First Post - about electrical system of course

[ER_Alaska]

I've been looking all over the web and this site for the answer to my question, but just can't seem to find it. Lots of helpful people on this forum, so maybe you can help. Thanks in advance.

I've been out twice in my new-to-me 2004 23.5-foot R Vision Trail-Lite. After returning home one weekend and after having had the trailer plugged in to my house for a couple of days I pushed the button on the control panel that lets you check the battery condition. It showed 1 out of 4 lights. The lights in the trailer were dim, and the water pump ran slowly. Turns out the battery was very low and after having it checked out it turns out a cell was dead. What I don't understand is this - with the trailer plugged in and a low battery connected, why were the lights dim? And when I removed the battery and kept the trailer plugged in, the lights were bright (and the control panel showed 4/4 lights lit)? When the trailer is plugged in and it (converter I assume) detects that a battery is present, does the power for 12V DC for lights, etc. come from the battery only, or does it come from the house or generator via the converter? If power comes from the battery only when the trailer is plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, then could you draw amps from the battery faster than the converter charges the battery? Or at least draw amps from the battery fast enough that it takes longer for the converter to bring up the charge on the battery.

[ER_Alaska]

I did some more research last night and found that the converter I have is rated for either 50 or 55 amps (I forgot which of those is the correct number). I have a Honda EU2000i, so looks like I may have some flexibility regarding what size converter I could purchase.

[tenbear]

Your 30A Parallax converter puts out a fairly constant 13.8v to charge the battery and power the RV. The battery however will only accept a limited current at that voltage, probably less than 10A, so the remainder is available for lights etc. Of course a defective battery can draw much more current.

The PD converter on the other hand starts at 14.4v then reduces the voltage as the battery charges. Much faster charging and easier on the battery. I replaced my Parallax with the PD 9260 and increased the battery to power panel wire size from #8 to #4 to take full advantage of the increased charging power.

Depending on the generator you bought you may want a smaller converter. The 9260 is too much for a 900 watt Honda 1000.

[gmw_photos]

I didn't realize the parallax had a rep for being so "hot". In that case, I change my above suggestion about keeping the old converter with the new battery. Sounds like it's time for a upgrade to a more modern/better converter.

[Peg_Leg]

I had a 55 amp Parallax. Thank goodness it went south so I had to replace it. With the Parallax I had to unplug here at home after a day or two to recharge the battery. I'd then disconnect at the battery switch to eliminate parasitic draws. Check the water level at least once a month.

I got the PD9260 (PD-Progressive Dynamics, 92-9200 sires, 60-60 amps) as a replacement, cost under $175 and worth every penny. Simple install if it hadn't been for a brace behind the box. I've added water to the batteries 3 times in the last yr never down to the plates. It's been plugged in 95% of time since Christmas, before that I was constantly checking to see how the PD was working.

[ER_Alaska]

That's good to know. Definitely different than having a battery in a truck that doesn't drain very fast. On the battery terminal there is a knob that can be turned counterclockwise to disconnect the battery. That might be a disconnect switch of sorts that a previous owner probably put on. What I'll do is keep the trailer plugged into the house with the battery disconnected, then a day before we take out the TT I can re-connect the battery to let the converter charge it up.

[westend]

The Parallax 7300 has been posted about on this Forum as delivering a float voltage that will boil out a battery. If you decide to keep using it with a single battery, watch the fluid levels in the battery. Don't plug in and power the converter 24/7 for days, inevitably, you will forget and your new battery will be toast.

I would suggest to replace the Parallax with a Progressive Dynamics converter, install a second battery (there is always room, somehow), and to install a battery disconnect switch.

Don't know if you're aware of this but newer TT's have alarms, circuit boards, memory hold functions that are powered 24/7 by the battery. These parasitic draws will empty even the best battery within a week if the battery is left connected. You won't be alone with this situation, nearly all TT's come built like this and the remedy would be a disconnect switch mounted close to the battery. Mfg's are too cheap to put them in.

[ER_Alaska]

Picked up a Costco deep cycle marine 85 amp hours battery today. Only $75 so I'll give it a whirl.

[gmw_photos]

ER Alaska wrote:
According to the literature that came with the TT, I have a Parallax 7300 Series converter. Not knowing if the following offers any useful information, the literature says that the converter input can't be any more than 30 amp, that the converter may (or may not)have an optional timer feature which is designed to lower the converter output voltage to approx. 13.5 volts 13 hours after the 120-volt shoreline power has been applied. Apparently it starts out at 14 volts initially and then drops to keep from overcharging the battery if I have this option. With the battery out and the TT plugged in, I measured 13.75 volts at the battery cables. Don't know if that tells you anything. Is this a decent converter?

My suggestion would be to put a new battery in it, and see how things work out for your use. If you find you still need improvement, then install a new, more modern design of converter.

[ER_Alaska]

According to the literature that came with the TT, I have a Parallax 7300 Series converter. Not knowing if the following offers any useful information, the literature says that the converter input can't be any more than 30 amp, that the converter may (or may not)have an optional timer feature which is designed to lower the converter output voltage to approx. 13.5 volts 13 hours after the 120-volt shoreline power has been applied. Apparently it starts out at 14 volts initially and then drops to keep from overcharging the battery if I have this option. With the battery out and the TT plugged in, I measured 13.75 volts at the battery cables. Don't know if that tells you anything. Is this a decent converter?

[Old-Biscuit]

With a new battery your converter will not have to be overloaded trying to charge a dead short (bad cell).

[ER_Alaska]

I'll post the converter type later today. That's Tonight for all of you Lower 48rs!

[gmw_photos]

ER Alaska wrote:
That makes sense to me. So if I'm plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, if at the same time I have lots of lights and other DC things on, it will take longer to charge the battery because less of the power coming from the house is able to go toward charging the battery? I have to learn quickly about managing power especially because there's room only for one battery on the TT and nothing larger than a group 24. I bought a generator to use to charge the battery when we're camping. Few places that we'll be going to here in AK have plug-ins available. Thanks.

Well, it's gets a little more involved regarding how long it will take the convertor to charge the battery. Your reasoning is basically solid that if you are using some of the converter output to run lights, then less is available to charge the battery. But, in reality, the length of time to recharge the battery is probably going to be effected to a greater extent by, shall we say the "quality" and model of the converter. A good three or four stage progressive dynamics converter is likely gonna serve you better than the cheap wyfco that I have in my camper.

And by the way, I should have said earlier, welcome to the forum !

EDIT: Roy beat me to it in the typing contest ! He refers to the "PD" brand.....that is what I was saying as well.

[RoyB]

I would check to see what converter/charger you have on your trailer. Being a 2004 model it probably has a single stage charger. If you would change the converter/charger out for a multi-stage smart mode charger it might take care of your battery better when on shore power.

Post the model number and the guys on here will recommend a good model for you to purchase. I use the PD9200 series converter/charger here...

Roy Ken

[ER_Alaska]

That makes sense to me. So if I'm plugged in and the converter is charging the battery, if at the same time I have lots of lights and other DC things on, it will take longer to charge the battery because less of the power coming from the house is able to go toward charging the battery? I have to learn quickly about managing power especially because there's room only for one battery on the TT and nothing larger than a group 24. I bought a generator to use to charge the battery when we're camping. Few places that we'll be going to here in AK have plug-ins available. Thanks.