Trailer size question from a Newbie

[PSW]

We have had Class B and C motorhomes for thirty years and would like to try a small trailer. We mostly boondock and so the larger tanks and more room would be ideal for us.

I have been looking online and at RV shows and dealers for a couple of years, studying trailer issues, towing weights, etc and just educating myself in general on the subject ot travel trailers.

We have come down to one of two trailers: a Skyline Koala 21CS or 23 CS. Or, a Skyline Walkabout, same models and virtually identical except for decals.

The 21 is 24 feet and one inch long. The 23 is 26 feet and six inches, 29 inches longer.

The 21 weighs 3725 and the 23 weighs 3950, 225 pounds more. Of course, the tongue weight is a little more on the 23CS as well.

Both have identical tanks (42-40-40) and the 23CS has a seperate dinette and couch, as well as an extra window.

I will be pulling this with a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the towing package that includes the Hemi engine, Class 4 hitch, blower, big alternator, sway control, etc. Stated towing capacity: 7200 pounds.

I have talked to campers using this same setup and pulling heavier trailers and they report it works just fine, including a gal towing about 5200 pounds with the same Jeep and she was camped in the NF campground at 10,000 feet in Colorado when we had the detailed discussion about her rig.

All my research says the same thing. I know about not maxing out the tow capapcity, and I am leaving a 30% safety factor in the 7200 pound stated capacity. I have been "lurking" on the Travel Trailer forum for about a year or so reading and learning the calculations and following the various discussions.

HERE IS THE BIG QUESTION: I have never towed anything before (except a ten foot utility trailer I have owned for years) so I am new at towing. Will I notice any significant difference in that extra 29 inches of length towing the larger unit?

Now, I am assuming I will of course be getting a good weight distribution and sway control system in either instance.

Any comments or advice will be appreciated.

[DiskDoctr]

The biggest thing I would mention to a new tower is to remember the back of the trailer can swing to the side about the same distance as the distance from the rear tire to the back of the trailer.

In other words, if your trailer sticks out 10ft behind the rear axle, in some sharp turns the back of your trailer could need up to 10ft of clearance on the outside (ie 10ft of clearance on the passenger side to turn left)

When backing up, watch your trailer axles. GOAL (Get Out And Look) at where you want to back in and picture where you need to pivot the trailer on the axle and find a landmark you can see from the driver's seat.

It could be, "When my rear axle gets to this tree, start turning(or straightening, whatever is needed)"

You can even put a rock at that point.

I often set DW at a point where she can watch that point AND see the spots I cannot.

When backing up, the opposite side of the trailer from your turn will often be a complete blind spot. Keep that in mind 😉

And ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS remember...it is far better to GOAL a few times than to deal with a damaged trailer or surroundings!

As someone mentioned already, go to an empty parking lot and practice pulling into and out of parking spaces forwards and backwards. Stop in mid turn and GOAL to see how far over the parking lines your trailer is swinging in the front and back and in relation to your TV.

Tip: Paper bowls flipped upside down can make impromptu "cones" that won't cause any damage if you hit them.

Another important thing. While having a trusted person watch carefully, work out how SHARP you can cut a corner without hitting the back of your TV with the trailer or any other interference. Stop at the limit. Look in your rear view mirror, both side mirrors, GOAL. BURN THAT IMAGE into your head with the footnote "WHOA!"

Make sure your windows are down when using a spotter. You need to see them, hear them, and have them in a safe location while maneuvering. Isn't always a matter of hitting them. In the event of an equipment failure, hitch disconnect, etc, can they be hit, pinched, do they have an escape route, etc.

Most of these are common sense, but it doesn't hurt to review them. They will come naturally soon enough. 😉

One more thing. Reduce your speed when you first start towing. As you gain confidence, familiarity with your rig, and skills, you will get more comfortable and will be more prepared for normal highway speeds. People will go around. They may look irritated, but just smile and wave (yes, using all fingers :R)

Hope this helps.

[Atlee]

I see you've taken the plunge. Welcome to the club. We recently traded our 22 ft HiLo for a 24 foot Koala 21CS.

Presumably you're keeping the B? I plan on selling my B, and will be trailering for good.

I agree with the other posters, I don't think you will notice that much difference between the 21CS and the 23CS.

The 21CS follows along behind my F150 like a charm. The biggest problem you may run into is the relatively short wheel base of your Cherokee. Everything I've see indicates the longer the TV, the better the tow experience.

If you've gotten the 23CS by now, presumably you're gotten the WD hitch also. What did you get? I got a new Equal-i-zer 4pt hitch when I got the Koala. I had previous experience with the EQ several years ago with another trailer, loved it then, and still do.

Backing will come with experience. My biggest problem backing is impatience. I want to get it done too quickly, and start over correcting left and right movements.

PSW wrote:
Thanks for the responses. They convinced me to go with the longer unit. Now, if I can just learn to back up that sucker :R

[thib2722]

I hate to be negative, but weight isn't the problem here. Your TV is a wonderful vehicle. I owned three Grand Cherokees myself over the years. I towed a boat regularly with mine. The TV isn't going to be a great TV for a long trailer simply because you don't have enough vehicle to keep the trailer from pushing you around.

We had a 32 foot TT and towed with a 1500 truck. The TT was well within our weight, but it just pushed us all around the road, especially if there was wind. We traded up to another 2500 (we had several of them before) and the difference was night and day. We didn't need the extra engine power, but the heft of the truck just helped so much. The trailer no longer controlled the truck. It just followed straight behind because the TV was heavier, more stout, and had much better tires for towing (10 ply HD).

Maybe you could ask the TT dealer to let you hook up and take it on the interstate for a short run. If they really want to sell the unit they will say yes. You don't want to be stuck with something that you can't safely tow.

Good luck! I am not trying to rain on your parade. Those are just the experiences we personally had. The 1500 we had was a Dodge with the Hemi.

[Robby9]

PSW wrote:
Thanks for the responses. They convinced me to go with the longer unit. Now, if I can just learn to back up that sucker :R

I had no towing experience when I got my first TT. The first season backing was difficult, things got better the second season and by the third season I could back like a pro.

Just be patient and accept there will be a learning curve. Take your time don't be afraid to ask for or accept help. A nice older lady came and helped us out with directions when she saw me and the wife were having a difficult time our first time with a back in Site.

[PSW]

Thanks for the responses. They convinced me to go with the longer unit. Now, if I can just learn to back up that sucker :R

[CincyGus]

You would have a hard time telling one from the other behind you without using the rear view mirror.

[69_Avion]

When you are actually on the road you won't notice much difference. I can go from my 19' single axle trailer to my 34' triple axle trailer without noticing much difference in towing except for the weight difference and when backing or manuvering around objects.

[wildwest450]

The difference between 24 to 26 is miniscule. Don't sweat it...

[Robby9]

You will not notice the extra lenght. I went from 32' to 34' to 36' in three years. None of the changes were a big deal.

Just take your time learning to tow. It's not hard it just takes a little time.

Good luck and enjoy!

[esox07]

My guess is that if they hook one up to the back of your vehicle while you are in it and you go out and tow it for a test drive, you would have to ask them if it was the 21 or 24 footer back there. Probably not much difference. And doing a test tow if they will let you might be a good idea just to make sure you will be happy with the vehicle and trailer combination. I had a 04 blazer and purchased a 19 foot KZ Sportsmen classic. It was about 2600 dry. My blazer was rated to tow 5000 pounds so I figured with a couple passengers and a few hundred pounds of gear, I would still be well under 4000 so no problem with the blazer and 5000 pound capacity. Wrong. You have to remember that most TT are not built for aerodynamics. It is close to the same thing as towing a parachute down the highway at 65 mph. I could do it but the blazer couldn't stay in OD for sure, not even at 55. I felt like driving 65 with it was pushing it to extremes with RPMs a bit over 3000 and higher for hills. I have since traded up to a 2013 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L and HD Towing package and now I can relax on the trip out to the camp ground. So, don't make the mistake of buying more trailer than you can realistically pull for any significant distance. Not unless you want an excuse to trade up the tow vehicle as well.
Bruce

[Markiemark32]

Both smaller in the scheme things, I started off with a 24 ft, brand new to pulling a trailer.

Either one, you will adjust and learn, don't believe there would be a differnece between the two.

I went to a empty school parking lot and practiced backing it up in the beginning. Takes time and you will get comfortable with experience.

Good luck and get out make adventures!

Markiemark