solar panel install

[dave17352]

I wanted to ask a couple questions on my solar plan. I am looking at ordering one of these 200 watt kits. Renogy 200 watt kit

I plan to put this on my truck camper. I would like to be able to monitor what amps and volts are being put out but the cheapo charge controller doesn't do that. But I am ok with that as long as I don't really need that info.

I plan to install this with the wires running down the back of the fridge and then tying directly into the 12 volt hookup on my Fridge. I think it is 8 gauge wire to the battery. I have a 3 way fridge with the 12 volt option. If I do this I am just going to put the charge controller back there also. Is there any problem with doing this like this?

I am assuming once the panels are hooked up and the controller installed there really should be nothing for me to do except clean the panels occasionally. The charge controller should take care of itself. I can always check things now and then with a multi meter but other than that I would just leave it alone.

So is my plan ok or am I making some big mistakes and wrong assumptions. I am brand new to solar but it is so reasonable now I want to try it out.

Thanks in advance for any help!
Dave

[dave17352]

hedge wrote:
I really don't see the point other than to save a few dollars in wire while you give up the ability to see the panel/lights of the charge controller. I'm not sure the area behind the fridge is strictly waterproof either with a vent above and on the side it seems like it could get wet.

however...I don't think it's that hard to remember to shut off the switch to the controller before turning off the main disconnect. A sticker by the cutoff as a reminder may be useful.

Its not about saving the money its the convenience. I may hook up the 8 gauge wire to the panels and put the controller in the battery box. Not sure but they are coming on Tuesday so I will be making some decisions shortly! On the other hand I could drill a hole in the roof and run them straight down to the battery box. Decisions Decisions but at least I will have a project as winter winds down.:)

[hedge]

I really don't see the point other than to save a few dollars in wire while you give up the ability to see the panel/lights of the charge controller. I'm not sure the area behind the fridge is strictly waterproof either with a vent above and on the side it seems like it could get wet.

however...I don't think it's that hard to remember to shut off the switch to the controller before turning off the main disconnect. A sticker by the cutoff as a reminder may be useful.

[tattoobob]

Well space is a premium on my roof so I went with the smaller/higher output
panels I'm very happy with the way my set up works

[dave17352]

pianotuna wrote:
This is a poor choice. Run the extra wire directly to the bank. It is not expensive nor rocket science.

dave17352 wrote:
In my last post I explained Renogy did indeed tell me to put a switch in line with the positive coming off the panels to make sure there was no power going to the controller when the battery is disconnected.
I will disconnect both the battery and the controller at the same time. When not in use.

I respect your opinion but storage for me is in my shop building which is on my property which I visit everyday if not several times a day. My truck camper and other toys are of my top priority. I don't think it will be difficult for me to remember to disable both. Also at the low cost of the controller it would not be that expensive to replace. But who knows I may wire directly to the battery I will let ya all know what I decide!
On another note Piano I plan on getting a AGM battery because I understand they are comfortable with a 80 percent discharge. Not that I intend to do that on a regular basis do you have any experience with that. I notice you have agm batteries.
Thanks for all the opinions!

[pianotuna]

This is a poor choice. Run the extra wire directly to the bank. It is not expensive nor rocket science.

dave17352 wrote:
In my last post I explained Renogy did indeed tell me to put a switch in line with the positive coming off the panels to make sure there was no power going to the controller when the battery is disconnected.
I will disconnect both the battery and the controller at the same time. When not in use.

[hedge]

The Renogy mppt controllers are made by EPSolar, chinese of course. I have one but I am replacing it with a Morningstar. It seems to work fine but it just doesn't feel like it's very good quality. The Morningstar makes it seem like a toy... of course it's more expensive as well.

[dave17352]

towpro wrote:


To the original poster. I would call renogy tech support and ask them is it OK to disconnect the controller from the battery while solar panels are still connected?
Your only going to see power on controller with no battery if you were to pull camper outside before turning on battery switch. (which could happen)

In my last post I explained Renogy did indeed tell me to put a switch in line with the positive coming off the panels to make sure there was no power going to the controller when the battery is disconnected.
I will disconnect both the battery and the controller at the same time. When not in use.

[towpro]

thanks on the recommendation.
I just looked at the Eclipse.
it offers me the same 100w, in a 6" shorter package,
Module efficiency:
Eclipse 100W Monocrystalline: 18.35%,
regular 100W Monocrystalline: 15.47%,
100W Polycrystalline: 14.56%.

correct me if I am wrong here:
I can buy 2 eclipse for $440.00 and have 3% more efficiency.
Savings of 6" per panel but still have an output of 200w.

or I can buy 3 old version for $420 and have 50% more power = 300w.

to me cost is more of a factor than space.

also,
looking at 200w kits with PMW controllers cost $339.00
that same kit with MPPT controller cost $499. so this $160 extra for MPPT yields you what, 1.5 extra amp under ideal conditions?

Take the 339.00 2 panel PMW kit and add one extra $139.00 panel to it = $478.00
now you got 300w, and saved yourself $20.00 over a 200w MPPT system.

To the original poster. I would call renogy tech support and ask them is it OK to disconnect the controller from the battery while solar panels are still connected?
Your only going to see power on controller with no battery if you were to pull camper outside before turning on battery switch. (which could happen)

I know how hard it can be to run wires through a camper. I would be tempted to do exactly what your describe if I needed to.

[crosscheck]

dave17352 wrote:

tattoobob wrote:
FYI the Fridge uses a ton of 12v power most people run the fridge on propane and save the battery power for the things the really need like lights and TV

Yep if you read my first post I make it clear I do not use the 12 volt heating element. This is still all up in the air. I may wire it the right way too! I really want a 12 volt fridge but that is going to wait a while I think. 🙂

We have had a great 6 year run of dry camping with a 7.5CuFt 12V fridge with almost no genny or shore power. Started with 195W solar which was a little lean, ended up with 330W. 4 6V AGM 's were key in having enough storage when the sun was not full sun. Solar does work as long as you do not expect the same usage as on shore power.

Good luck on getting your feet wet with solar..

Dave

[dave17352]

tattoobob wrote:
FYI the Fridge uses a ton of 12v power most people run the fridge on propane and save the battery power for the things the really need like lights and TV

Yep if you read my first post I make it clear I do not use the 12 volt heating element. This is still all up in the air. I may wire it the right way too! I really want a 12 volt fridge but that is going to wait a while I think. 🙂

[work2much]

tattoobob wrote:
FYI the Fridge uses a ton of 12v power most people run the fridge on propane and save the battery power for the things the really need like lights and TV

Fridge on our camper uses about 180 watts, or about 15 amps dc when it cycles on. Not sure what the average is.

We run the fridge on DC during the day if it is sunny or while driving.

[tattoobob]

FYI the Fridge uses a ton of 12v power most people run the fridge on propane and save the battery power for the things the really need like lights and TV

[dave17352]

tattoobob wrote:
You can also call Renogy they have great customer support and can probably answer all your questions

Actually I did call them. They are the ones that suggested when the panels are not in use there should be a inline switch to disconnect the positive. They agreed to not leave any possibility of power going into the controller while in storage. These refer wires are 8 gauge wired directly to the battery its hard to pass this convenience up. I will probably hook up the controller to the panels and then put the 8 gauge wires directly into the controller. If I leave the controller on the floor of the refer area it should not really get that hot. But we will see! Another option is simply splice the 8 gauge wires to the panels and put the controller on down the line. Then run separate wires for the control board on the fridge.

Tattoo

I am going to go pretty cheap as even considering the grape solar 150 watt for 209.00. These will get very little use. Maybe down the road when we have more time I may get more serious. Just want to try this out, I am a generator guy now as I always have my 3000 honda eu with. But solar is really really getting reasonable these days. Even for very little use.

[tattoobob]

The Eclipse are better panels it's there new panels they added last year they're selling the old ones cheap to get rid of them.

These panels make more power than the old ones

The other part is the MPPT lets you run in series which lets you run 24volts to it

This kits gives you all the fuses, wires and Battery and Tracer Meter that lets you sett up your system the way you want it to run or you can run at stock settings

I'm very happy with it

it takes about 3 hours to charge my batteries back up in the morning I don't skimp on the power we use thru out the day,

I'm now expert but when my wife tells me to buy the new technology I do what she tells me lol.

[towpro]

tattoobob wrote:
Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Eclipse Solar Premium Kit up

I think you should spend the extra money and get the better panels with a MTTP Controller (I would also change the controller to a 40 amp.) Don't go direct from the panel to the fridge without going thru the charge controller

What do you think are better panels?