Towing a Travel Trailer

[vindicator]

I am new to travel trailers.

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 with a max tow of 8800lbs and payload of 1600lbs.

I am looking to purchase a Keystone Summerland 2820 which has a shipping weight of 6360lbs, capacity of 2240lbs, and hitch of 690lbs.

Will I have any trouble pulling it?

Thanks for your help....

[flasteve]

Truck will pull 8800lb trailer is 8600lb... My guess is I hope you do not plan on pulling in the west or any mountains you will not have a safe rig. Please do not go an any roads me and mine a on. Chances are you will be in a ditch after on semi passes you. I do not understand why people want to run so close to the edge of everything. Get a smaller trailer or bigger truck. DUH!!!

[myredracer]

Okay, but you *think* the payload capacity is 1420 lbs, but it's not really. Just for fun some day, take your truck to a scale and weigh it. Take the trailer too and weigh it all up and do the calculations. You may be in for a surprise.... Better to be educated on your weights rather than flying blind. Not trying to be critical, it's just that weighing TT and TV is a real eye opener. The payload capacity on our F250 is 1,000 lbs less than what the sticker says.... If in fact the scale tickets prove your actual payload capacity is truly 1420 lbs, I will send you a lovely complimentary gift of some sort!!

We have a 3/4 ton truck pulling a TT weighing just 6600 lb but I can tell you that it is pretty easy to overload the truck on payload if the supercab is loaded up with humans, pets, and other stuff and we load the bed of the truck up with a big load of firewood and other heavy stuff. Even a 3/4 ton ain't as BIG as you might think.

Also if you are driving at 70 mph a lot (or are you being honest on this?)? Driving regularly at that speed is going to lead to premature tire failure. ST tires are rated at 65 max., unless the tires have been upgraded. Even at a routine 65, you are significantly maxing the tires out. There are zillions (exaggerating..) of posts on owners with ST tire blowouts and in some cases, serious damage to the trailer. Again, not being critical, just saying it's better to play it safe and treat those tires with the respect they need. The experienced ones drive consistently at 60 mph.

[blackhound1]

I have a 2011 Ram, quadcab, hemi, 3.55 gears, 20-inch wheels. I recently purchased a Keystone Passport 31RE which has about the same weights as your trailer. I purchased an Equalizer WDH and installed Airlift 1000 airbags in the coil springs. I also purchased the OEM brake controller that I installed in about 10 minutes. My first tow experience was a 5 hour drive home doing 60-70mph on the interstate. The HEMI rocks!! You did know the trailer was behind you but I think any truck would be the same way with that length. I had no problems with braking or sway from passing semis or me passing them. Without running out to my truck to look on the sticker, I remember the payload being like 1420lbs. Get a good WDH and you should have no problems.

[myredracer]

Short answer - yes.

You want to get to a scale and weigh your truck and subtract that from the GVWR to get your actual payload capacity. Should be your next step before doing anything else. Actual payload weights are always less than the advertised payload number or what's on the door jamb sticker. If your truck has any add-ons or options, that comes off the 1600 number right off the top before you even look at available payload cap.

Throw any dry weight numbers on the trailer out the window. They're useless for anything. Actual trailer wt. and tongue wt. will be MUCH higher. You could easily find your truck is overloaded on payload and then you'll be sorry, unless you want to drive way overloaded. The capacity of 2240 I assume is cargo carrying capacity? That is BS.

I like to give our recent experience with a brand new TT as an example. Dry wt. 5237 lbs. Actual = 6600 lbs. GVWR is 6800 lbs. Dry tongue wt. 518 lbs. Actual = 960 lbs. Cargo carrying capacity (NCC) 1563 lbs. Actual cargo capacity left after adding basic cargo = 200 lbs. Axle ratings are 2 x 3500 lbs and max. total tire capacity is 7280 lbs. Our trailer is designed and built almost to the max. available capacities and leaves very little left over for either a safety margin or additional cargo capacity. None of the factory options/upgrades are included in the UVW which drives the actual weight up drastically. This is common, so check everything out very carefully, and don't go by the fairy tale factory dry and payload figures. I can't believe that we can't tow with even a full tank of fresh water without being overloaded.

Then there's the issue of frame strength on a trailer of that length and weight. If it's got a Lippert frame that has I-beams made from welded together 1/8" sheet steel, look out. Happy to elaborate if wanted...

I'm guessing the tongue wt. of your proposed trailer is up in the neighborhood of 1200 lbs and the actual wet/loaded trailer wt. will be something like 7500 lbs. I'm willing to bet big $$ that your truck ain't gonna have the payload capacity. Plus you are approaching the max. tow capacity and are going to find yourself under-powered at times. Keep in mind with your available actual payload capacity, you have to be able to add the DW, kids, in-laws, groceries, tools, and other "crap". You will probably not have enough payload for even the driver + full tank of gas with that trailer. There's also GAWRs, GCWR and max. hitch receiver wts. to consider, but probably not the issue you'll face first.

You're still at the point of guessing about a lot of things. I agree you would probably need 1200 lb spring bars, but unless you know the actual tongue weight, I would wait before ordering the bars. You don't want the bars to be undersized too much or you can get excessive bounce in the rear of the trailer (BTDT). If the bars are too undersized, you won't we able to "wind" them up enough to transfer wt. to the steer axle. That's why they call them "spring" bars...

Also, not sure why you need airbags. If it's because of rear end sag, then you haven't got enough payload capacity. You should be able to start your WDH setup by having the hitch ball higher than the trailer coupler (with level trailer) by about 1" to allow for settling of the rear of the truck. If the rear of the truck sags too much after getting the settled height of the front fenders right after hooking up, then your trailer is too much, or truck too little.

[boosTT]

I would double check your payload number. I don't think thats correct. I'm guessing its closer to 1200 lbs.

With that said, I tow a 19' TT with an ATV in the bed of my 2011 ram. I'm right around 1300-1400 lbs of weight on the truck and it tows great. Mines an quad cab, sport, 4x4 with a payload rating of 1380 lbs. I have airbags and a WDH.

[fla-gypsy]

I don't think you will like it very much. Keep it below ALL the manufacturers ratings and invest in a quality WD/SC hitch and you can do it safely.

[Sandia_Man]

Your truck can pull it, heck any truck can pull (see Toyota pull space shuttle) virtually any trailer. The question remains how well can it do the task. Most of my fellow Texas RVers love coming to NM, CO, and other mountainous regions to escape the heat and your expectations from this towing combination will be less than desired when doing so. You have a great truck and the TT you chose is a very nice rig, but there will come a time that one of them may have to change to enjoy a truly comfortable towing experience. Happy camping in your Keystone Summerland!!!

[2012Oudoorsman]

your payload being so high has me wondering, is that a brochure number or a yellow sticker on the drivers door number. Since you gave us gawr i figure its a yellow sticker number but guess i'm just use to hearing 4x4 payloads and when you don't have 4x4 you loose some weight.

[2012Oudoorsman]

Well it all depends on everyone's own situation. There is a lot that I don't about how you camps or plan on camping. With a trailer that size which just a little longer but a little lighter you should expect at least 1000lbs of tongue weight. Will a wdh compensate for that, Yes but not if you have 1000lbs of people in the cab and 2 rows of firewood in the back of the truck.

The truck will have plenty of power. Unless you live where its especially hilly or plan to camp where its hill I wouldn't worry about power. I live in the catskill mountains in NY and camp in the Adirondack and part of the Green Mountains in VT. The truck will surprise you as it did me. I mean like 3k rpms is the highest i've seen but there are worse mountains out there.

As I said your payload is pretty high (for ram) at around 1600lbs mine is 1165 from factory so you have about 450lbs more than me. Truthfully if I could do it all over again I would probably buy a bigger truck but at the time I didn't plan on buying a trailer.

If you have 2-3kids weighing 3-400lbs and bikes and stuff you will most likely over loaded, but may be within axle limits as I am. Yes you can put bike racks on the back and stuff in the trailer. The best way for me to tell you is find a scale I know its not easy the closest one for me is an hour, and go weigh your truck with your family and a full tank of fuel. This will tell you approx how much payload you have left for the trailer.

Most definitely you will need a wdh w/ anti sway thats a given for any trailer of that length. Do you have a trailer brake controller and class 4 hitch. I had both from manufacture. Some don't like the oem brake controller, I happen to think it works good and haven't had any issues. If I didn't have one installed from factory I would probably get the p3 controller or if you like things to look factory you can get the kit and have the dealer put it in.

I have airbags for Hauling firewood, you will not need them if all you plan on is firewood.

I don't know who said you will be fine...if its the trailer dealer don't believe them they will also tell you, you can do a 5th wheel if your willing to buy it

Side note, do you have the 8spd or 6spd tranny?

[vindicator]

2012Outdoorsman..

Correct its 2013 ram crew cab with the hemi, 3.55 axles ratio, 20 inch Rims, and its a 2 wheel drive.

In a nut shell, your saying all I need is an anti-sway bar and possibly airbags for my rear end. Is there anything else?

Everyone I have talked to says I should be able to do it, but that is all the information I have been able to get.

[2012Oudoorsman]

vindicator wrote:
I am new to travel trailers.

I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 with a max tow of 8800lbs and payload of 1600lbs.

I am looking to purchase a Keystone Summerland 2820 which has a shipping weight of 6360lbs, capacity of 2240lbs, and hitch of 690lbs.

Will I have any trouble pulling it?

Thanks for your help....

From what you say here and later you have a 2013 ram crew cab with the hemi and 3.55 axles ratio. It looks as if you will most likely have the 20" rims and express package. You have a fairly high payload for ram, is it 4x4, looks to be 4x2 bc of lower fgawr.

I have a 2012 Ram 1500 QC 4x4 with the 3.92 axle ratio and hemi. I have a Keystone Sprinter 266rbs. I weighed my rig yesterday. Dry i'm 6600lbs loaded i'm 7420. Dry tongue weight is around 700 i'm 900. Its only me, the wife and two dogs. The trucks sits very nicely when the wdh is distributed properly. Truthfully my truck weighs 7040. which according to ram is over my 6700gvwr. My truck is really no different and you have a 680gvwr bc you have a bigger cab which means you weigh more.

Since you have the crew cab i'm guessing you'll have more passengers than I. This all accounts in your total payload. I'm guessing you'll be sitting near where I am.

My truck came with load e range tires from ram, yours most likely will not since you have 20" rims. The goodyears are none for not being the best but you can probably manage with maxing out the tire pressure. All said and done you will probably have near the same set up as me but a little longer. Look into a good wdh.

I have the equalizer and had a few issues getting it to work good but now its great. Get an equally good one and you will have no issues sagging. I also have the airlift 1000bags that fit inside the coils. Trust me they work great for hauling but completely negate the effect a wdh system has especially a friction based one like the equalizer 4pt.

Personally i'm very comfortable with my rig. I am not over any axle loading in fact the closest is 300lbs away. Many will tell you that you can't go over your gvwr and while i agree, i also disagree. An f150 with an ecoboost has a gvwr of 7650 and an axle limit of 7800 combined while my ram has a 7800axle limit and 6700gvwr. I feel its becasue our suspension is softer but with a adjusted wdh you should be fine.

Most likely you'll want a 1200lbs bar wdh hitch also.

Any question on my set up because it will be near yours just ask. I'm no expert but i have towed with this about a dozen times this year and finally have it sitting just about perfect!

[goducks10]

BTDT with a 1/2 ton. Towed slightly less at 7300lbs loaded and TW of 900lbs. Truck had 1857lb payload. It can be done. But won't be easy. You will need to watch you trucks payload very closely. With a 6400lb dry TT you be around 7400+lbs loaded. Could be more if that's the brochure weight. Ideally you want between 10-15% for tongue weight. 12% is close to 900lbs. Add up everything like who's going with you and what you'll put in the truck. It all can't be more than 1600lbs. And chances are you may not have all that 1600lbs to start with.
So as you can see you're borderline on payload. Power wise with the Hemi shouldn't be the issue. IMO look for something in the 5-5500lb dry weight.

[sch911]

I am still wayne_tw wrote:
Watch this video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwOqARlw1EI

A TT getting blown over by an 80MPH wind? What does that have to do with this thread?

[vindicator]

The truck is a Crew Cab. The GVWR is 6800lbs, Front GAWR is 3700 and Rear GAWR is 3900.