocelp and welcome to the forum. Glad your eager and asking questions to figure out to do before you drop a bunch of cash on something that isn't going to work.

You need to slow down a little bit and evaluate how and what you are trying to do. You are not going to run a 2000w inverter from a 70AH battery bank for more than few seconds at any kind of load. A 2000w inverter is only really needed if you are planning on running a microwave from it which is going to require a large battery bank (like 4 6v batteries at a combined 450 AH and then it will only do it for a few minutes)

Everybodies systems are different to meet different needs so there is no generic specific right answer that works no matter what. However IMHO a good starting point goes something like this for any extended boondocking/drycamping events
- 2 6v Golf Cart Batteries, about 225 AHs
- a good quality 1000w to 2000w generator. This can power your converter for charging the battery bank and running the Microwave, if you want AirCond then you need 4000w generator
- a good quality converter (35 amp model if using 1000W generator, 50 or 60 amp model if using 2000w generator)
- If you don't like running the generator just to charge batteries or want to limit generator to high power 110v systems then use a solar system to charge batteries. A good starting point is approximately the same wattage solar as AH battey bank and then adjust up as needed based on experience (I started with 125 watt solar and have moved to 265 watt solar with dual 6volts)
- A 300 watt PSW inverter will provide the power you need for TV, laptops and charging cellphones&etc (I actually have a 600W inverter with remote control and can power several TVs and laptops at the same time)

So based on your description and it is my interrupation only, you need the following as a starting point:
- 35 Amp PD converter with charge wizard
- Honde EU1000
- Dual 6volt battery bank
- 300watt PSW inverter
- 200 Watts solar

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I would not recommend a 2000 watt inverter be run from just 70 amp-hours of battery bank. Try these sites:

http://rvroadtrip.us/library/12v_system.php

http://rvroadtrip.us/library/solar_install.php

[rocelp]

70 amp/hr
If I get the 2000 watt inverter, how much wattage in solar?

[pianotuna]

Hi rocelp,

How big is the battery bank in amp-hours?

Solar is about $3 per watt for a DIY install. The kits are almost always outrageously expensive. If you wish, you can just build and use a portable frame. Personally I don't think that is a good idea.

The Keurig is going to want pure sine wave and at least 1200 watts. Best converters has a 2000 watt inverter for $355.00

Prowatt

[rocelp]

Hi pianotuna,
Will want to connect cell phones, ipods, ipad, curling iron, laptop, keurig coffeemaker, and if possible small microwave, haha.
Also, there is a seller locally on craigslist for a 200watt portable zampsolar. It retails for $900 plus tax but she is selling for $700. I think it's too much power. But the 100 watt kits are selling for around $500. I know you said that the portables are a lot more expensive than wired kits. But if we are sitting on a campsite with a lot of trees, wouldn't it be harder to get sunlight? I would probably end up paying for the install anyway and that would even out the cost. I admit I am a dummy when it comes to wiring electrical stuff. I could probably ask my friends at work (maintenance dept.) and see if they can help me. The wife also mentioned about theft on the portables, and we would probably lock it up.
As far as the converter, it could be a loose ground issue.

[pianotuna]

Hi rocelp,

Installing an inverter is pretty low tech. The dealer will want his $90 per hour, and may do a poor job. Inverter install is DIY at its easiest.

You do need to decide how many watts of inverter you wish to have available to run devices.

[rocelp]

ok, will check it out. this is good to know, so next time when we have shoreline, we won't need the extra power options. will also go to an rv service dealer to see how much an inverter install will cost. thanks, pianotuna!

[pianotuna]

Hi,

There are fuses where the charging cable leaves the converter. They may have failed.