Installing Stereo - Wiring Issue

[raden13]

Hey Everyone,

I'm looking for assistance with a power/wiring issue for a stereo I'm installing in our travel trailer. Stereo is a Kenwood DPX592BT. There was an older stereo before and the wiring I'm working with includes 2 wires for power and 4 wires for 2 speakers. The wiring diagram (partially pictured below) shows +Red for the ignition, +Yellow to the battery, black to ground. I twisted the red and yellow from the new stereo together and then connected them to the existing +Positive wire and connected the black wire to the existing -Ground. I've got 2 12V batteries powering the trailer and once I had it wired the stereo worked no issues.

Fast forward to yesterday when I plugged in the trailer's electrical to charge everything up before our trip and the stereo was making a buzzing sound. It still turned on, but the buzzing led me to believe something was wrong. I disconnected the hot wires (red, yellow and existing hot) and tried connecting the existing hot wire to the red only then the yellow only and was not able to power up the stereo. I turned a light on in the trailer and then tried connecting it like I did before (Red, yellow and existing positive) and the light got brighter, stereo buzzed and still turned on.

Unsure how to handle the wiring and would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

[raden13]

Last Update: Got the converter installed and was very easy to do. See below for a great installation video I found on YouTube. Only issue I had with installing was that the square hole in the cover no longer lined up with the square hole on the top portion of the converter. This is where the plastic locking piece inserts and allows you to secure it or open it. Fixed this with my dremmel.

Also wanted to say that I hooked up my stereo (red and yellow wires to the hot lead) and it's working just fine. No issues.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread.

YouTube: WF-8955REP Installation VideoYouTube: WF-8955REP Installation Video

[raden13]

Update: I spoke to Randy at bestconverter.com and got his recommendation on a converter. He suggested the WFCO-8945 REP. Since you guys recommended the Progressive Dynamics brand, I asked him if there was much difference between the 45 amp model (PD4645) and the one he recommended and he said no and added, "The 8945REP is more popular and considered by many easier to install". So I went with the WFCO brand and I'm installing it this weekend.

Regarding pricing: These converters aren't cheap. I wanted to order from bestconverter.com, however, after doing a quick price comparison online, I found the same model for $15 cheaper and with free shipping on RVUpgradeStore.com. Couldn't pass up a savings of $35. Also got it in 2 days! Would definitely recommend them to anyone whose looking to purchase a converter.

Hope this helps anyone else who has a similar problem in the future.

[screaminjlew]

raden13 wrote:

WA4HTZ wrote:
Westend said the Magnetek was a linear power supply with no filtering. They rely on having a good battery connected to filter out the 120 Hz. ripple on the DC voltage. If the battery is dead as Hornnumb said (and I mean VERY dead), it will not act as a filter and you get the buzzing in the stereo. Also if the battery is disconnected, either with a battery disconnect switch or a bad connection to the battery, you will get the same problem. A big clue was you said a light got brighter when you hooked up the stereo. Most of the auto stereos usually have a capacitor or two on the incoming 12v line to eliminate some of the garbage which can ride on a 12v automotive electrical system. I suspect the stereo was acting as a slight filter and raised the average voltage a bit which made the light get brighter. I would check the connections to the battery and make sure the battery switch, if you have one, is on. If everything is good with the connections, check the voltage on the battery with it disconnected. If it's really low (like 4 or 5 volts instead of 12 low), try to charge it with a modern battery charge if you have one and see what happens.

I hope this loooong explanation has help you a bit. In the end though, as others have said, you will be better off replacing the Magnetek electronics. The kit you linked to from Bestconverter looks like it would be an excellent replacement. Get the PD 4655 with the kit if you can.

Good luck and happy camping.

Ken

Ken, thanks so much for the detailed info! One stupid question. You mentioned I should get the 4655, which is the 55 Amp model. The sticker next to my electrical plug on the outside of my trailer mentions using a 120V - 35 Amp connection. Is it ok for me to replace my converter with the 4655 model, or do I need to get the 35 Amp model (4635)? You mentioned I should get the 4655, which is the 55 Amp model. The sticker next to my electrical plug on the outside of my trailer mentions using a 120V - 35 Amp connection. Is it ok for me to replace my converter with the 4655 model, or do I need to get the 35 Amp model (4635)?

Also wanted to mention, I do not have a switch for the 12V batteries. Thanks to everyone else for the input as well.

Get the 4655.... Your 120V 30 amp connection is AC (alternating current) while your 12V system is DC (direct current)Ac and Dc are completely different, the 4655 will ensure that your batteries get the proper amperage for charging while your still being able to run other 12 volt devices

[raden13]

Hornnumb2 wrote:
Was the 12v battery dead? sometimes you will get some humming when it is trying to charge a dead battery up.

12V batteries (I have 2) were not dead. Appreciate the info though.

[raden13]

WA4HTZ wrote:
Westend said the Magnetek was a linear power supply with no filtering. They rely on having a good battery connected to filter out the 120 Hz. ripple on the DC voltage. If the battery is dead as Hornnumb said (and I mean VERY dead), it will not act as a filter and you get the buzzing in the stereo. Also if the battery is disconnected, either with a battery disconnect switch or a bad connection to the battery, you will get the same problem. A big clue was you said a light got brighter when you hooked up the stereo. Most of the auto stereos usually have a capacitor or two on the incoming 12v line to eliminate some of the garbage which can ride on a 12v automotive electrical system. I suspect the stereo was acting as a slight filter and raised the average voltage a bit which made the light get brighter. I would check the connections to the battery and make sure the battery switch, if you have one, is on. If everything is good with the connections, check the voltage on the battery with it disconnected. If it's really low (like 4 or 5 volts instead of 12 low), try to charge it with a modern battery charge if you have one and see what happens.

I hope this loooong explanation has help you a bit. In the end though, as others have said, you will be better off replacing the Magnetek electronics. The kit you linked to from Bestconverter looks like it would be an excellent replacement. Get the PD 4655 with the kit if you can.

Good luck and happy camping.

Ken

Ken, thanks so much for the detailed info! One stupid question. You mentioned I should get the 4655, which is the 55 Amp model. The sticker next to my electrical plug on the outside of my trailer mentions using a 120V - 35 Amp connection. Is it ok for me to replace my converter with the 4655 model, or do I need to get the 35 Amp model (4635)?

Also wanted to mention, I do not have a switch for the 12V batteries. Thanks to everyone else for the input as well.

[Byrogie]

westend wrote:

raden13 wrote:
Did some searching and I'm assuming one of these is what I need, correct?

http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-630073008300-Upgrade-Kits_c_64.html

Yes. Sizing will be on number of batteries to be charged and what amount of time you wish that to happen.
FWIW, my PD converter is 46 years old and functioning well. I can't give any better endorsement than that.

Yes, the 4645 slides right in. You also get a new 12V fuseboard.
Get the optional remote pendant. I didn't and had to bend down to hit the boost button when necessary. Worked great for the 2 years I had that trailer.

[westend]

raden13 wrote:
Did some searching and I'm assuming one of these is what I need, correct?

http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-630073008300-Upgrade-Kits_c_64.html

Yes. Sizing will be on number of batteries to be charged and what amount of time you wish that to happen.
FWIW, my PD converter is 46 years old and functioning well. I can't give any better endorsement than that.

[WA4HTZ]

Westend said the Magnetek was a linear power supply with no filtering. They rely on having a good battery connected to filter out the 120 Hz. ripple on the DC voltage. If the battery is dead as Hornnumb said (and I mean VERY dead), it will not act as a filter and you get the buzzing in the stereo. Also if the battery is disconnected, either with a battery disconnect switch or a bad connection to the battery, you will get the same problem. A big clue was you said a light got brighter when you hooked up the stereo. Most of the auto stereos usually have a capacitor or two on the incoming 12v line to eliminate some of the garbage which can ride on a 12v automotive electrical system. I suspect the stereo was acting as a slight filter and raised the average voltage a bit which made the light get brighter. I would check the connections to the battery and make sure the battery switch, if you have one, is on. If everything is good with the connections, check the voltage on the battery with it disconnected. If it's really low (like 4 or 5 volts instead of 12 low), try to charge it with a modern battery charge if you have one and see what happens.

I hope this loooong explanation has help you a bit. In the end though, as others have said, you will be better off replacing the Magnetek electronics. The kit you linked to from Bestconverter looks like it would be an excellent replacement. Get the PD 4655 with the kit if you can.

Good luck and happy camping.

Ken

[Hornnumb2]

Was the 12v battery dead? sometimes you will get some humming when it is trying to charge a dead battery up.

[raden13]

Did some searching and I'm assuming one of these is what I need, correct?

http://www.bestconverter.com/MagnetekParallax-630073008300-Upgrade-Kits_c_64.html

[fairfaxjim]

I agree that probably the converter is the source of the noise. If you or previous owner has upgraded to LED lights, try turning them all off to see if that could be a noise source.

[westend]

There are workarounds but the Magnetek is not known for it's performance. It probably only outputs 13.6 V (or similar). That's enough to boil your batteries but not enough to quickly charge them till full. The 6300 is a linear power supply without any filtering, the cause of the buzzing from your radio.

[wnjj]

You could try installing a power supply filter between the +12 and the radio power writes. Not much to lose and much cheaper than a new converter.

Like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-CSS12-Passive-Filter-Capacitor/dp/B000CEDZBA

[raden13]

I think I'll be looking into a new converter once I figure out what I need to get. Including pictures of what I have now below. For now, I found a work-around. I hooked up the stereo to a 12V power supply (plugged into one of the outlets in the trailer) and it's working just fine. Just in time for our trip this weekend. Thanks again to everyone for all the input. I appreciate it.