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Trailer weights?

Jayco23FB
Explorer
Explorer
Dry Axle Weight (approx. Lbs.): 5600
Dry Hitch Weight (approx. Lbs.): 870
Gross Dry Weight - Lbs.: 6470
Net Carrying Capacity: 3530
Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) - Lbs.: 10000

Heres a question I am trying to figure out.
The weights above are for a trailer we are looking at.
I understand the GVWR 10000 is the total weight I can place on this unit.
I understand that 870 is the weight on my hitch.
Gross dry weight is GVRW + Dry hitch weight. Why is this measurement important?
Thanks
Jayco G2 23FB
2007 Chevrolet 2500HD 6.0L
7 REPLIES 7

handye9
Explorer II
Explorer II
Jayco23FB wrote:
Gross dry weight is GVRW + Dry hitch weight. Why is this measurement important?
Thanks


It's only important to the commercial driver, hauling it from factory to dealer.

Once you get it home and start loading your stuff, those numbers will mean nothing.

You will have a higher axle weight, higher tongue weight, and a lower cargo capacity. Only thing that will stay the same, 10,000 lb GVWR.
18 Nissan Titan XD
12 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Wife and I
Retired Navy Master Chief (retired since 1995)

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
It is curious that they would give you the axel weight and the hitch weight separately then the combined number, unless it is a handy indicator of minimum tire size.

My TT sticker is equally confusing; it lists the UVW at 4978 then the base weight at 5004. I do not know where the extra 26 lbs. came from and my manual was of no help.

But you have the numbers and that is what is important. Your 870 lbs. tongue wieght would eat up most of my F150โ€™s max cargo limit.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Francesca_Knowl
Explorer
Explorer
Jayco23FB wrote:
Dry Axle Weight (approx. Lbs.): 5600
Dry Hitch Weight (approx. Lbs.): 870
Gross Dry Weight - Lbs.: 6470
Net Carrying Capacity: 3530
Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) - Lbs.: 10000

Heres a question I am trying to figure out.
The weights above are for a trailer we are looking at.
I understand the GVWR 10000 is the total weight I can place on this unit.
I understand that 870 is the weight on my hitch.
Gross dry weight is GVRW + Dry hitch weight. Why is this measurement important?
Thanks

Gross dry weight is exactly the TOTAL of axle and hitch added to gether. It's what the trailer weighs before you've put so much as a pair of socks in it. In your case, that's 6470 pounds.

"GVWR' is the absolute maximum that the trailer CAN weigh. Subtracting gross dry weight from that number you get the weight you are allowed to add to the trailer, also known as net carrying capacity or "payload".

Again speaking in your case: 10,000 minus 6470 is 3530- payload/carrying capacity exactly as stated by your manufacturer. At least ten percent of total trailer weight should be on the tongue, if your question is how to determine the ultimate proper hitch weight.
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien

Tequila
Explorer
Explorer
Yea, You can solve the hitch problem with a Torklift Super hitch. (also handy as you have 2 different height receivers to choose from.) The cost of that is about 1/2 since you do not need the extension it is designed to support. Maybe supersprings or air bags on the rear. The rest comes down to the power of the engine.

The GVWR of your truck for which 10000 would indicate you need a 1 ton, is mainly important for those using Truck campers where all the weight is in the bed and the weight of the RV is straining the braking, which is not the case with a TT. Your important figure is the GAWR which is the distributed weight on your axles due to tongue weight, and weight transferred forward by equalizer bars. Most 1/2 tons may be OK, with the proper hitch, but your concern is pulling power.

If your truck is at the top end of what it can handle, I would also consider Torklift stable loads to minimize the effect of side to side motion the trailer may impart and at least a set of airbags.

Before signing on the dotted line, I would hitch up the trailer with equalizer bars and make sure you are not on your rear overloads and remember it is not yet loaded. From your photo it looks like you have a 3/4 ton so you should have no issues. I would still do the mods if you are going heavier.

FastEagle
Explorer
Explorer
The trailerโ€™s hitch weight and GVWR are not used in the context you have described.

The trailerโ€™s hitch weight and combined GAWR must equal or exceed the GVWR.

Once you start loading a RV trailer the only way to see if youโ€™re exceeding the GVWR is to load it and take it to some scales. The figures you get with a new - to you - trailer are mostly ballpark figures to use as loading references. Probably the most important weights are what the axles are actually carrying and how much of the trailers weight is on the hitch after youโ€™ve loaded it for a camping trip.

FastEagle

hmknightnc
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure what you're asking but here is what the numbers are telling you:
- unloaded tongue weight is approx 15% (kind of heavy)
- at a 15% rate the tongue weight fully loaded could be 1500#

That trailer is going to need a class V hitch and heavy duty bars. 3/4 ton or larger to carry that trailer. There might be some 1/2 tons that can do it in theory but it would be really pushing it and is assuming you can get a 1/2 capable of supporting a class V hitch.

kaydeejay
Explorer
Explorer
:h Sorry, you post makes no sense. How can the gross dry weight (whatever that is) equal 10,000# (GVWR) PLUS 870# (Tongue weight) when you have already quoted a number of 6470#?
Now if you had said the Gross dry weight was the dry axle weight plus the dry hitch weight, it would make a lot more sense, but I still don't understand the question.
The only value of that Gross Dry Weight number is that it allows you to calculate the Maximum Cargo Capacity.
In your case that is 10,000# minus the 6470#, which matches your other quoted number of 3530#
Keith J.
Sold the fiver and looking for a DP, but not in any hurry right now.