no power inside 94 mallard

[miwei]

(my apologies in advance I simply can't just 'cut to the chase' it doesn't make sense to me lol so I'll channel my hubs then ask the way I feel comfortable)
Having recently purchased our first travel trailer a 1994 fleetwood mallard 29' it's on a permanent campsite under a 40' shed.
Hub's version: I left two lights, and shutdown power supply. today I plugged in the power and flipped the breakers one for the shed & patio, the other for the TT. lights outside work inside nothing. no idea where the fuse box power converter is located.

My meandering version:
the issue is this: I've tried to gather schematics to better help hubs but I can't find any. it seems he decided to leave the two lights above the sofa on, so that when he came back he would have two lights on when he turned the power on (i think he blew a fuse or tripped a breaker).
I'm thinking he's either blown a fuse or tripped the gfic-he finally located in the bathroom-he said it wasn't pushed out. he's not the most patient man when it comes to things like making certain to keep shoreline circuit breakers off before plugging in the power cord and flipping said circuit breakers several times, hoping against hope that it actually works to turn inside lights on.

if it's not a blown fuse or circuit breaker what might be the cause?

I'm learning that he didn't put a pressure regulator on the outside faucet either last week before hooking up the white hose to the TT water intake (he bought one today and has it attached to the intake piece on the TT, shouldn't it be at the faucet end?), causing the cap to blow off the kitchen faucet, and a leak at the toilet.
if anyone has advice or a website where I might find a manual for the mallard i'd greatly appreciate it. thanks Mi

[miwei]

Went up yesterday and took pictures of breaker box but not sure how to get them in the post...
The neutral was shorted out, having to put in new pedestal (18' pole, new box...) I saw the box when my friend (retired electrician) took it down after we had the power company come cut the power...We were hoping he could fix it but while we were getting permits he stayed on site and was told upgrade. Ouch!!!! Is all I can say. But piece of mind knowing it's setup to spec

[enblethen]

GFCI receptacles require power to reset. He should check for power with voltmeter before replacing. No power could be several issues including tripped breaker, if you have inverter check breakers on it, loose connection in circuit.

[miwei]

Hubs also told me that the bathroom GFCI wasn't tripped but he could not get the test reset buttons to move. Replace?

[miwei]

Hub's came home today he's tried a few things.
1. Tested the wall sockets with a tester...All pinged with power
2. Tested the breaker's under the bed fuses ( I don't think he tested each one but my bad if he did)??
3. Tested outside socket on TT it pinged
4. Tested the pedastal, undid screws checked the white wire, ground and " other wire...I can't remember the color. Said everything pinged

Not sure if this has anything to do with the issue but he told me he'd tried the water pump switch on the kitchen wall ( no water to pump,as he's yet to fill the tanks...He does have the regulator faucet side ) just a push on push off maybe 3seconds.

He works with an electrical engineer who told him it sounded like there's a ground ( is that the correct word) or is it short. IDK

I'm going to try and get an RV tech to come out and look.
Thanks again for your time and effort to help us solve this matter MW

[miwei]

westend wrote:
The box outside near the power pole is called a "pedestal" if it sits on it's own post or a "load center" if it is attached to the shed or power pole. Just trying to clear up any confusion. A "power supply" is typically a device that has 120V input power and a reduced voltage output. In the RV world, the output of an RV power supply would be around 12 VDC.

Thank you for clearing that up. I'm too new at this to have the terminology down. It's on a pole, with wires coming in from power lines, lines have been ran to storage building 2ft from pedestal

[westend]

The box outside near the power pole is called a "pedestal" if it sits on it's own post or a "load center" if it is attached to the shed or power pole. Just trying to clear up any confusion. A "power supply" is typically a device that has 120V input power and a reduced voltage output. In the RV world, the output of an RV power supply would be around 12 VDC.

[miwei]

westend wrote:
You more than likely have a disconnect or load center near the powerpole that provides 120V electricity for an RV,i.e. something of a steel box where you plug your shore power cord into.
Yes, it has two breakers and a plug 110v

Test the outlets on that to see if you have power there. WILL DO

If so, plug in the RV cord and you should have both 120V inside and 12v to charge a battery or the lights. If not, you may have a hidden GFCI receptacle that has tripped. IT can be close to a sink in bathroom or kitchen or even outside on the RV's exterior. I'll let him know to look for a second GFCI in those places, he was very impatient last evening so may have overlooked one. the bath one was ok.
Most of the time, a travel trailer has one or maybe two 120V circuits that provide all the power to the outlets. GOOD TO KNOW
If a GFCI is tripped, you won't have any power at the receptacles.

If the GFCI is not able to be reset or tested, there is no power to it. Go back a step and check for power upstream of the GFCI, at the breaker in the trailer or at the place where you connect the shore cord. WILL DO. THX
Your issue is probably something easy, look for the most common place first.

[miwei]

enblethen wrote:
The converter can be located in different places. It is commonly mounted in the hall way down close to the floor.
Another common place is along the side of the bed.
he found it, ours is under the bed near the lifting arm.
It should have 120 circuit breakers on one side. They should be all turned off applying light pressure toward off. Then turn main breaker on if equipped, then branch breakers one at a time.
will let him know
Next to the 120 volt circuit breakers there maybe a small plate that covers 12 volt power distribution center. The converter in your age of rig is behind the circuit breakers. THX

[miwei]

handye9 wrote:

Sounds like some kind of jury rigged system. Normal hook up would not include any kind of external power supply. Without seeing it, it's hard to say whether he could replace it himself, or, what it is supposed to be doing. It doesn't appear to be juryrigged. just the electric pole the power company put up and the power supply that is connected to the rig itself

Is that "power supply" doing what the converter is supposed to be doing?there are two breakers on the outside powersupply and one is running the lights in the storage shed and lights the previous owner put up around the top of the shed.

Is that "power supply" plugged into a GFCI outlet? Is the outlet tripped?as far as I know it is.

Could you post a picture of it? Maybe tell us (from a label on the supply) what the input and output voltages are?sadly, no/ no camera on phone

The battery, depending on size and shape of it's storage location, would be a group 24, 27, or 31 DEEP CYCLE marine/RV, 12 volt battery. If he installs a new battery, make sure it gets connected properly (ie: positive/negative wires on the correct battery posts). Hooking it up backwards will blow some fuses.
I'll let him know

[handye9]

miwei wrote:
no battery, someone stole the one the previous owner had installed.

what size battery would he need to buy?

now he's saying it may be the power supply that connects the Trailer to the pwerpole is this something that he could swap out himself? or does a professional need to do it?

Sounds like some kind of jury rigged system. Normal hook up would not include any kind of external power supply. Without seeing it, it's hard to say whether he could replace it himself, or, what it is supposed to be doing.

Is that "power supply" doing what the converter is supposed to be doing?

Is that "power supply" plugged into a GFCI outlet? Is the outlet tripped?

Could you post a picture of it? Maybe tell us (from a label on the supply) what the input and output voltages are?


The battery, depending on size and shape of it's storage location, would be a group 24, 27, or 31 DEEP CYCLE marine/RV, 12 volt battery. If he installs a new battery, make sure it gets connected propperly (ie: positive/negative wires on the correct battery posts). Hooking it up backwards will blow some fuses.

[enblethen]

The converter can be located in different places. It is commonly mounted in the hall way down close to the floor.
Another common place is along the side of the bed.
It should have 120 circuit breakers on one side. They should be all turned off applying light pressure toward off. Then turn main breaker on if equipped, then branch breakers one at a time.
Next to the 120 volt circuit breakers there maybe a small plate that covers 12 volt power distribution center. The converter in your age of rig is behind the circuit breakers.

[westend]

You more than likely have a disconnect or load center near the powerpole that provides 120V electricity for an RV,i.e. something of a steel box where you plug your shore power cord into. Test the outlets on that to see if you have power there. If so, plug in the RV cord and you should have both 120V inside and 12v to charge a battery or the lights. If not, you may have a hidden GFCI receptacle that has tripped. IT can be close to a sink in bathroom or kitchen or even outside on the RV's exterior. Most of the time, a travel trailer has one or maybe two 120V circuits that provide all the power to the outlets. If a GFCI is tripped, you won't have any power at the receptacles. If the GFCI is not able to be reset or tested, there is no power to it. Go back a step and check for power upstream of the GFCI, at the breaker in the trailer or at the place where you connect the shore cord.
Your issue is probably something easy, look for the most common place first.

[miwei]

rekoj71 wrote:
As for the regulator, if it's at the faucet end it helps protect the hose from bursting too, and not just the trailer.

thanks, I'll pass this along to him.

[miwei]

krobbe wrote:
The lights are most likely 12Volt DC. (The GFCI outlets are 120VAC) If shore power is good, Check bulbs, battery and fuse for that DC circuit. Also, make sure the 120v to 12V converter/charger is working. There is a breaker for that.
You won't find any manuals/schematics for the trailer. The only manuals provided with a new trailer is for the appliances.

thank you I'll pass this on to him.