Everyone installation is probably different based on where the box is going to be mounting. I would want to mount outside if at all possible to prevent dangerous fumes from getting inside the trailer.
I would mount my metal boxes on top of the tongue area and extend out on both ends if I was using the box for four GC2 6VDC batteries. This would give me around 450AHs by connecting two groups of the 6VDC batteries is series and then paralleling the groups.
You have to plan for drainage of water or battery fluids inside the box, routing of DC cables to and from the box, Venting of battery fumes when being charged, allowing room for the box lid to gain access, locking of the lid to prevent theft, etc...
The best solution for me would be to use the ROUND HEAD STOVE BOLTS mounted through the tongue frame from the bottom up so the round bolt head is on the bottom of the frame. Then you would use washers, lock washers and bolts inside the metal box to secure it to the trailer frame. When the box is locked then it is very hard to get to the mounting bolts to remove the box... This is done this way to make it harder for theft of the entire box with the round head screws only being visible at the bottom of the tongue frame.
Inside the box you will need to add a floor to allow for the washers and bolts to not get in the way of the mounted batteries. The raised floor gives a good reservoir for catching possible rain water or battery fluids to drain off to the ground.
I am a big fan of having a recessed latch type lid lock but the torklift round key lock is a better idea than using just a plain ole hasp with padlock..
The mounting ideas is to make it most difficult for the thieves of the world to gain access of your high dollar batteries. Remember their weapon of choice is Heavy Duty bolt cutters and cut off saws...
I would also want to install some BLUE SEA components where like cables are added for you connections as well as BLUE SEA high current battery switch operations. The TORKLIFT boxes may not be large enough to accommodate these ideas...
I want all of my battery connection to use the proper size ring terminals and all connections to made using stud bolts everywhere. All LIKE cable paths to be cut to exact lengths and all ring terminals protected with adhesive type heat shrink sleeves... When combining the 6VDC and 12VDC batteries you want all the like paths to be the same lengths as possible so that all DC currents will remain the same charging each battery in the combination.
I am also a big fan of using PVC ELECTRICAL BOXES and solid and flex type PVC conduit to route all of the DC Cables from point A to point B.
I also like to use the BLUE SEA HD Switches to combine the batteries so that I have as much disconnect capability to use one group or the other or completely disconnect all groups from service.
All of this adds to the install cost of course...
My battery system is monitored for DC VOLTAGE taps for the dual battery banks and the amount of DC Current that is being demanded to charge the selected battery banks as well as how much DC current is being pulled from the selected battery banks when running off the batteries...
Knowing what is happening allows me to determine how charge capacity I have at any given time and permits me to decide when to quit using the batteries or not...
My game plan to have my batteries to do what they are suppose to do and last maybe 5-6 years...
Other folks just runs a couple ragged old beat-up cheap battery cables from local auto parts stores and hook'em up...
Roy Ken
I would mount my metal boxes on top of the tongue area and extend out on both ends if I was using the box for four GC2 6VDC batteries. This would give me around 450AHs by connecting two groups of the 6VDC batteries is series and then paralleling the groups.
You have to plan for drainage of water or battery fluids inside the box, routing of DC cables to and from the box, Venting of battery fumes when being charged, allowing room for the box lid to gain access, locking of the lid to prevent theft, etc...
The best solution for me would be to use the ROUND HEAD STOVE BOLTS mounted through the tongue frame from the bottom up so the round bolt head is on the bottom of the frame. Then you would use washers, lock washers and bolts inside the metal box to secure it to the trailer frame. When the box is locked then it is very hard to get to the mounting bolts to remove the box... This is done this way to make it harder for theft of the entire box with the round head screws only being visible at the bottom of the tongue frame.
Inside the box you will need to add a floor to allow for the washers and bolts to not get in the way of the mounted batteries. The raised floor gives a good reservoir for catching possible rain water or battery fluids to drain off to the ground.
I am a big fan of having a recessed latch type lid lock but the torklift round key lock is a better idea than using just a plain ole hasp with padlock..
The mounting ideas is to make it most difficult for the thieves of the world to gain access of your high dollar batteries. Remember their weapon of choice is Heavy Duty bolt cutters and cut off saws...
I would also want to install some BLUE SEA components where like cables are added for you connections as well as BLUE SEA high current battery switch operations. The TORKLIFT boxes may not be large enough to accommodate these ideas...
I want all of my battery connection to use the proper size ring terminals and all connections to made using stud bolts everywhere. All LIKE cable paths to be cut to exact lengths and all ring terminals protected with adhesive type heat shrink sleeves... When combining the 6VDC and 12VDC batteries you want all the like paths to be the same lengths as possible so that all DC currents will remain the same charging each battery in the combination.
I am also a big fan of using PVC ELECTRICAL BOXES and solid and flex type PVC conduit to route all of the DC Cables from point A to point B.
I also like to use the BLUE SEA HD Switches to combine the batteries so that I have as much disconnect capability to use one group or the other or completely disconnect all groups from service.
All of this adds to the install cost of course...
My battery system is monitored for DC VOLTAGE taps for the dual battery banks and the amount of DC Current that is being demanded to charge the selected battery banks as well as how much DC current is being pulled from the selected battery banks when running off the batteries...
Knowing what is happening allows me to determine how charge capacity I have at any given time and permits me to decide when to quit using the batteries or not...
My game plan to have my batteries to do what they are suppose to do and last maybe 5-6 years...
Other folks just runs a couple ragged old beat-up cheap battery cables from local auto parts stores and hook'em up...
Roy Ken
