Towing without mounting the anti-sway spring arms (bars)

[Mike_and_Verena]

I have an E2 Fastway weight distribution hitch, overall it has worked well.

Just want to ask a question, I'm still a newbie. So far every time we've gone anywhere we put the sway bars on and even in strong cross winds the trailer was steady.

Do I need to put the spring arms (sway bars) on for short trips across town in good weather? It seems to me that there shouldn't be any problem to that. Just want to double check if anyone has any ideas on this.

Thanks.

[dave54]

allen8106 wrote:

aftermath wrote:
...
Oh, but they are the same on an E2 hitch. Just like the Equalizer brand, the bars serve both purposes. Once you have engaged the weight distribution, you have also engaged the anti-sway mechanism at the same time. More advanced hitches do not rely on an add on friction sway device.

I wasn't aware they were combined.

Many models now combine the anti-sway into the WD design.

[allen8106]

aftermath wrote:

allen8106 wrote:
Part of the issue with your post is that I think you are confusing two different components. You mention spring arms (sway bars) in the same sentence implying they are one and the same. They are not. The spring bars as you call them are the weight distribution bars that takes weight off the back axle of the tow vehicle and moves to the front axle. The sway bars are different bars that minimize the back and forth sway of the trailer when towing. I would not tow without the weight distribution bars unless the you are certain it won't create steering issues, meaning minimal weight is moved front to rear without them. I would certainly consider not installing the sway bars for a cross town trip, just make sure you keep your speed down as to much speed will likely initiate sway that could lead to a disaster you don't want.

Oh, but they are the same on an E2 hitch. Just like the Equalizer brand, the bars serve both purposes. Once you have engaged the weight distribution, you have also engaged the anti-sway mechanism at the same time. More advanced hitches do not rely on an add on friction sway device.

I wasn't aware they were combined.

[BarneyS]

rbpru wrote:
Barney,

I have to think about that.

Without the bars the tongue weighs the ball down. Add the bars and they transfer some of the weight back to the TT and TV frames.

I would think amount of weight transferred to the frames is taken off the ball weight.

However, if the ball is acting as the fulcrum for the bars than it would seem the ball pressure would increase.

Since their appears to be no other way to transfer the bar tension to the frames except through the ball with the bar ends acting as anchor points, the ball pressure would increase.

Interesting mind game. Thanks

You got it! 🙂 You are welcome and not the first to think the way you originally did.

Just in case you have never seen it, and for others who might be interested, take a look at this thread, especially the first post, stuck at the top of the Towing forum about how a weight distributing hitch works.
Barney

[westend]

I've towed the rig in my signature on the open road with no WDH, even tried to make it sway. It won't. I do use a WDH when embarking on a trip because it does improve the weight geometry of the truck.

[rbpru]

Barney,

I have to think about that.

Without the bars the tongue weighs the ball down. Add the bars and they transfer some of the weight back to the TT and TV frames.

I would think amount of weight transferred to the frames is taken off the ball weight.

However, if the ball is acting as the fulcrum for the bars than it would seem the ball pressure would increase.

Since their appears to be no other way to transfer the bar tension to the frames except through the ball with the bar ends acting as anchor points, the ball pressure would increase.

Interesting mind game. Thanks

[real4u2c]

7 minutes to lockem in place vs. Unsafe towing. Anything can happen on a mile round trip, more especially if your wdh is taking 65% load off your tongue.

God I miss the popping of my sway bars, ah but Thanksgiving out camping is in a few weeks.

[PAThwacker]

Neither can overloading the rear crossmember crash zone hitch on 2007 to 2016 GM burb variants

[BarneyS]

rbpru wrote:
Snip...

Since the WD hitch produces an upward force to redistribute the tongue weight, it would seem to increase the possibility of an improperly locked socket jumping of the ball. Especially if the ball is the wrong size.

Snip...

That cannot happen! The WD hitch does produce an upward force BUT it is directed at the hitch and not the ball. You can almost think of the WD bars pushing UP on the ball but not the coupler. The action of the other end of the WD bars pulling down on the trailer A frame produces just the opposite effect and pulls DOWN on the coupler thereby INCREASING pressure on the ball. You could completely unlatch the coupler and the ball would not come off by itself because it is held on by the tongue weight of the trailer and by the increased pressure from the WD bars.
Barney

[PAThwacker]

More payload talk.

Just verified a payload sticker on a ram 1500 limited cc ecodiesel
981lbs payload 4 men 800lbs and take a second truck for groceries.

Love my 2400lb payload 2004 k2500 burb

[rbpru]

As the OP can see not all WD hitched are the same. The sway control on our Blue Ox is built into the design.

As to the TT socket jumping off the ball, the latch and cross pin is what is supposed to prevent that.

Since the WD hitch produces an upward force to redistribute the tongue weight, it would seem to increase the possibility of an improperly locked socket jumping of the ball. Especially if the ball is the wrong size.

With my TT and TV combination I much prefer the ride of the WD Hitch.

[PAThwacker]

More talk about the end of the k2500 suburban and why you can not go nuts towing stick and tin 30 foot 8500lb plus campers sans wdh or with bars. The true beast burbs are the 2001 to 2006 8.1 big block 4l80 and 4.10 rear. You could tow 10,000lb plus campers. Slap v5 monster hitches on them and be happier than a pig in ****.

2007 to 2013. 6.0 4l80 and later 6sp models. 4.10 rear and the largest trailer could be 7500lbs loaded to keep the tongue weight below 1000lbs


What a joke and matches the same capacity max in the half ton. Long gone was 10 mpg 3/4 ton burb in the camper/boat industry

Now you only can get a half ton burb and I'll let others chime in on the values of loading every seat in a half ton and have zero payload to tow anything.

[temccarthy1]

Have an Equalizer E2.. Wouldn't leave the driveway without it! Do not want to damage truck with too much weight on the hitch either!

[aftermath]

allen8106 wrote:
Part of the issue with your post is that I think you are confusing two different components. You mention spring arms (sway bars) in the same sentence implying they are one and the same. They are not. The spring bars as you call them are the weight distribution bars that takes weight off the back axle of the tow vehicle and moves to the front axle. The sway bars are different bars that minimize the back and forth sway of the trailer when towing. I would not tow without the weight distribution bars unless the you are certain it won't create steering issues, meaning minimal weight is moved front to rear without them. I would certainly consider not installing the sway bars for a cross town trip, just make sure you keep your speed down as to much speed will likely initiate sway that could lead to a disaster you don't want.

Oh, but they are the same on an E2 hitch. Just like the Equalizer brand, the bars serve both purposes. Once you have engaged the weight distribution, you have also engaged the anti-sway mechanism at the same time. More advanced hitches do not rely on an add on friction sway device.

[PAThwacker]

Isn't the stock hitch on the 07 and up k2500 subs only rated for 1,000lb Max tongue weight? This reason alone is why the k2500 sub is history! Not one aftermarket hitch is available either,