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moving up to 50 amp from 30

Family-of-five
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all. Im trading in my 30 amp rig for a bigger rig with dual ac units and 50 amp.I used to run an extension cord from the garage and with the use of an adaptor,plug in for the frige and keep battery charged.My new unit does not use propane for the frige but runs off battery instead.I would like to run the extension cord like I used to to keep the battery charged.Is it ok to run 110 to the 50 amp power cord?
13 REPLIES 13

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a 30 amp RV, but when I ran mine, I ran 6g wire and put in a 50/30/20 box. It was not much more expensive, and no matter what I do in the future, I am ready. I absolutely hate having to do something twice because I cheaped out the first time.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Family-of-five wrote:
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.

Concur !

Before you make a final decision, get pricing on both a 120VAC 30A and a 240VAC 50A. The biggest cost is going to be digging the trench !

wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
If we’re me with a new unit, I bite the bullet and call in a electrician and run a circuit that supports the unit. A one time expense you will thank yourself for down the road.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Family-of-five wrote:
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.


If you are doing DIY there is little cost difference to going to 50 amp.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Just confirm you don't have any 220v appliances (not common) and otherwise, it should be fine. If you do, kill the breakers to the 220v appliances before plugging in.

You will be limited on what you can run (maybe 1 air/con...definitely not both). But just running the fridge and keeping the battery charged, shouldn't be an issue.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Family-of-five
Explorer
Explorer
Im thinking about running a permanent power supply to the camper from the garage about 50 ft away. I am having a carport put in so I can keep my new baby covered,and I can put underground wires from the breaker box in the garage to inside my carport.30 amp should be enough to do what I want to do.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Family-of-five wrote:
My new unit does not use propane for the frige but runs off battery instead.I would like to run the extension cord like I used to to keep the battery charged.Is it ok to run 110 to the 50 amp power cord?
OK so I assume you have a residential compressor fridge. There should be a way to run this direct on 120v power when you are plugged in at home or at camp. Battery power s/b just in transit or camped off-grid.

Otherwise the extension cord is fine. I recommend #12 wire for the cord.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you proceed, I’m sure you’ll be careful in line with the comments above. Will your DW, kids and friends? Better to install adequate power.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Continue to use the system that served your 30 amp RV.

If there is an Energy Management System, I'd set it to 15 amps to limit breaker tripping at the shore power breaker box.

Do use a #12 or #10 extension cord, if greater length is needed.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would use your 50A cord run to the outlet and a dogbone to connect to the receptacle. Then switch off all the circuit breakers to ACs and any other electricity hogs just so nothing gets turned on accidentally.
Best scenario is to install a 50A receptacle.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
For what the OP is asking, it would be okay using at least a 12 ga cord that is not super long. I agree with jdc1, and would add, all items mentioned including AC, would be a hefty load, even for a 30A dedicated circuit, but do able, if not a really long run.

Jerry

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wanderingaimlessly
I'm glad you edited your reply. Had family-of-five used that extension cord and 20amp adapter set-up to run a converter/charger, inverter, fridge and AC....something would give (burn up). Usually the AC first.
Family-of-five should have a 30A or 50A outlet/breaker install closer to the RV.I did my 30A for under $200.

wanderingaimles
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, so long as you are only charging batteries and maybe one AC unit depending on the cord and the outlet (20 amp) that you are plugging into.
If your fridge is using AC power from an inverter, it MAY/PROBABLY/USUALLY has an automatic function that switches from inverter usage to run directly from the AC shore power, it that is the case, you likely will not be able to run the air conditioners with the reefer running also from the 20 amp circuit.