Generator Box

[TheGatherer]

I built this generator box about 6-7 years ago and had it on a former TT. So, the new TT came into the yard and I extended the bumper using 2 1.4x2 1/4x1/8" angle with 'bed frame cross pieces. Foremost in my mind was 'save weight' but make it strong... Between the 'box' and the TT I put a piece of sheet metal to keep the air/water from blowing up behind the TT. The box had to be pretty far back because of the TT back angle. The 'box' was built for a Boiley inverter generator to be placed in the center compartment. It had good air flow and I piped the exhaust out the rear. I put a door in the side to operate all the controls. It was very economical and 'light' at 75lbs, but the inverter stopped 'inverting' and I bought a Honda 3000si inverter generator..
Now the weight became a factor with the Honda weighing in at 140lbs. The Honda is really a good generator and economical, but there is no 'tailpipe'. So, I had to use one 'side' compartment for the exhaust and duct it through that and out the bottom. I tried to buy 'shock absorbers' insulate the vibration but they were too expensive for the number I needed (livin' in poverty pocket you get creative). I used a 2" hole saw to cut shock rubbers from a 'horse stall' foam pad from Tractor Supply. After cutting a few I decided to cut holes in the pad to place under the generator to save weight. I have yet to put the generator in the box (I used it 2 years with the other TT) since I rebuilt the 'rack' and vibration insulators. That post will come soon...
this compartment is the exhaust I need to put the cover back on the 'bare wires'...
To explain the construction of the 'box' the bottom is a 'cargo carrier', the top was cut from a Ford Ranger size tool box, the sides were a 4'x8' sheet of aluminum cut to 20" wide and was bent at a friends sheet metal shop, a few pieces of 1/2" in aluminum angle about a 'thousand' pop rivets, some wire screen from C-band satelite dish, some cans of gray primer for the inside, a few cans of brown for the outside color, insulated for sound mostly as the exhaust temp on the 'uninsulated' box is about(measured) 140 degrees. I was going to take out the insulation but it only weighs about 3-4lbs..

[TheGatherer]

I looked at the bezel you mentioned and it would have used the compartment as I would still have to direct the large pipe down and out or cut a hole in the side of the box. The 'cool' air intake is the screen covered floor under the 'cord connection', when the generator is in place the it pulls cool air in from that area. When the generator is 'runnin'' the exhaust flows out the compartment real well... I looked at your design,... it looked real good...

Okay, I'll just add to this post... Now I have the generator in the box and this is my design to vent the intake/exhaust and it works great according to my temp measurements and 'good old wet your finger' and feel the air movement. I'm using the generators fan to move the intake/exhaust air, Honda has a good design for that so I'm taking advantage of it..

[SoundGuy]

Unfortunately yours in the wrong approach for any of the EU series inverter gensets which were designed very carefully by Honda engineers to use the genset case itself to draw in cool intake air while simultaneously keeping it separate from hot cooling air and hot exhaust gas which both need to be vented out. I built my own EU2000i Quiet Box around these principles which also apply to the EU3000i. Alternately you could modify your EU3000i by replacing it's exhaust bezel with this custom design from Generator Line which will allow you build a proper sound enclosure box that will keep these various gases separated, as intended by Honda engineers.