BACKGROUND
While camping we use the trailer's corner stabilizing jacks and we chock the wheels securely. Nevertheless, when someone is moving around in the trailer it's easily felt by those who are stationary. That's what led us to this mod - a third set of stabilizing jacks near the centre of the trailer to reduce the bounce and wiggle when parked.
These are scissor jacks rated at 2268 kg (5000 lbs) each. We got the pair on sale at Princess Auto for just under $50.
ISSUES
On the curb side of the trailer there is a propane line attached to and hanging down from the inside of the frame - you can see it in the photo above. My first thought was to use a spacer.
On closer inspection, I found I could centre the flange by grinding off a bit of the jack brackets.
(As it turns out, x=3/8")
Excess removed.
The brackets are painted and reinstalled on the jack.
While camping we use the trailer's corner stabilizing jacks and we chock the wheels securely. Nevertheless, when someone is moving around in the trailer it's easily felt by those who are stationary. That's what led us to this mod - a third set of stabilizing jacks near the centre of the trailer to reduce the bounce and wiggle when parked.
These are scissor jacks rated at 2268 kg (5000 lbs) each. We got the pair on sale at Princess Auto for just under $50.
ISSUES
On the curb side of the trailer there is a propane line attached to and hanging down from the inside of the frame - you can see it in the photo above. My first thought was to use a spacer.
On closer inspection, I found I could centre the flange by grinding off a bit of the jack brackets.
(As it turns out, x=3/8")
Excess removed.
The brackets are painted and reinstalled on the jack.
INSTALLATION
The jacks come with self-threading mounting screws (and a socket and drill adapter). The shank diameter of the screws is a shade over 11/32" so I will drill the mounting holes in that size.
I didn't do anything as fancy as finding the exact centre of the trailer; I wanted the jacks a little forward of the rear wheels so I centred the jacks on the midpoint between the wheels and the steps.
With the curb side jack in place, I marked the drilling locations with a hammer and transfer punch.
Drilling the holes was an adventure. I learned a lot about drilling into steel; some from others, some from experience:
- Drilling slow is the way to go, with just enough RPM to keep the bit turning
- High speed drilling:
- results in a painful shower of red-hot and needle-sharp twists of metal
- tends to break drill bits
- allows the steel to heat and cool, hardening it and dulling drill bits
- Dull drill bits are dangerous and time-wasting
- Sharp drill bits will eat through steel quickly even at low RPMs
- I have a lot to learn about sharpening drill bits
- Drilling upwards into a trailer frame while lying on your side is uncomfortable
- WD-40 makes a passable cutting fluid for drilling a trailer frame
- I still have a lot to learn about drilling into steel
I spread the drilling over the span of several days. Eventually the job was complete and I secured the jacks to the frame with the screws and thread lock.
A quick driveway test with all six stabilizers down reveals that most of the wiggle is gone. I think we can remove the remainder by chocking the wheels on both sides and tightening the centre jacks a little more.
The jacks come with self-threading mounting screws (and a socket and drill adapter). The shank diameter of the screws is a shade over 11/32" so I will drill the mounting holes in that size.
I didn't do anything as fancy as finding the exact centre of the trailer; I wanted the jacks a little forward of the rear wheels so I centred the jacks on the midpoint between the wheels and the steps.
With the curb side jack in place, I marked the drilling locations with a hammer and transfer punch.
Drilling the holes was an adventure. I learned a lot about drilling into steel; some from others, some from experience:
- Drilling slow is the way to go, with just enough RPM to keep the bit turning
- High speed drilling:
- results in a painful shower of red-hot and needle-sharp twists of metal
- tends to break drill bits
- allows the steel to heat and cool, hardening it and dulling drill bits
- Dull drill bits are dangerous and time-wasting
- Sharp drill bits will eat through steel quickly even at low RPMs
- I have a lot to learn about sharpening drill bits
- Drilling upwards into a trailer frame while lying on your side is uncomfortable
- WD-40 makes a passable cutting fluid for drilling a trailer frame
- I still have a lot to learn about drilling into steel
I spread the drilling over the span of several days. Eventually the job was complete and I secured the jacks to the frame with the screws and thread lock.
A quick driveway test with all six stabilizers down reveals that most of the wiggle is gone. I think we can remove the remainder by chocking the wheels on both sides and tightening the centre jacks a little more.
