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Happijac lubrication

KKELLER14K
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks to the new Chrome extension, the pics are back! You must view in Chrome with the extention. Here is the link: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embedded-imag/ogipgokcopooepeipngiikdkpmcpkaon... .. It has been a misconception even on my part, that adding machine oil to the crank socket lubricates the jack itself. This is UNTRUE! I now have a complete tear down with pics to show everyone what goes on inside and how to disassemble and lube the working parts if need be. This is a little lengthy but most will find the education worth the read. This is a model 4150.

First you have to make a little tool like this. An old hanger works good. This will serve two purposes, explanations following.

Remove the two screws that hold on the motor.

Pull the motor off the jack.

Pull out the spring loaded socket.


Remove the lever and pin...a pair of flush wire cutters works well. Wedge them underneath and they pop right out.


Remove the internal plastic manual mechanism...note how this is installed. one side has a round hole and the other an oval shape where the lever goes.



There is a "C" clip here, you need to remove it with the little tool you made. Just put it in from the side and pull back. It will pop right out.


Once you get the clip off then pull out the manual socket.


This is the hole in the socket that is to be oiled, but as you can see in the next few pics, the only thing that is being lubed is the socket itself.

Once you pull out the socket, remove the manual gear.

Now as you can see the oil really goes nowhere. There is actually a lot of grease here. What your going to do next is pull this gear off that shaft straight towards you. Use that tool again to hook the gear from behind and pull it. You may have to do it a few times, the shaft gets a little burr on it but if it gets stuck ,just push it down and keep yanking, it will come off!

Once the gear comes off, this is what the back looks like. It has two slots. The slot that has the closed ends is what holds the pin in place. IT IS IMPORTANT YOU PUT THIS BACK TOGETHER THE WAY IT COMES APART!

Rotate the shaft so the pin is facing towards the corner and pull it out.

Now pull the leg assembly out of the jack housing.

Get ready to inspect and re lube.






Pull this cinch spring off and inspect this bearing.


Use an air ratchet or drill to turn the worm screw all the way out, inspect and re lube.

Re-assembly is just the opposite of the tear down. I found that even though this jack was sticking on me, it was still pretty well lubed, but maybe not enough.....Hope this dispels any unknown facts as to how these things work. One other note is that if the worm drive of the leg was to wear out...seems like you should be able to replace it rather than the whole jack. MMMMMM...haven't got to that yet but I wonder if they sell it seperatly? Does any one know?
225 REPLIES 225

Bleugoat
Explorer
Explorer
Many thanks for this thread.

Mine were in bad shape and I discovered a broken cinch spring in one upper unit. I will be ordering parts from Happijac as soon as I get back from Colorado.
2003 Dodge 3/4 T Cummins
2005 Outfitter Apex 8

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
I did spray antirust oil inside of the Outside tube and inside of the inner tube. I made a bit of a mess but it should stop rust a bit.

I will take them apart next year and see how it is. Once you get use to do it, it takes maybe 1 hour to remove, apart, rebuit, install.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

tdium
Explorer
Explorer
Some odds and sods:

I have used 4 coats of ZEP wax for my inner tubes. Made a horrible mistake coating them with light oil.

I believe there is a probability of capillary action working moisture up the inner tube from the ground. One of my 2002 vintage 4150's had rusted inside the outer tune and outside the inner tube quite badly. Could be the weather here in Ontario.

Just working on my first teardown of a 4150...all because of the generous sharing of knowledge here on this forum. Thanks all.
Tdium

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
No did not contact Hjac, I removed one washer. They are thrust washers and normaly only one washer is needed on each side of the bearing.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Kidoo wrote:
Just received the top assembly. One word of caution, the pin would not go in the top hole when trying to assemble the new unit. I took it appart, where the spring meet the two parts clutch, and there was TWO washers on one side of the bearing, very small washer but the pin would not go, took it off and no problem.


Did you contact Hjac to let them know about the issue?
I would be interested why they had 2 washers.

Did you just remove 1 washer?

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Just received the top assembly. One word of caution, the pin would not go in the top hole when trying to assemble the new unit. I took it appart, where the spring meet the two parts clutch, and there was TWO washers on one side of the bearing, very small washer but the pin would not go, took it off and no problem.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, one of the front jack really started to bind. The bearing was all torn and the Clutch/brake spring was broken. There was also one the pin in the connector that was bent, probably near to brake apart. One thing that really made it worst, probably what caused the binding, the o ring below the shaft connector was all destroyed to small pieces and some of those pieces got chaught in between the shaft and the recirculating ball screw that is in the inner tube.
This part is made of many little balls, I hope it will eventually all clear from the screw shaft. The other side is really smooth, not binding at all.

The rear 4150 jacks uses the ACME block instead of ball screw and the shaft is made a bit different with smooth groove, the front jack screw is a much smoother shaft.

I also took a look at the other outer tube today and 2 were also bent a little, not much, but I gave it a few wack to make them as straight as possible.

I ordered an upper assembly from Happijack because I cannot find the Clutch / Wrap spring. I will also buy some TC1018 thrust bearings and thrust washer and replace them on all jacks. I think these bearings should be cleaned at least every two years and relube and the o ring check to make sure they do not get destroyed, in all 4 of my shaft, the o ring where broken.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Kidoo wrote:
Just got the answer from Hapijac, they answered within a day! They sell the upper assy as a kit for 42 dollars. It includes all what is needed to fix the thing, bearing and washer, wrap clutch spring, connecting barrel and square plate.

They also sell everything else you need to fix your jack.


I am impressed! Kudos to Hjac!

It does seem that the rear jacks are a lot more reliable but they do not have to do the work that our front jacks do.

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Just got the answer from Hapijac, they answered within a day! They sell the upper assy as a kit for 42 dollars. It includes all what is needed to fix the thing, bearing and washer, wrap clutch spring, connecting barrel and square plate.

They also sell everything else you need to fix your jack.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
MeyerzLance wrote:
Kidoo wrote:


Hope the company will answer my request, otherwise I will not be a happy camper. Camper is only 5 years old without any abuse.


They sold me the parts I needed. Shouldn't be an issue


Thanks, that will make rebuild easier.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

meyerz1
Explorer
Explorer
Kidoo wrote:


Hope the company will answer my request, otherwise I will not be a happy camper. Camper is only 5 years old without any abuse.


They sold me the parts I needed. Shouldn't be an issue
2012 Ram 2500 short bed 6.7 Laramie
2007 Northstar

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Hoops.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Well, did not work as well for the other three. One has the spring broken, one has the bearing washer broken and worn, the other is rusted in and out but the mechanism works good. Hope I can order some spare parts from HappiJac.

The o ring between the barrel and bottom of the head are also all torn apart. I believe it brakes up like that when you get them to snug when they are up, it probably squeze the o ring too much. This cause the o ring to get in between the screw and the head and it created lots of dragging.

HOpe the company will answer my request, otherwise I will not be a happy camper. Camper is only 5 years old without any abuse.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

Kidoo
Explorer
Explorer
Got the happy jack apart, thanks for the thread. Mine was pretty good inside, well greased, gear shaft oily. I had to straighten the outer tube, It got hooked by the tie down when I was pulling away. I had a small curve in the outer tube but the inner one was ok, so it was binding a bit. I placed the tube on the ciment floor and a piece of wood over top and I hit it with a sledge hammer. It got back almost perfectly straight. The inner tube slides easily inside now. Just have to paint it and put it back on the camper, hope it works.
Monaco Cayman 34 2003, Cummins 300HP
Bigfoot 2008, 10.4, F350, 2006, Diesel 6.0, Black, 4x4, long box, Air lift, Rancho 9000, Rear sway bar.

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
woodhog wrote:
Hi Jim...

I was also wondering what instructions they gave Devildog, I did mine the way you showed me and it worked very well...

There was talk that the company would not give our the instructions due to so called liability issues...


That is absolutely correct! We will have to wait on Devildog to tell us what Hjac said and actually what he did.

I will say this, after I lubed my jacks the first time I have been a happi jac guy. I have done them 2 times.

Almost 14 years now... and I use the cr** out of mine.
I have had to sand some places on the outside tubes from rocks chipping the paint and then rust sets in... Otherwise... No other problems.



Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.