This is the second set of tie down I made so I thought I would snap some pictures and tell how I did it. You will need some fabrication tools. Metal chop saw, grinder, and welder were the tools I used.
I started with what I had laying around.
Square tubing
Angle Iron
Flat metal
black pipe large enough for 3/8โ #8 bolts to slide thru
Chain
The finished installed tiedowns do not extend past my tires.
I only have the finished pic of the rear tiedowns. They slid into the ends of my existing reciever on the truck. I drilled a hole through the reciever and the tiedowns and put a long 1/4x20 #8 bolt thru so the tiedowns do not slid out. You could use some type of pin if you would like to make it easy to remove. I leave mind on all the time. They do not rattle and act as a nice step to get up in the bed of the truck.
As you can see, I cut one end at an angle where the end tiedown plate is. This makes them parallel with the side on the truck.
Now you will have to take some measurements of how high you frame is, how far out you need to reach from your frame to be able to attach your turn buckle system.
I made the angle iron taller than the side of my frame so that I could attach the fastener that wrap around the frame.
I then attached the length of pipe that extends out from under the truck. You measurement will vary.
A brace is needed, I used a small piece of angle iron.
And put on the end plate that you will attach your turn buckle system to.
Now I did not want to drill through my frame. Plus the fuel tank was in the way on the drivers side. So I made these hooks to wrap around the frame and fasten the tiedowns with a #8 bolt.
This is how I made themโฆ
I cut a chain link and half and welded the two pieces to a piece of black pipe. I made sure the โhookโ opening was large enough to allow the frame to slid in.
This pic shows a scrap piece of metal that is the same thickness of my frame. I used it to make sure I had enough gap in the hook.
I welded the chain link onto the black pipe and then cut the pipe to the proper length.
Here is a picture of the hooks wrapped around the inside of my frame with a #8 bolt going thru them and attached to the tie down. There is a hook on each corner of the tiedown attaching it to the truck frame.
Picture of the tiedown mounted to the frame. On the driver side, I did disconnect the emergency brake cable and re-route it thru the tiedown.
This is a picture of the back side of the frame with the hooks coming around it.
Picture of the tiedown coming out from under the truck. Everything was primed and painted.
Every year I hit them with a rattle can of black spay paint to keep them looking fresh. I guess you could take them somewhere to have them powder coated if you want to spend the bucks.
For the comments below, I used to have these pics on photobucket, until greed took them over. They are now hosted on imgur. If the pics are still missing, let me know and I may be able to get you a link to a google doc.
I hope you enjoyed this write up. I also have write ups on how to add a bypass filter for a F250 super duty to keep the oil cleaner longer LINK HERE.
I started with what I had laying around.
Square tubing
Angle Iron
Flat metal
black pipe large enough for 3/8โ #8 bolts to slide thru
Chain
The finished installed tiedowns do not extend past my tires.
I only have the finished pic of the rear tiedowns. They slid into the ends of my existing reciever on the truck. I drilled a hole through the reciever and the tiedowns and put a long 1/4x20 #8 bolt thru so the tiedowns do not slid out. You could use some type of pin if you would like to make it easy to remove. I leave mind on all the time. They do not rattle and act as a nice step to get up in the bed of the truck.
As you can see, I cut one end at an angle where the end tiedown plate is. This makes them parallel with the side on the truck.
Now you will have to take some measurements of how high you frame is, how far out you need to reach from your frame to be able to attach your turn buckle system.
I made the angle iron taller than the side of my frame so that I could attach the fastener that wrap around the frame.
I then attached the length of pipe that extends out from under the truck. You measurement will vary.
A brace is needed, I used a small piece of angle iron.
And put on the end plate that you will attach your turn buckle system to.
Now I did not want to drill through my frame. Plus the fuel tank was in the way on the drivers side. So I made these hooks to wrap around the frame and fasten the tiedowns with a #8 bolt.
This is how I made themโฆ
I cut a chain link and half and welded the two pieces to a piece of black pipe. I made sure the โhookโ opening was large enough to allow the frame to slid in.
This pic shows a scrap piece of metal that is the same thickness of my frame. I used it to make sure I had enough gap in the hook.
I welded the chain link onto the black pipe and then cut the pipe to the proper length.
Here is a picture of the hooks wrapped around the inside of my frame with a #8 bolt going thru them and attached to the tie down. There is a hook on each corner of the tiedown attaching it to the truck frame.
Picture of the tiedown mounted to the frame. On the driver side, I did disconnect the emergency brake cable and re-route it thru the tiedown.
This is a picture of the back side of the frame with the hooks coming around it.
Picture of the tiedown coming out from under the truck. Everything was primed and painted.
Every year I hit them with a rattle can of black spay paint to keep them looking fresh. I guess you could take them somewhere to have them powder coated if you want to spend the bucks.
For the comments below, I used to have these pics on photobucket, until greed took them over. They are now hosted on imgur. If the pics are still missing, let me know and I may be able to get you a link to a google doc.
I hope you enjoyed this write up. I also have write ups on how to add a bypass filter for a F250 super duty to keep the oil cleaner longer LINK HERE.
