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LED awning lights how would you......

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ok, hopefully this afternoon I'm going to be installing my awning lights. They are 16 feet long and I will be putting them under the awning/gutter rail. I'm trying to figure out the best way to run the electrical. I can run straight 12V to the control box, but I want to keep it out of the weather. Has anyone done this, what is the best method of running the electrical? I don't want to keep hooking and unhooking them when needed. Just push the remote and turn them on.

Anyone!
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31 REPLIES 31

dwayneb236
Explorer
Explorer
I installed mine with a quick connect. I also installed a quick connect to the porch light so I could plug into the 12volt and a quick connect to the adaptor if I wanted to use shore power. I have an in issue with my 12 volt though. Most of the time it will only power about half the light string. I'm assuming I have a poor connection there but not sure. I usually just hook up the shore power and don't worry about it. it can be a pretty cool light show. And no I don't blast them at full power for all to see. Just dim them all the way down and they are very muted. Also underneath my awning so only lights up in that area when we are outside.
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APT
Explorer
Explorer
Looks great, Thom02099! Thanks for the documentation.
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Thom02099
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here's how I did mine recently, based on info I found here...



This pic shows the installation of the double sided base strip, the light strip, and the end of the light strip, near the porch light by the door.



This pic shows how I actually did the porch light itself, something that I've found missing for pics of what was actually done. I ran the line from the LED lights to the connector for the control box. The control box is the white thingy (technical term!) in the upper center. The black plug and line out the right side is where I did my splice, with enough wire to allow for error. When I did the splice, the sheath revealed a white wire and a black wire inside. Using the 1156/1141 adaptor I ordered through Amazon, I simply connected the black to black wires, and the red to white wires, using wire screw nuts.



The end result. And it worked the first time! For me, that's quite the accomplishment! I have no need for the porch light now, it's wired in to the switch just inside the door and it will now work whether I have an electric site, running off the battery, or running off the TV. I took my time in doing it, took probably 45 minutes start to finish.
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ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
mine was easy. the factory outside flood came in behind the microwave. pulled out the microwave, tapped into the 12v going to the existing light, put two spst switches above the microwave, on turns on the exisiting light, one the leds. ran a 12v run then through the kitchen cabinet and drilled a small hole at the end of the led strip into the cabinet and tappped into the 12V wire I had run.

Now the main outside switch as you walk into the trailer turns on the whichever I had selected on the switches above the microwave.

If you wanted either the existing or the LED, or say LED always and wanted to choose the existing as a second choice a SPDT switch would do that as well.
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dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you have an ohm meter you can prove the plug for the module and the end of he wire. Figure out which one is the middle (this is he one that's usually pos.) then you know. And as was said, there is a small diagram on the light module that will let you know which part of the connector is pos. and neg.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

danimal53
Explorer
Explorer
That was my concern, if i would break something by doing it wrong. If it just doesn't work, then i can switch wires if needed, 50/50 chance I'm doing a little extra work. Thanks for the tips!
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westend
Explorer
Explorer
If your light kit has a plug where the controller connects to the light string, typical phase is positive (+) inside the plug barrel and negative (-) on the outside. Typical color schedule for automotive DC is red = (+) and black = (-).

I don't think you can mess anything up by connecting in the wrong phase. Result will be the light string doesn't illuminate. Maybe a Forum member that has done the connection to the porch light can post about getting phase correct.
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austinjenna
Explorer
Explorer
How can I tell which wire from the light kit goes to black on the adapter, and which goes to red?


I would simply hook up the wires one way, plug it into the porch light, turn it on, turn on the LED's and see if it lights, if not then reverse the wires and try it that way.

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APT
Explorer
Explorer
You can use a volt meter to test what the AC adapter uses, which is +12V and which is ground. Do the same when you plug in the adapter you purchased.
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2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

danimal53
Explorer
Explorer
i know this is an old thread, but I'm reviving it! just got my LED kit and going to install this weekend. I'm doing the "porch light" route, with the socket adapter. Quick question:

How can I tell which wire from the light kit goes to black on the adapter, and which goes to red?

I know i don't need the AC brick, and to cut the DC part of the cord to wire to the adapter, just not sure which goes to red and which goes to black.

this is the adapter i got

Thanks!
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APT
Explorer
Explorer
Any expose material that can corrode should be sealed, just as any hole in the TT should be sealed. I used a form of caulk to both adhere to the TT and seal my LED strip light connections.
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2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Zeppe807 wrote:
dodge guy wrote:
Ok, on a few things.
Yes they are RGB.
They are the weatherproof ones.
The one strip I used has 3M adhesive on it.

I installed them yesterday. I scuffed the bottom of the awning/gutter track and used some 3M adhesion promoter to keep the strip on the channel. I did end up drilling a hole right below the gutter that goes right in the bedroom. It is behind the awning when rolled up so even sealed up it should never see moisture. I then ran the 12V from the bedroom light switch to power the LED's. I put the remote "eye" through the hole to the outside so I can use the remote outside the trailer I used some Dicor to fill and seal the hole and left a "drip loop" for any moisture to drip off of. I also left the LED connector outside so the strip is easily replaceable if needed, I put dialectic grease in the connector to keep it from corroding.

It turned out very nice.

I'll get some pics up later.


Can you post the source you got this from, or the brand? Having 3M products vs cheap $hit makes a big difference.

I really want to get just the soft white, because I think it is easy on the eyes, how do you like your color choices?


Thank You,
Joe


Hello. I got my set off of Amazon. LED Wholesalers. You need to make sure you get the IP65 strip. This will be the strip with the LED's embedded in silicone. The IP66 will just be in a rubber sleeve and is not really meant for outdoor use. If you look at the pictures of the LED strips you will see the suttle differences that make a big difference.

Yes I do like the light colors. After I bought these I seen they have RGBW sets. Those actually have white LED's. Mine uses a setting of colors to come up with white. If you look closely it looks like a very light colored black light, but still gives off a good white color. I'll get some pics when I'm out this weekend.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Zeppe807
Explorer
Explorer
dodge guy wrote:
Ok, on a few things.
Yes they are RGB.
They are the weatherproof ones.
The one strip I used has 3M adhesive on it.

I installed them yesterday. I scuffed the bottom of the awning/gutter track and used some 3M adhesion promoter to keep the strip on the channel. I did end up drilling a hole right below the gutter that goes right in the bedroom. It is behind the awning when rolled up so even sealed up it should never see moisture. I then ran the 12V from the bedroom light switch to power the LED's. I put the remote "eye" through the hole to the outside so I can use the remote outside the trailer I used some Dicor to fill and seal the hole and left a "drip loop" for any moisture to drip off of. I also left the LED connector outside so the strip is easily replaceable if needed, I put dialectic grease in the connector to keep it from corroding.

It turned out very nice.

I'll get some pics up later.


Can you post the source you got this from, or the brand? Having 3M products vs cheap $hit makes a big difference.

I really want to get just the soft white, because I think it is easy on the eyes, how do you like your color choices?

Thank You,
Joe
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dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
APT wrote:
Dodge Guy, could you cut your strip in half and use a splitter maybe? Soomeething like this I was tihnking. Run your controller output up the middle or wherever it it to the bottom of awning tube. Cut the light strip inn half and run it both ways.


Yes, I thought about that, but I didn't want to create a corrosion point for any connections (although I guess I created a possible leak point in the side of the trailer! LOL). I thought about an extension wire, but I didn't want to have to plug it in all the time.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!