Nov-19-2020 01:38 PM
Nov-22-2020 04:52 AM
Nov-21-2020 09:04 PM
towpro wrote:
I have never tried to put a home thermostat in a system like you have, but its easy to figure out.
Again, I only see 1 wire involved in HEAT, so I believe the 2 stage heat is done 100% based on time, and it controlled by heater mother board. I do recall when I had this system (year ago), when you started it after getting to camp ground on cold night the heat would come on low, than after a couple minutes switch to high until temps were satisfied, then turn off. than the rest of the night it would just run on low because normal heat never allowed heater to run long enough to hit the timeout that starts state 2 heat.
First, I am not responsible for any damage you do, this is purely for entertainment proposes.
The AC jumper for coleman is between 3 and 4 pin providing 12vdc to comp and fan
Its between 2 and 3 for dometic for 7.5 v
But the AC is the easy part to understand
2nd. I do see on page 15 they have Two different systems, one uses wire 6 wires, and one uses 7.
the 7 wire appears to be of you have a Colman AC it uses wire 2 which is 7.5v no idea what that is for.
my logic below only applies to 6 wire system.
Your new digital home thermostat:
the logic on a home thermostat is as follows:
When you have a call for heat, the thermostat closes a "Heat relay" that connects terminals C and W, and heat comes on.
when you have a call for AC, the thermostat closes a "compressor contractor relay" that connects C and Y. and the AC comes on.
it can also control relay "fan relay" which connects terminals C and G.
Don't worry about the 24Vac, this is not needed by thermostat (more later on that)
From the wiring diagram in document, here is what I see your system has.
1= 12Vdc ground
2= not used
3= 12Vdc positive (appears to come from heater)
4 = not shown
5 = compressor turn on (to AC)
6 = Hi fan turn on (to AC)
7 = Low fan turn on (to AC)
The first step is to find out what your current thermostat does to wires 5, 6, 7 and 8 to cause those features to turn on.
You can use a meter to test this.
Turn the heater on (if thermostat works)
using volt meter, with heater running check voltage between wires 3 and 8. we know 3 is 12V positive, and we know 8 is the "turn on wire" to heater.
With heater running, if you show 12V between wires 3 and 8 we know the thermostat is applying 12v- (ground) to wire 8 to start heater.
If you show no voltage, then check between wires 1 and 8.
Since 1 is 12v negative (ground) if you see voltage between 1 and 8 we know that the thermostat is connecting 12V + to wire 8 to turn on heater.
Now test the voltage between 3 and 5 with AC on, do you see 12V? if yes, thermostat is grounding 5 to turn on AC compressor
now do same test for wires 6 and 7, to see how the thermostat turns on fan.
I am betting this thermostat is grounding wires to turn on AC, heat and fan. if this is true here is how I would wire home digital thermostat.
set new thermostat for 1H1C (single stage heat, single stage cool).
I am using wire numbers from old thermostat since I don't know the real colors.
remove all jumpers for new thermostat.
1 = 12Vdc Ground goes to new thermostat terminal Blue or black C or common.
3 = 12V positive is not used, tape up end so it don't tough any thing inside thermostat.
8 = Furnace turn on wire goes to new thermostat terminal white W heat
5 = compressor turn on wire goes to new thermostat yellow - Y air conditioner
6 - high fan to AC
7 = low fan to AC
Fan control:
there is several ways to go here. First the thermostat can only turn on 1 fan, so you can add a small small single pole, double throw switch to change between Hi and Lo.
Take the thermostat fan output and attach it to the center pin of a SPDT switch. than attach #6 to one outer pin and #7 to other outer pin. this allows you to switch between High and Low fans. find a space on bottom of side of thermostat to mount this switch.
or just attach wire 6 to new thermostat and AC will only have high fan.
Now what do we do to this wire off center of SPDT switch to control fan? that depends:
Most better digital thermostats will have a setting for "heater controls fan" or on some call it "gas heat" mode.
this means that the thermostat will NOT turn on G (Fan relay) for heat, but will turn on G (fan relay) for AC. If this is the case, you can wire you fan to G terminal. this allows you to turn the AC fan on and off by fan switch on face of thermosate.
If you want the AC fan to cycle on and off every time your propane heater starts, set thermostat to "thermostat controls heater fan" and use terminal G. (this can distribute hot air from propane heat better through coach).
If your thermostat does not have the choice for "do not turn fan on for heat" and you only want ac fan to come on and off with AC, wire your fan switch to terminal Y, but this will cause fan switch on thermostat to not function.
Now if the old thermostat is switching 12V positive to every wire above to start the features, I would change to this wiring:
1 = 12Vdc negative (ground) wire is not used
2 = 12Vdc positive wire goes to new thermostat terminal Blue, or black C or common.
your new digital home type thermostat has batteries inside that control the display as well as the relays. it does NOT need 24V to function. in fact they try to NOT make thermostats that use the 24V to functions as it can cause "issues" in larger complicated home type systems.
BUT on the other hand Ecobee thermostats need the 24Vac to run so you can't use them in your RV. It appears nest has a rechargeable battery you can charge with USB, or just run a AAA alkaline battery in it.
Nov-21-2020 08:20 PM
notsobigjoe wrote:
Thanks! Is the stat your showing me the same as mine? It sure looks it but the wires are thicker and mines a dual stage. If I can do this it would be great. Actually, I'll have my Hvac friend Garrett take a look at your post. I can afford that... LOL Thank you very much my friend, I'll let you know how I make out.
Nov-21-2020 04:12 PM
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