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Question regarding stock caulking job around windows

Biggyniner
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All,

As stated in an earlier post I am in the process of purchasing a new 2015 passport 2400BH.

One thing I notice is that around the windows (on any trailer I look at it really) they only apply a bead of sealant around the top portion of the window. I live in an area that gets a lot of rain and I camp year round (so I will probably be towing in downpours), my question is should I add sealant to cover the sides of the window frame also? I think I heard somewhere you should not seal the bottom so it can vent/drain if moisture gets in there. Any advice is appreciated.

Chris
Chris (KD7WZW)
2003 Tiffin Allegro Bus M-32IP
8 REPLIES 8

Biggyniner
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
Typically the window is installed with putty tape or butyl tape as the seal and then caulk is applied on the top and sides as an extra barrier. The caulk really isn't needed if the window is installed correctly.


understood, I was just thinking about added it as an extra layer of security, as I live in a really wet area. One of my fears was voiding my warranty, I read somewhere that a persons SO added a better bead of caulk around their tub, the tub cracked, and they replaced it under warranty but was charged extra labor due to having to remove the caulk...

Chris
Chris (KD7WZW)
2003 Tiffin Allegro Bus M-32IP

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Typically the window is installed with putty tape or butyl tape as the seal and then caulk is applied on the top and sides as an extra barrier. The caulk really isn't needed if the window is installed correctly.
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Biggyniner
Explorer
Explorer
brulaz wrote:
Biggyniner wrote:
brulaz wrote:
The interior metal frames have weep holes.

But the exterior frame, where it meets the trailer shell, is usually only caulked along the top and possibly sides, to help keep water from sitting on the ledge and seeping in. The real barrier to water intrusion is the butyl or putty tape between the window frame in the shell.


On this particular trailer I am considering purchasing the caulking is only along the top. Do you think I should add a bead of caulk down the sides of the window frame as well? BTW it is a brand new trailer...

Chris


I really don't think it's necessary as water doesn't stand there and the underlying tape should stop all intrusion from the sides. On my trailer they are caulked only at the top and and just around the rounded corners to the sides. No caulk on the vertical sides.

But I don't think extra caulk on the sides will do any harm. I've done it myself in the past, but I'm such a messy caulker I'll probably never do it again.

Use a fresh polyurethane or Geocell caulk if you do, not silicone as once it's on it's extremely difficult to remove completely and some bonding agents will not stick to its residue.


I agree on with the types of caulk you described. My father used silicone on his old six-pac pickup camper and when i went to reseal it, it was a friggin nightmare.
Chris (KD7WZW)
2003 Tiffin Allegro Bus M-32IP

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
Biggyniner wrote:
brulaz wrote:
The interior metal frames have weep holes.

But the exterior frame, where it meets the trailer shell, is usually only caulked along the top and possibly sides, to help keep water from sitting on the ledge and seeping in. The real barrier to water intrusion is the butyl or putty tape between the window frame in the shell.


On this particular trailer I am considering purchasing the caulking is only along the top. Do you think I should add a bead of caulk down the sides of the window frame as well? BTW it is a brand new trailer...

Chris


I really don't think it's necessary as water doesn't stand there and the underlying tape should stop all intrusion from the sides. On my trailer they are caulked only at the top and and just around the rounded corners to the sides. No caulk on the vertical sides.

But I don't think extra caulk on the sides will do any harm. I've done it myself in the past, but I'm such a messy caulker I'll probably never do it again.

Use a fresh polyurethane or Geocell caulk if you do, not silicone as once it's on it's extremely difficult to remove completely and some bonding agents will not stick to its residue.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

Biggyniner
Explorer
Explorer
brulaz wrote:
The interior metal frames have weep holes.

But the exterior frame, where it meets the trailer shell, is usually only caulked along the top and possibly sides, to help keep water from sitting on the ledge and seeping in. The real barrier to water intrusion is the butyl or putty tape between the window frame in the shell.


On this particular trailer I am considering purchasing the caulking is only along the top. Do you think I should add a bead of caulk down the sides of the window frame as well? BTW it is a brand new trailer...

Chris
Chris (KD7WZW)
2003 Tiffin Allegro Bus M-32IP

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
The interior metal frames have weep holes.

But the exterior frame, where it meets the trailer shell, is usually only caulked along the top and possibly sides, to help keep water from sitting on the ledge and seeping in. The real barrier to water intrusion is the butyl or putty tape between the window frame in the shell.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

Biggyniner
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
I thought the bottom of windows had weep holes for condensation draining.
bumpy


Right, taht is what I thought too, hopefully someone on here can clarify.
Chris (KD7WZW)
2003 Tiffin Allegro Bus M-32IP

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
I thought the bottom of windows had weep holes for condensation draining.
bumpy