Max Trailer

[bradg]

I recently purchased a 2015 Yukon XL and am looking at upgrading a Pop-up to a travel trailer. Trying to find out what size I can get is pretty confusing. The Yukon is rated with a max towing of 8500. It also has a Curb weight of 5536 & GVWR of 7300 (leaving 1764 Max Payload).
I was always looking at the max trailer of 8500 when looking at a trailer (dry weight + trailer load). However, in looking at the stats, I see the real limiter as the GCWR which is 14000. If I take the GCWR of 14000 and subtract the curb weight of 5536 of the vehicle, I get the 8500. But if I figure in cargo in the vehicle & trailer, the maximum trailer gets much smaller. For example, if I assume 1000 lbs of people and luggage for 5 people and then another 1000 lbs of trailer weight, that leaves only 6500 pounds for the trailer.

I see another bottleneck as well. The GVWR is 7300. Subtracting the curb weight of 5536 leaves 1764 for cargo. If I use 1000 for 5 people and some cargo, it leaves about 764. However, does the hitch rating need to be added here? For example, if the Dry Hitch Weight is 891, then I've blown the GVWR limitation.

Am I looking at this correctly?
1. If a Trailer dry weight is 6267, and the rated cargo capacity is 1586, how much should I figure for the wet weight? 6267 + ???.
2. Does the Hitch weight of the trailer need to be added to cargo weight for the GVWR limit? This might be the biggest limiter if so since I may make it under the GCWR limit and blow the GVWR limit.
3. On my 2015 Yukon, I have the Max trailering package. However, I can't find the limit on the included integral hitch system. Should I assume that it will handle the MAX Trailer weight? Or where do I find the limit?

[Campfire_Time]

Understood. Some folks swear by the "popup gizmos" to provide a bit of extra insulation. I can tell you from owning two hybrids that hybrids cool and heat far easier than a PUP (we had a PUP for 10 years prior to our first HTT). We were in Vegas in 2005 and it was 100 during the day. The A/C ran a lot by it was comfortable. And that's without the popup gizmos.

[bradg]

Campfire Time, I wouldn't be adverse as a way to get the room I'm looking for with the sleeping capacity. However, the slideout beds while giving you that ability creates the same cooling issues that popups do since they are canvas which is problematic when camping in Texas during the summer.

[Campfire_Time]

Glad to hear you have the 3:42s. That would be a real bummer if you didn't.

Have you considered looking at hybrid trailers? Lots of room for a family, lots more floor space than a similarly sized TT, and far lighter in most cases. For example, the Jayco X23F has 3 beds, a slideout dinette, and a GVWR of 5,995#, well within your XL's ratings and a tongue weight light enough to not eat your entire CCC in your XL. Granted hybrids aren't everyone's cup of tea, but lots of us love them. We had our first HTT for 10 years, and bought a new one last year. Just a thought...

[bradg]

NyBilly, Yes, I do have the XL which is equivalent to the Suburban. Not sure how much difference that really makes. But, I'm really disappointed that you had that much problem with a 5500#, 26ft trailer.
Honestly, I started out purchasing the Yukon XL for the features, 3 seat room and room behind the 3rd seat. Wasn't planning on replacing my Jayco 14SO popup, but started thinking about it after the fact.

Campfire Time - Yes, it is probably 8300#. In researching, I've found both 85K and 83K listed. The Manual shows 8500# on the page you listed in your note, but online I've also seen 8300#. If you take the GCWR and subtract the curb weight, you get 8464#. It is the 2WD version.
I did get the max towing package, and looking at the Detail Info on the VIN locater, it shows KC4 (Oil Cooler), GU6 (3.42), NHT (Max Trailer), JL1 (trailer break controller), KNP (Trns Cooler). But I will verify the stickers as well to make sure. Thanks, I did find the Hitch rating in the manual. Must have missed that previously.

[Campfire_Time]

I'm curious, where did you come up with 8500#? You have an XL, assuming you have a 2WD, your max is 8300#. If you have 4WD you're down to 8000#. This also assumes 3:42 gears. Drop 2000# off those numbers if they are the 3:08s, including the GCWR. See page 9-80 of your manual. Check your RPO list in your glove box, look for either GU4 or GU6. You need to know this before proceeding any further. 2000# is quite a difference. Also in the manual is the max tongue weight, 1000# with WD hitch. Otherwise I think you're looking at everything right.

GU4 = 3:08
GU6 = 3:42

Link to 2015 Yukon manual

Nybillygoat wrote:


With the short Wheel base and low payload rating you will be white knuckling the whole time.

He has an XL, long W/B, GMCs version of the Suburban.

[Nybillygoat]

I know I don't post on here much, but when i saw this thread, I wanted to put my two cents in ... I had a 2010 Tahoe with the max towing package pretty much what you have now.. it had a rating of 8500Lbs. also .

With the short Wheel base and low payload rating you will be white knuckling the whole time. I bought the Tahoe for the seating capacity thinking since the new camper I had on order would sleep 8 people and was only 26.5 Ft and the dry weight would be 5500 lbs. That I would be find. WRONG .. I have over 2 dozen cat Scale weight-ins .. Your Yukon with you (driver only) and a full tank of gas weighs approx. 6100 lbs. give or take.. it will leave you with about 1100 - 1200 lbs. of payload.

Any travel trailer you buy is going to put about 450 - 750 lbs. of weight on the back of your Yukon. not including the hitch weight . It will leave you with about 300 - 500 lbs left for passengers. And the short wheel base will have you all over the place...

I would look at some pretty small ultralite TT or a Hybrid. Im only talking from experience and my own opinion.

The Yukon has a 2500 version along with the chevy 2500 suburban . its always good to do your home work before you buy.. i learned my lesson

And for some reason the ford expedition has a pretty good tow rating, but it also has a longer wheelbase.

I kept the tahoe as a spare car , and bought a crew cab pickup instead. i finally traded in the the tahoe in 2012 with 6500 miles on it... I learned a expensive lesson.

good luck

[APT]

Your limit will likely be the receiver or payload. Verify your as equipped payload per this sticker on your driver's door post:




Your payload is probably in the 1500 pound range as equipped. If you actually have 1000 pounds of people and cargo in the SUV, your max tongue weight is only 400-500 pounds, which means about a 3000 pound dry RV.

You should also verify yours has the HD towing package with 3.42 axle and engine/trans coolers. Locate the sticker in the glove box and look for KL5 for GM's HD trailering package. KNP is the Trans cooler and KC4 the engine oil cooler.

You are he first owner of a 2015 GM SUV. Can you please look at the receiver for a sticker like this one? What are your limits?

[rbpru]

It looks like you have run up against the max payload limit which is often the limiting factor.

If your payload limit is 1764 lbs. and your family/cargo load is 1000 lbs. you have 764 lbs. of tongue weight available.

You also have to be careful that the Max towing applies to your model and extras. In my case my F-150 is advertised as 11,000 lbs. towing; however, that was for a select line of vehicles with the super spiffy towing package/motor combo, getting into the details I found that my specific truck options only allow a little more than 9000 lbs. Plus, the real limit was the max cargo of 1411 lbs. posted on the door sticker.

I would guess a 5000 lb. trailer is more in keeping with your vehicle ratings.

[Bagger97]

Don't forget the recommended 17-20% safety margin in your weight figures for both hitch and max trailer weight. That will reduce it even more.

[westend]

1.1000 lbs is a good ball park number.
2. Yes, the tongue weight of the trailer and the weight of a weight distributing hitch along with cargo and passengers is subtracted from the payload and is the usual limiting factor with light trucks or SUV's.
3.Look for a stamp on the vehicles hitch receiver. The number should also be in your owner's manual.