Little boondocking setup help?

[Kach]

I'm looking to get into some boondocking. I'd eventually like to have a solar setup, but starting with a generator and upgraded batteries for now. What is the bare minimum I need?

I'm looking at getting 2 golf cart 6v batteries and a 1000w or 2000w generator. I'm hoping to only use the genny for topping off the batteries and living off of the 12v system. Can anyone link me to a wiring diagram for the 2 6v batteries in series (for 12v) to make sure I get it right.

If I get the run of the mill Honda/Yamaha quiet generator, how should I wire that in. I'm just trying to keep it simple - the generators don't even have a 30a plug in. Sorry for the probably common question - I've been searching around and couldn't find quite what I'm trying to do...

Thanks!

[pnichols]

Kach wrote:
I'm having second thoughts about living without AC...

Neither would we tolerate an RV without AC. AC completes the "truly self-contained go anywhere anytime in comfort" aspect of an RV.

Like it or not, we often find ourselves unexpectedly in hot weather and our reasoning is ... why have to cut short or terminate our trip or go to a location we didn't count on just because Mother Nature decides to not cooperate.

The DW often wants a quick nap in the afternoon regardless of the weather, so if it's hot we just fire up the built-in generator and the AC so she can get a good rest. We even ran the AC off the large generator almost all night once in order to sleep in the extreme heat and humidity of the Southern U.S.. Our large generator is really very quiet for it's size and it will power the AC for about 2 1/2 hours on a gallon of gas - so the 55 gallon main vehicle fuel tank will provide power for the generator many hours over and above what we need to get into and out of campsites.

I suppose the (almost) ultimate setup would be a large generator for the AC, a small generator for battery charging when solar won't work, and solar for when you're camping in the sun. (Microwave ovens can always be run off an inverter powered by your batteries - no large generator is required in order to run the microwave for short time periods here and there.)

If cost was no object ... I'd prefer to have only a large generator for the AC and an automatic on-demand 24/7 silent fuel cell system for keeping the batteries topped up rain or shine night or day - just like many of the marine guys do.

[Kach]

Thanks for the tips! I'm getting ready for our first multi-day boondock in August (I will hopefully do some driveway testing ahead of time). I still need to buy a generator and may even try to rent one until I can further determine what I need/want. I'm having second thoughts about living without AC...

[pnichols]

Kach,

Your situation can be made very simple - no need to make it more complex than necessary. Just wire your two 6V batteries in series as you say, using cable as heavy as automotive jumper cables along with the proper lead or brass battery connectors available at any automotive parts store.

If you don't need air conditioning, but want to both charge your batteries and operate a small (900 watts or less) microwave in your RV (plus small appliances such as a TV, computer, etc.) all you need is a quiet little 1000 watt generator - such as a Honda EU1000i. You can plug any 30 amp RV almost directly into the Honda's 120V AC receptacle using a simple 30 amp to 15 amp adapter that plugs onto the end of your RV's 30 amp hookup cable and then plugging the adapter into the Honda's connector. We ordered our adapter from Camping World for a few bucks to do this.

We just completed a 9 day dry camping trip (parked in the shade the whole time) with two Group 29 12V batteries wired in parallel (about equal in capacity to your two 6V golf cart batteries in series) using a tiny little ultra-quiet Honda EX650 (650 watt) generator to top up the batteries about every 3rd day. This little generator runs at full power almost as quiet (54dBA) as a Honda UE1000i does when it's idling (53dBA).

We do have a microwave in the RV and air conditioning - which we use a large built-in generator for whenever needed ... but this large generator is not needed at all for any of our battery charging. We consider it as a boondocking luxury item mainly useful when the DW wants to dry her hair or when we're camping in the extreme heat.

We could go many weeks (not counting the grey, black, and fresh water tank capacities) this way regardless of whether the sun is shining or not ... how long we can go depends upon how much EX650 fuel we carry and how much propane we carry.

[sljohnson1938]

mlts22 wrote:
First, get a Honda eu2000i Companion, which does have the 30A plug, although you will need an adapter from the generator to the RV's 30A connector. Then you can go from there. Another 2000 watt Honda can be paired via a set of parallel cables, giving 3500 usable watts so you can run the A/C and such.

Having a reliable generator is the first step before even thinking of solar.

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AMEN - I have two Honda Eu2000i - one alone will not run the A/C on the 5er, but using two Honda's with the parallel kit I can plug in the 30amp plug from the RV.

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[69_Avion]

mlts22 wrote:
First, get a Honda eu2000i Companion, which does have the 30A plug, although you will need an adapter from the generator to the RV's 30A connector. Then you can go from there. Another 2000 watt Honda can be paired via a set of parallel cables, giving 3500 usable watts so you can run the A/C and such.

Having a reliable generator is the first step before even thinking of solar.

That is good advice.

[recycler]

the batteries are easy postive to negative to connect them together then hook up the remaining two as normal..first thing i would do was figure out your power draws..stuff like the fridge sometimes has 12v power for lighting the burners and running electronics.. convert to leds if can..
this may help shows how two six volts are wired

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2011/02/charging-6-volt-rv-batteries.html

[beemerphile1]

Dakzuki wrote:
...Do you have any 12V TV, or stereo that have remotes? Well in order to "hear" the remote they need power which means you have a parasitic load....

Good point, I never thought of that. In one trailer the tv works from an inverter so I turn the inverter off when not in use. In the other trailer though, the tv is plugged directly into 12v. I'm going to check how much current the 12v tv is using in standby.

[Dakzuki]

You also want to think about things you don't want sucking power. Do you have any 12V TV, or stereo that have remotes? Well in order to "hear" the remote they need power which means you have a parasitic load. Unplug them or put hard switches on them to kill them off dead. anything that is plugged into 12 volts may have a parasitic load even when turned off.

It's pretty cheap these days to convert your lights to LEDs which will help. They draw a fraction of the power of incandescent bulbs.

Catalytic heater.

Others have covered the generator thing pretty well.

[mlts22]

First, get a Honda eu2000i Companion, which does have the 30A plug, although you will need an adapter from the generator to the RV's 30A connector. Then you can go from there. Another 2000 watt Honda can be paired via a set of parallel cables, giving 3500 usable watts so you can run the A/C and such.

Having a reliable generator is the first step before even thinking of solar.

[pinesman]

Different people have different things that work for them and this is simply what works for us:
1. We carry extra fresh water in refillable 6 gal jerry jugs to put back in the onboard tank
2. I put real tires on our waste water tote do take gray water to the dump station
3. For electrical- use LED lights and turn off everything that you do not need. If you tow with an open truck, you can carry as many batteries in the back as you can afford or have room for. I have two sets of heavy duty jumper cables that I cut the ends off of. One set is hard wired to the onboard battery with a winch connector on the other end. Extra batteries are wired parallel in the back of the truck with the other set of cables attached and another winch connector. When I get to where I am going and unhook, I just hook the winch connectors together. This works for us.

[Lowsuv]

professer dan, i do not know if my battery voltage drops to 12.1 volts .
i never measure it .
i was an electrician when i was a kid in the late 1960's .
i learned about the refer control being voltage critical within the first dry camping we did in about 1995.
the refer tells me if my voltage is too low .
my rv batteries get charged on 120V the day before each trip and i fully disconnect the rv batts fully charged when i store my trailer .
i did upgrade to AGM Exide Edge for the 2 batts in my pickup.
my rv batts are old but work well . i will find some serious RV batts soon , even though i have no issues now .
we dry camp with others . i stole the 4 battery jumper cable trick from one of the older campers after observing him .
since then we have had never lost our refer controller .
the kind of camping we do always involves at least one other camper .
sometimes 8 or 9 units .
sometimes in a forest service type campground but just as often dispersed camping that is readily available .
a lot of our camping is outside .
we spend our days walking , hiking, mountain biking , in the lake , etc.
we always build large campfires and spend the evening retelling the same old stories until it is time to turn in .
we use the various LED headlamps and lanterns , but always use our propane coleman lantern to take the chill off the travel trailer while getting ready for bed .
we have a propane bottle mr buddy heater that does not use up battery capacity but will heat up our 21T komfort .
in the morning we always boil water on the inside stove for tea / hot chocolate .
this takes the chill off the trailer also.
we often do an early october campout with a big circle of friends .
the campfire runs all day and into the evening and is about a 4 foot diameter .
everybody helps get firewood because we like the warmth and comraderie .
we still do not stay in our trailers much .
we use a couple of EZ-UP Quik-Shades ourselves and so do our friends .
we mostly cook on a coleman stove and a portable grill .
so the trailer for us is just a place to sleep , take a shower , have a clean bathroom , and transport our gear to the camp spot .
we have an aftermarket mattress , use a down comforter , plenty of fleece blankets and are cozy even without 120V .

[JiminDenver]

Our panel is a SchottPoly 230w, the controller is a Eco-worthy 20a MPPT controller with two 25ft cords. SolarBlvd.com sells similar panels for around $150 plus shipping ($60 to Denver), the controller is $100 shipped and the cords are $32 shipped. If ever needed I have a 220w panel that I can get going for the $132 the controller and wires cost.

I am still testing but eventually want to mount one or both. Right now I have the 230w portable and I start tracking the sun in the morning. We get a lot of sun in the early morning and storms by noon, luckily it doesn't take much to replace what we use over night. Once the battery is in float, it stays there all day.

[profdant139]

Jim, the solar took care of all of your needs, even in rainy weather?? That's impressive! What sort of panels and controller are you using, and are they roof-mounted? Thanks in advance for the answers.

[JiminDenver]

Lowsuv wrote:

to help conserve juice we use the LED headband lights in the campground , a propane lantern in the colder nights to take the chill off the trailer when turning in and on very rare occasion our mr. buddy propane heater .
you can buy a lot of AA batteries , and propane bottles for the price of a solar panel .

You are right, $400 will buy a lot of batteries and propane. The difference is the level of comfort. The one thing I know is the more comfy honey is, the more often we go.

For 25 years we have roughed it and used many of the tricks you suggest including the jumper cables. Even our first trip boondocking with this trailer we did it. It was stock so no LEDs, generator or solar, we made a grp 27 last 3 days. When it was cold during the day (40*) we wore coats and even hats. When it dipped to the 20s at night we set the stat at it's lowest point just to keep us and the dogs from freezing. The lantern trick worked a lot better in the 13 ft trailer than the 25 ft.
Battery operated LED and florescent lights kept us from tripping over our black dogs but still it was pretty dim. After 3 days we decided to extend the trip and that's when I started using the jumper cables.
We had fun but Honey decided it was time to put the cover on and get going in the spring next year when it warmed up.

The next year we got the generator and LEDs. The generator was better than running the truck but we knew as soon as it shut off the ticker was running on the single Grp 27, so we still conserved.

This last trip with the solar, we camped like pigs. It was a cool and rainy trip so the stat was set on 72 day and night. We didn't turn on a few LEDs just to get around, we lit the trailer from end to end. In fact between the furnace, fans, lights and a small inverter something was always running.

In the end the best part wasn't that I never had to worry about the battery or listen to the generator charge it up every day, it was Honey saying we need to go out every other week. That's worth every penny spent.