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We are fulltime campers in a TT 2013 surveyor sv294

Deetellezrobles
Explorer
Explorer
In back we have quad bunks beds. I would love to convert one side into a closet? Any here done this yet??
8 REPLIES 8

Boband4
Explorer
Explorer
If you want or need the bar, then the advice about using 2x4 to transfer the weight to the floor is the way to go. The quad bunks I have seen, mine included, have an outdoor accessible compartment under the bottom bunk. I bring this up just to remind you to look all around what is above , next to, and below the conversion area to ensure you are taking all of tbe affected spaces into consideration.

Deetellezrobles
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all of you that answered! And yes, we need a closet to hang clothes. I love this lifestyle, just need closet space. I also want something that can hold the weight, and that we can take down if we ever want to trade this TT in.

1ofmany
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Are you handy?

It's your trailer.....have at it!
Agree...we had a "neighbor" at one campground that did that very thing. Probably should keep in mind the need to allow for "moving" things, like slides.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
If you remove one side of the bunks and turn it into a closet, and you are planning on hanging your clothes from a cloths bar, you will have a lot of weight on that bar and the bouncing will eventually cause failure.

Here's a suggestion. I did this once in a bed room we turned into a closet and it supported a horrific amount of clothing!

Take 2 two-by-fours and put them upright. Then support the clothes bar from the top of 2x4's. Or as I did, I drilled large holes so the pole would go through them. Then put one support pole in the middle the same way, with a hold large enough the bar will slide through it.

Attach both 2x4's to the wall and the middle one, toe-nail it to the floor so it won't move. You may want to put a shelf over the top, then anchor the middle one (top) to the shelf to keep it from moving.

The weight of the clothing is then, NOT pulling on the wall, but on the 2x4 resting on the floor. But it will also be attached to the wall on both ends, so the wall will assume some weight also. This will make a very stable hanging clothes bar that will be able to withstand the worst of bouncing.

And yes, I suggest using a metal pole for the clothes bar, not wood.

This worked very well for us, especially since the house was rental, and when we moved out, we simply removed the uprights and the whole thing came down. A bit a spackling over the holes in the wall, and fresh paint, and we got all our deposit back. Worked great. It should work for your camper too, except you can install it a bit more permanent than we did in that house.

(I actually made 3 racks, the entire length of the room, about 5 feet apart, enough space between them we could walk. Back then we had 2 young kids and I was in the military, so we had a BUNCH of clothing, military and civilian.

Funny, now almost every item of clothing we have fits comfortably in the camper! Closet in the house is like a skeleton! How times change.

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
You said closet and everyone thinks you are talking about a hanging closet. Are you? I added shelves to my closet and then just fold my clothes neatly and put them on the shelf.

I'm not going camping in a suit and I don't carry any clothes with me I need to hang up. Your situation may be different.

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
You might fab up something that locks in place over the top of the clothes hangers to keep them from bouncing. Wouldn't take much. Maybe a 1/2" dowel that you could just bungee in place.

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't see any reason not to do it, just a word of caution. Clothes weigh a lot and they bounce up and down. When you put in the pole, I'd use a piece of pipe instead of a standard wooden hanger pole. While you need to attach it to the end walls to keep it in place, the end walls of former bunks can't handle all of that weight. Use 1x4s or 2x4s at the ends of the pipe to support the actual weight onto the floor. Maybe even a support in the middle of the pipe also. If you're not over a frame rail in the floor, use some extra support where the 2x4 will be on the floor like a piece of 3/4" plywood under it.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Are you handy?

It's your trailer.....have at it!
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31