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Solar Charge Controller question

Twistedlarch
Explorer
Explorer
Here's my set up:
2018 Coachman Viking 17BHS 21'
Dual 6v batteries

Solar panels:
2 Nature Power 100 watt Polycrystalline panels
Tolerance: 3%
Voltage at Pmax(Vmp) 18.0V
Current at Pmax(Imp) 5.65A
Open circuit voltage(Isc) 21.6V
Short circuit voltage(Isc) 5.74A
Max system voltage 600VDC
Protection class Class A


I'm looking for a decent yet budget minded (Under $100) Solar Charge Controller to run my system.


Thank you!
Brian
45 REPLIES 45

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
babock wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
babock,

It would be good to provide a link to back up statements.

I do prefer MPPT myself.
Back up statements? You mean the output of a PWM vs MPPT?

Which part do you not understand?


babock,

You have offered an opinion.

Folks want to see studies that prove MPPT works better than PWM.

An ideal study would compare the payback time for the difference in cost.

For example, in 2005 my system panels cost was $5.50 per watt. Going to MPPT saved on the cost of the system, making a zero price difference between MPPT and PWM, at $1700.00. In 1990 I had a 30 watt system--which cost about $1700.00

Since then the price of panels has dropped precipitously but charge controllers not so much. The lowest price was, before artificial tariffs were introduced $0.36 cents per watt, retail.

That makes it cheaper to add another panel rather than switching to an MPPT controller, provided there is room on the roof.

So, today, my system would have a fully featured PWM controller rather than MPPT, if cost were the only criterion. But cost is not the only factor, and the price of a large capacity controller is a one time cost.

If the roof has no more room left, then MPPT to gather every erg of power may make sense.

My dream system would have remote actuators for tilt, and an MPPT controller with a system input voltage of at least 70 volts, and 2000 watts of panels.

So I suggested you to present a study that proves your opinion.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Twistedlarch wrote:
jdc1 wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/b/ref=DEX_NR_Covid?node=9433645011&pd_rd_w=YQLam&pf_rd_p=8ba1fd08-7860-44d7-b85e-7ca4028710d8&pf_rd_r=E67ZFDXT7ENHYZ181VEW&pd_rd_r=08f4818a-763a-4b36-80a4-a74e508c7f48&pd_rd_wg=FzCAv

This link takes me to Amazon but doesn't show anything.


Ditto. That's what I call "Epic Link Failure"
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

StirCrazy
Moderator
Moderator
pianotuna wrote:
babock,

It would be good to provide a link to back up statements.

I do prefer MPPT myself.


in theory what he said is right, but in real world with both setups ideal I would probably expect a 1 amp difference.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

babock
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
babock,

It would be good to provide a link to back up statements.

I do prefer MPPT myself.
Back up statements? You mean the output of a PWM vs MPPT?

Which part do you not understand?

beermanjoe
Explorer
Explorer
On the solar topic. My new TT has a solar plug in. How do I use it? Thanks
2018 Ram 2500 4x4 CC 4.10 gears 2020 Shadow Cruiser 329QBS

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
babock,

It would be good to provide a link to back up statements.

I do prefer MPPT myself.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
Look at a Bogart Engineering SC-2030 PWM charge controller. They run about $120 and are a simple reliable device. I also use a Morningstar TS-45 PWM controller. They are a little more and run around $175.
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68

babock
Explorer
Explorer
StirCrazy wrote:
while PWM may be a cheeper unit, walk right buy it. in ideal conditions a PWM wont have much less output than a MPPTe
Totally disagree with that statement. If you have a 100W 20V panel @ 5A, you will get 5A under ideal conditions with a PWM and 7A with an MPPT. That'a huge difference.

StirCrazy
Moderator
Moderator
while PWM may be a cheeper unit, walk right buy it. in ideal conditions a PWM wont have much less output than a MPPT , but we dont camp in ideal conditions, we dont aim our pannels most of the time, we try to park under trees which will cast shadows over parts of your pannels, this is where a MPPT controler shines and makes a large difference in your output to your batteries. I have 480 watts of pannels on my 5th wheel and I am going to upgrade it to a MPPT controler. does the other one work, yup but I notice the differences a bit of shading can make on the output from one area to another. I am also putting a 355 watt system on my truck camper I just got. That is being set up with a MPPT right from the start. they may cost an extra 50 bucks but its worth it.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

LtDanwy
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Renogy Wanderer MPPT on my trailer and it has worked wonderfully with my system.

babock
Explorer
Explorer
Epever is probably ok but the Victrons are great. Definitely get an MPPT controller. Depending on the panel specs, you can get 20% to 30% more yield.

In the case of the OP's panels, he would get a 22% increase.

EDIT: Just saw you made your choice.

Twistedlarch
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all for your input/suggestions! I decided to go with the Grape Solar COMET 12/24-Volt 40 Amp Solar Charge Controller. I want to keep things simple and inexpensive. (2) 100 watt panels is all the space I have on my 17' roof, and should provide plenty of power to my little trailer.

Last Summer I ran just fine on the Harbor Freight 100 watt Thunderbolt system. Since then I've upgraded from dual group 23's to dual 6 volts, therefor needing to upgrade my solar setup.

I ran my heat and lights for about 18 hours bringing my batteries down to 81%. One 100 watt panel had them back up to 100% in just under 3 hrs with the most intense sun hitting it in the last hour.

Again, thanks for all your help! Now I just need to figure out the best way to mount them to my roof ๐Ÿ™‚
Brian

dieseltruckdriv
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am leaning towards the EPEver controller also, but may go with the Victron for a bunch more money just because I am so darn happy with my battery monitor.
The reason I am upgrading is I am already close to maxing out my Renogy Wanderer, and I have 200 more watts sitting in the garage waiting to be installed, and I really didn't plan on going this big to begin with.

It gets addicting being able to do everything we normally do without having to start the generator.
2000 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke
2018 Arctic Fox 27-5L

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
X2 on the Epever solar controller, excellent unit.

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
I've been very happy with my Epever system. Search that term on Amazon.

It will stretch your $100 budget, but worth the extra money IMO.

I would go with a 40a, even though the 20 or 30a would suffice for your 200w panel array. Unless you have zero chance of adding panels later, for example, no roof space left. In which case, go with the smaller rating CC.

I would also recommend the kit that includes the MT50 monitor that you can place inside the coach. The kit also gets you the temp probe.

Money spent on a PWM is money poorly saved IMO.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver