Weight distribution chains stretched too tight?

[GateMaster97]

I've got a question regarding my weight distribution hitch setup... when I tow the trailer and install the weight distribution bars, leaving two links at the top seems to not have the chains very tight and my gas mileage was horrible, and the truck seems to sag in the back more than I'd expect... So, this past weekend I pulled the chains tighter (3 free links at the top) and the chains were much tighter, and my gas mileage improved by at least 3 mpg which might be a coincidence. I took a picture of the installation with the tighter chains (see below), do they look too tight and is it possible to get them too tight where they would break? Thanks for the help.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2d34veHiRN6TmdONUFoeTJuSm8/edit?usp=sharing

[93Cobra2771]

GateMaster97 wrote:

93Cobra2771 wrote:
I wouldn't be concerned with age. Also, in case you didn't see my post above, your bottom mount coupler complicates things...

Sorry I'm not familar with the term bottom mount coupler... what part of this setup is considered "bottom mount" and what type of hitch can I buy that might make it simpler? Thanks!

Well explained what te bottoming coupler is a post or two down from your question.

Regarding the type hitch, a Trunion type will be easier to set up.

You will not be able to get the spring bars parallel to the frame. Most important part is you still have clearance so they won't hit in the corners.

[Wishbone51]

With all the help here, I was able to adjust my hitch... Much nicer now. When at the proper tension, the bars were actually a bit higher than the frame. Now the bars are level. Heading off to camp for 4 nights.. We'll see how it handles.

[DiskDoctr]

This is the most comprehensive guide I've found. The WDH has a single purpose- to distribute the weight of the trailer/tongue to the TOW VEHICLE.

Here is the PDF:
http://www.diskdoctor.us/camper/uploaded/How%20to%20Adjust%20the%20Weight%20Distributing%20Hitch.pdf

Apologies to the original author, I didn't keep the original link, this is from my archives.

[DustyR]

Huntindog wrote:
Proper setup is a lot more involved than just what link the chain is on.
You really need to read the sticky on this.WD setuo

X2

[blams2004]

When I look at the picture it seems the bars are pointed up in the back which would mean you need to change the hitch angle down more. Mine has washers that go in to change the angle and I was very surprised when I got the new truck how much I had to change the angle to get the bars close to level. As others have pointed to the sticky on the WD setup is very helpful.

[goducks10]

With our last TT we also had a bottom mount coupler. In order for the bars to be parallel with the frame you can only use the last link. We ran the 2nd link down 90% of the time. Never made any difference. You just don't want the bar ends up so high near the frame that they could get in a bind on sharp turns.

I ran the 2nd link down because in order to get the right amount of transfer I had to have 6 washers in the EAZ-lift we were using. If I went with 7 washers and used the last link I had a devil of a time unhooking the coupler because it would bind up.

[myredracer]

The coupler is the round socket thing that the ball on hitch fits into. Your A-frame will be about 6" tall. Your coupler is mounted on the lower elevation of the A-frame. Most trailers these days have the coupler mounted on the upper elevation of the A-frame (6" higher than yours).

Setting up a WDH is different with a bottom mounted coupler. You should read through the instructions for the brand of WDH hitch you have and it should tell you how to do the setup for your type of coupler. If you don't have it, you may be able to find it online.

Have you measured the before and after heights of your front fenders? This will give you a pretty good idea if you have the WDH set up right. Typically you have 3-4 links left over on a top mounted coupler, but have no idea what it should be for a bottom mount one. Normally you want the round type spring bars approx. parallel to the ground and this it what you should aim for with the front fender height where it should be. The best thing you can do eventually is take your TV and trailer to a scale to confirm setup and to get some other info.

It does looks to me though like your bar angle is not set right.

[GateMaster97]

93Cobra2771 wrote:
I wouldn't be concerned with age. Also, in case you didn't see my post above, your bottom mount coupler complicates things...

Sorry I'm not familar with the term bottom mount coupler... what part of this setup is considered "bottom mount" and what type of hitch can I buy that might make it simpler? Thanks!

[Drum]

GateMaster97 wrote:
...Does anyone replace their chains after a certain number of years or uses due to chains are capable of stretching, becoming worn, fatigued, etc.?

I'm currently using the hitch, bars, and chains that my dad used back in the 70's to haul us around camping. They still look and work like new and I'd be willing to bet one of my kids will be using them 40 years from now.

[mich800]

ScottG wrote:
The number of links you use will have no bearing on gas mileage.

Maybe not the the degree the OP stated but if you are riding nose high in the truck that can impact MPG. That is the reason Ford went with the taller air dam after the job 1 2008 trucks. It improved MPG by cleaning up the air getting under the truck.

[93Cobra2771]

I wouldn't be concerned with age. Also, in case you didn't see my post above, your bottom mount coupler complicates things...

[GateMaster97]

Thanks for the help... I will read those two threads entirely and try to adjust my setup. The way you see the setup in the picture is how it was setup by the RV sales company where I bought my travel trailer... my setup is almost 10 years old now... bought my trailer in early 2004, should I look at replacing anything due to age?

[uzikaduzi]

as far as wear on the chains... there is were on the entire WDH... my e2 (which doesn't have chains) says that the product is only designed to be used for 10 years and that's not anything to do with warranty. on the other had, those chains are way stronger than you think... my father has a car hauling company and the chains they use to hold the cars down are similarly sized to the ones on a WDH. they crank them down to take out almost all of the suspension travel and then drive 65-70 mph down the highway and they drive 100k's miles per year like that... even in an extreme wreak where the trailer flipped the chains rarely break and the cars are still on the decks... even upside down sometimes.

[93Cobra2771]

beemerphile1 wrote:
You are asking the wrong questions. If anything it appears your hitch head angle is wrong.

Read this thread;
Weight Distribution (WD) Hitch --- How it Works

and then read this one, start from scratch and set up your hitch correctly;
Travel Trailer Hitch Set-up Procedure

One thing I did notice - he has a bottom mount coupler and round bar setup. 7 or 8 links will be all he can get unless he decreases his head tilt any more.

Friend of mine has the same type of setup. He runs with 7 or 8 links under tension like the OP. I personally helped him verify his setup and he is right on the money with his weights.

Unfortunately, most of the time a round bar setup gives the best clearance for the spring bars and such. In this particular case (and my friend's) a trunion style setup would be optimal. Those bottom mount couplers can be a bit of a pain on setup.