2006 Jayco Seneca Solar Installation - Help Required

[dunk_0]

Hello,

I recently purchased my first RV, a 2006 Jayco Seneca. I race cars and mainly plan to use it at the racetrack, but will also use it several times a year for camping. I'd like to install a battery/inverter/solar system that's capable for limited boondocking, both at the tracks for when power is not easily available, and for camping in remote areas. I installed 4 6v Costco GC batteries in my last trailer, and a simple 1000w inverter to run the fridge, but am looking for something a little more with this setup.

Below I've posted a skeleton of what my current system thoughts are, but there are lots of holes. I'm looking for recommendations on components, vendors, and help to make sure I don't miss anything in my shopping list. I have a fabrication background and am very comfortable doing the installation myself.

Part 1: Batteries.
Currently the coach has two 12v deep cycle batteries located all the way in the rear of the coach. There's not room in the compartment for an additional two batteries, although there's a compartment on the other side that's suitable.

However, I am concerned that four batteries, replacing two, plus a heavy inverter all the way rear in the RV, plus the tongue weight of the trailer, is going to be too much weight. I'm already close to the rear axle limit, even with the weight distribution hitch.

It might be possible to move the batteries to a forward compartment, but some significant bracing will be needed to make the compartment robust enough to support the weight.

2. Inverter. I had planned to use the Magnum MS2000 with the remote monitor and BMK. I'll remove the factory charge converter. There is no factory installed inverter.

3. Subpanel. Paneltronics Circuit Breaker Panel for outlights, microwave, TVs.

4. Solar. Here's where I think I need the most help. I've looked at a few websites, with kits from 160-400 watts, all for around $1000.00. I posted the links below. I'm not sure how much I need, but I'd prefer to build a system with decent bones, so if it turns out I need to add additional capacity I'm not re-purchasing electronics and wire.


As this is my first RV, and first system of this type, any and all advice is appreciated. As I progress with the installation, I plan to document there and post lots of pictures.

http://www.wholesalesolar.com/rv-marine

http://bhasolar.com/142.html

http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=108
thanks,

Duncan

[dunk_0]

Well,

After some testing it turns out that one of my new panels are defective. I was doing some testing in full sun today and maxing out around 15 amps. Doing some testing on the roof I determined that one panel, although it registered 19 volts, is not putting out any amps. I tested all the panels with a test of test cables straight from the panel connection to the combiner box.

It would have been more convenient to discover this before mounting them to the roof. Due to nature of how the Renogy brackets attached (bottom of the panel frame) I think I'll have to pry the VHB tape up to remove it.

Duncan

[dunk_0]

Not yet. Just finished up. I plan to do some testing over the next few weeks.

[westend]

Nice!
Have any output numbers to share?

[dunk_0]

Finished up yesterday.

Installed the battery box. Not too bad with two people and a hydraulic table.


Mounted the combiner box on the roof.


Starting to install panels






Fridge vent back in place.


Pretty much wrapped up


Duncan

[dunk_0]

Combiner box fitting arrived.


Installing this will be unpleasant. I'm hoping to lift it with a floor jack or hydraulic table and slide it in the bay.

[dunk_0]

Any suggestions on panel locations?

[dunk_0]

Built the combiner box today. Still need a few fittings.



Also need to finalize the panel location. There will be four 100w panels, which are approximately 48 x 24" each.

[westend]

You're welcome.
I know a guy is serious if he uses a trim washer under fasteners.:)

Do you have double pole switch in the mix for transferring power input from shore to inverted or is that handled by the inverter?

[dunk_0]

westend wrote:
Thanks, a;ways nice to see a good installation completed. The subpanel is a beauty!

Now all you have to figure is how you're going to use all the power, and beyond, lol.

If you have some time, please, post back to this thread or start another with the operation of your inverter powered devices (fridge!). There are members asking about 120V or 12V fridges and the relationship between batteries, inverter, and fridge while using solar.

Thanks. The subpanel is 1/4 aluminum plate that I rounded the edges over, sandblasted, and powder coated. I bought the vents from McMaster.

It's removable since it serves as an access to the back of the panel. Jayco had just used a 12 x 14 furnace vent.

I'm hoping to get the rest of it finished up by next weekend. Tomorrow I plan to build the combiner box. The panels should arrive during the middle of the week, and then I'll install the panels and the batteries .

Duncan

[westend]

Thanks, a;ways nice to see a good installation completed. The subpanel is a beauty!

Now all you have to figure is how you're going to use all the power, and beyond, lol.

If you have some time, please, post back to this thread or start another with the operation of your inverter powered devices (fridge!). There are members asking about 120V or 12V fridges and the relationship between batteries, inverter, and fridge while using solar.

[dunk_0]

Some more work today.

Got the subpanel finished.




Inverter mounted.


Charge controller


Battery monitor


Panel for the inverter

Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[dunk_0]

Finally got this project off the ground, after a few months of acquiring pieces.

I decided to locate the inverter and battery in the two forward most driver's storage compartments. They're just made of plastic, and I was concerned about the weight of the components so I started by fabricating some steel racks. They tie the outer storage compartment frame, which is metal, back to the frame rail.







I also spent some time inside the coach outlining the location of the sub-panel, inverter panel, and Trimetric 2030RV battery monitor. While doing that, I noticed that the 50amp main electrical line into the panel was nicked all the way to the copper. The picture is after pulling it out the back of the box, but only the paper liner in the wire was separating the ground from the hot leg.



-Duncan

[TheWB]

I'm currently installing my own. Not the high requirements you've got, but you may want to check out these guys.

Renogy - off grid kits.
each kits breaks down to the individual components. I bought mine piece by piece over time.

[atperci]

Duncan,

I think we got confused when you stated the "RV" and trailer tongue weight in the same sentence. My mind immediately thought your RV was a trailer. Then I realized the Seneca is a motorhome and you're towing a trailer with the MH.

Since you're close to the South Bay Area, check out ML Solar in Campbell. They have great prices, and since you can drive there pretty easily, you can put the extra $$$ you save from shipping toward more or better equipment. I've bought from them before and they were good guys. They constantly have ads on Craig's list here in our area.

One rule of thumb for solar is to have at least 1-1.5 watts of solar for every amp-hour of battery capacity. I have 410 watts of solar for my 220 amp-hours of storage. Like you, I'm stuck with room for only 2 GC batteries in the current location, but want add 2 more.

If the refrigerator vent is "close" to the combiner box and the wiring run isn't too far to the charge controller and then on to batteries, then the vent is probably the easiest way to go. Of course the larger the wire used (though more expensive,) the less the wire run length a problem. But, use high voltage panels and it work fine.

Good luck,
Tom