Mickeyfan0805 wrote:
Our unit just turned 5 and is holding together beautifully. I want to keep it that way!
Over the past 5 years, I have done both spring and fall seal checks, placing self-leveling sealant over any locations where I found a crack. Now that the original sealant is 5 years old, I'm starting to consider moving to eternabond, but I'm not sure about putting it over the uneven sealant that is there.
For those of you who use Eternabond around your trailer, did you remove all of the sealant or simply place it over the existing and while making sure to get a clean seal on the edges?
This thread may help you. I never made it to posting here on RV.net.
Eternabond roof seal tape on a sunline (lots-of-pics)I added the E bond over the top of known good bonded Dicor. If the Dicor was questionable, I scraped up the bad stuff and put new down. Yours may not be old enough to be crumbled Dicor, but if there is any I would recommend getting the crumbled stuff up first.
If you do put fresh Dirco down, you need to wait a good amount of time for the Dicor to gas off. This can be several weeks to a month. The GM at E bond told me that. If it is not gassed off enough, then gas pockets can form under the E bond.
The Dicro needs to be clean, very clean. You can wash the roof to get the big dirt off but still need to spot clean the area the E bond is going on with chemical cleaner. If you have heavy dirt to clean out of nooks and crannies, using mineral spirits on a rag only and rub. Work quickly and do not let it run on the EPDM and soak. Wipe it dry then follow up with a high flash cleaner to remove any traces of mineral oil film. This can be Eternaclean, naphtha (this is the brand I use sold at the local Menards lumber yard (
Sunnyside Naphtha) Or if you are into auto painting PPG DX-330 acrylic clean. Acetone will work for cleaning but if you have an aluminum sided camper it will take the paint off too shiny silver in some cases. So be careful where acetone is used.
Mineral spirits cuts the dirt and the high flash cleaner takes off the mineral spirits if there is any residue. The high flash cleaners are not the greatest on embedded dirt. You can try them first and if it is clean, then good and no need to do the fast mineral spirits treatment. You have to use these cleaners to prep correctly but you have to be precise to the area, not let it soak in the rubber and be quick. Do small areas at a time.
If while going over bumpy Dicor an air pocket forms in the middle of the E bond tape, there is a tips and tricks note from Ebond in the roll. Gently create a small 1/32 - 1/16" slit in the white layer of the tape in the middle of the bubble to create a vent and press out the air and then press the E bond sealant to seal it up. You can Dicor the slit or tiny hole if wanted on the white layer.
I also found using the liquid Eterna Prime in the quart can creates super stick on steroids.... The spray type works too but gets all over. You can brush on the liquid right where you need it. While this is not always needed, if you have questionable areas with lots of bumps or other surfaces using the primer insures you will have a bond.
I now use it in all places to have the added insurnace the tape is not coming up. You really have to keep the silicone release paper on until the last moment. Only unpeel a small amount to get the E bond started, then peel off a few more inches and press it down, then peel some more and keep going in these more controlled 6 to 8" long press and seal steps. If you use primer and that tape just touches the E bond sealant, it is stuck and not coming back up.
I have also learned how to get E bond off. Completely if needed. This can be from a "goof" or to do a repair that you had to get under the area that is E bonded. Like a cracked shower dome sealed down by E bond etc. Get a heat gun, a very dull metal scraper, (all edges must be sanded ground dull, no sharp edge.) a new drywall knife and a small piece of OSB board or other junk plywood.
1. Very gently, surgically cut the top white layer only of the E bond.
2. Warm the area you want to lift up. Do not stand in one place with the heat gun, keep it moving to not burn.
3. After a minute or less, use the dull putty knife with gloves on and gently scrape up the E bond. If there is metal under the E bond you can push harder, if there is rubber, push gently.
4. The E bond will peel up and it is very hot, it will burn you if it touches your skin.
5. Scrape off the hot goo on the edge of the OSB.
6. Repeat the heat and scrape until the E bond is almost totally up.
7. The little stringers and light film of Ebond left will come up with mineral spits on a rag, followed by the high flash cleaner to get the mineral spirits off.
On the exposed edge of the E bond tape on the roof, appling a small bead of non leveling (no sag) Dicor on that edge will stop dirt from sticking to it. Using some liquid soap in water and using a wet finger, you can smooth out the dicor and never get any on you. Just keep the finger wet. Tapping the Dicor down first then smooth works better then going right to smoothing it out. Once you break into the skinned over dicor, it's a mess. Key is smooth it and not break in the skin. Tapping it down helps control the process.
Hope this helps
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
