FW Westlake axle bearing size?

[SoCalRailFan]

I want to redo my bearings and seals on my Fleetwood Westlake. Does anyone know the bearing size needed?

[bondebond]

Especially with the newness of your PUP, look at the axle tube itself. It will be a Dexter and it will have a model number.

Cross reference on Dexter's website and their parts diagram PDFs will tell you exactly the part numbers and what the sizes are for sourcing them elsewhere. It is often on the upper side of the axle tube towards the curb side. You'll have to crawl under there but it will remove the guess work.

When you say there's a zerk on the axle, do you mean on the very end of the hub, pointing straight out when you remove the black rubber seal on the end? If so, those are Dexter EZLube hubs. Just pushing grease in there is ok for occasional maintenance but you still need to break it down every so often, especially if you're not the original owner and know the history of use and maintenance. The other concern with EZLube hubs is that rear seal is only good for so long before it will allow grease to seep out the back side and coat your brakes, rendering them useless. That seal needs to be inspected every year and certainly replaced every couple of years, certainly if it has messed up the rotors and pads. When I got my newest PUP, the PO had never inspected but kept pushing grease through, which never really replaces the old grease. The pads were bad enough I tossed them and replaced. It took a good cleaning with brake cleaner to get the rotors grease free again.

When I bought replacement seals, I got 4 extras beyond the immediate need so I have them handy as needed.

[AirForceAngler]

Your best bet for replacing bearings is to look at the number on the bearins themselves. This is usually a TIMCO number and can be matched or cross referenced for replacements.

[SoCalRailFan]

I got to the trailer today and checked things out and realized I had zirk fitting on the axle. With only 7k miles on it I'm just going to lube them and be done with it. Even the tires still look brand new, but the brakes I need to check! LOL Thanks for the replies though!

[red31]

Inspect bearings and races, no need to replace good ones.

Replace double lip seal.

http://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-Trailer-Bearings/TruRyde/RG06-050.html

'08 Destinty parts book http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37743407/COLEMAN%20PARTS%20BOOK/2008/2008%20Destiny%20Parts%20boo...


'ez lube'
http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/product_flyers/E-Z-Lube_7-11.pdf

[batman99]

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Forgot to mention….

If one is replacing bearings/seals on existing axle, have a serious look at tire wear, tire condition and its leaf spring parts as well. If tires are wearing funny (which is a sign of bent axle or being over stressed), other parts are too rusty or one's "inner voice" kicks in, then seriously investigate the need for larger axle size as well. IMO, many trailers (big and small) are built with minimum axle size and minimum tire size ratings. For example, a 3,200 lbs axle under loaded PUP that weigh's 3,100 lbs. If your PUP needs more than bearings / seals maintenance, seriously consider upgrading to larger size axle as well. For example, replace existing 3,200 lbs axle with brand new 3,600 lbs axle (which is next size up) - for buffer on those double railway tracks / roads with extra deep bumps.

If wondering, I just replaced the 2 x tires/rims under my boat. They were factory ST185/80R (C rating) and after lots of research, I replaced rum/rubber with ST185/80D ("D" rating) - which gives me 300 lbs "more" strength per tire. That's 600 lbs of extra "buffer" - for those double railway tracks and extra deep bump road abuse. If one's PUP also needs new rubber, do consider replacing with "next size up" rims/rubber as well.

Another TIP: If your loaded PUPs weight is more than Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity, I'd recommend installing brakes under your attached PUP as well. In my region, trailer weight before needing brakes is 3,000 lbs. My mini-van's Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity (meaning, how much weight within its rear cago area) is 1,500 lbs. Each of my trailer's rated to pull more than 1,500 lbs NOW has brakes. By comparing BEFORE and AFTER braking power, I'm now a firm believer that braking laws in my region should be changed to 1,500+ lbs. Meaning, their comparison of before and after is a NO Contest comparison. Especially when trailer brakes are installed with STAR wiring design. Long mumblings short… If one's PUP is more than 1,500 lbs and attached TV's max cargo capacity is 1,500 lbs, then DO install brakes under the PUP as well. It's well worth it. Especially if replacing with much better axle at the same time.

Hope this helps as well..

[batman99]

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If you have a set of callipers, you can remove the bearing from the axle (spindle) and simply measure the spindle size. Another option is to remove the old bearing and seal, clean them up and take to a local store that sells trailering parts. Many of the stores will allow you to open packages and visually match the bearing (to the many different bearings / seals they have in stock).

For a good calliper, surf: - Click Here -

For pictures of spindle sizes, surf: - Click Here -

For me, I usually remove the old parts, clean them up and visit my local auto/trailer parts store for visual match.

Hope this helps…

[I_am_still_wayn]

The make and model of your RV is of little interest; the make and model of your axles is what is critical in determining bearing size.