Suburban 10 gal heater electric element 2004 Arctic Fox 31W

[Passin_Thru]

I had a burned out element and replaced it and the anode in a Suburban 10 gallon. It doesn't work. Here's the problem. We replaced the inverter, recently which was intermittent, The refrigerator had to be reset by opening the rear motherboard and jumping it, the AM-FM-Disc player doesn't work,the slider switch is not getting juice to it. There are no fuses blown in the panel and I replaced one auto set breaker. I cannot find any breaks in wires and I have 12 V to the panel, lights fans, and the cigar plug in sockets for TV etc. This is getting me very frustrated. I can't find the point where the wire to the slider hooks into the 12V as it goes down the wall and through the floor in the inverter compartment. Well built trailers are a hassle sometimes.

[Mike_LA]

I posting the links below, just in-case you may need them.

Suburban Water Heater Service Manual

Video Part 1

Video Part 2

[Passin_Thru]

OK Thanks. Will try to pull water heater cover again over weekend. Have bad back pain right now from putting ceiling in shed. May be good project to keep me off ladder.

[carringb]

Also, there are two switches. One at the main control center, the other at the heater. Both must be on.

[Old-Biscuit]

Passin Thru wrote:
Have spark and gas flame, no electric heater for water heating. Will recheck circuit breaker. Checked all fuses with Fluke meter and tested for AMPs through circuit. Pushed in reset on left side but still no workie. Thanks. Still looking at it.

Electric side uses 120V AC power...no fuses involved (that's the propane side)

120V AC power from circuit breaker to junction box on right side of water heater (when looking at it from backside---inside rv)

From junction box to ON/OFF switch then to high temp t-stat to normal temp t-stat then to element.

Follow the 120V power from AC circuit breaker to element.

[Passin_Thru]

Have spark and gas flame, no electric heater for water heating. Will recheck circuit breaker. Checked all fuses with Fluke meter and tested for AMPs through circuit. Pushed in reset on left side but still no workie. Thanks. Still looking at it.

[Old-Biscuit]

Passin Thru wrote:
Sorry, converter. Not sure about why water heater doesn't work. Tested all fuses with a Fluke meter. All conectors/holders look brand new and so do the fuses. They are very tight. AC works unless converter is unhooked. Thanks

WH doesn't work on electric?

Push reset button (outside compartment----under rubber cover...top left one /right one is for propane). The reset is for high temp t-stat if tripped no power.

Check AC circuit breaker for electric element not tripped.....turn OFF then back ON

Check for AC power to ON/OFF switch in outside compartment

Check for AC power to element.


WH doesn't work on porpane?

Push reset button for t-stat

Check DC fuse for 12V on each side of fuse...don't just look at fuse. Test it and clip/blade holder for 12V power

Check that you get a strong spark at electrode

Check for 12V power at gas valve solenoids

[Passin_Thru]

Sorry, converter. Not sure about why water heater doesn't work. Tested all fuses with a Fluke meter. All conectors/holders look brand new and so do the fuses. They are very tight. AC works unless converter is unhooked. Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

Inverter.........takes 12V DC from battery and 'inverts' it into 120V AC

Converter.......takes 120V AC from shore power and 'converts' it into 12V DC

Are you sure you have an inverter and it is wired to feed your Suburban water heater 1400W electric element?

120V AC power panel with circuit breakers ....one should feed your water heater electric element, trailer outlets, A/C unit and converter that feeds 12V DC System/battery charger.

The DC fuses.......did you 'test' them for 12V on both sides of fuse are just look at them? The fuse holder clips/plugs need to make good tight contact that is why it's best to test for 12V both sides