Hooking up backup camera in 1984 Vanguard

[kvg4]

Hello All,

I'm trying to hook up a wireless backup camera to my class C 1984 Vanguard.

The camera and transmitter are wired into the reverse light so that the image comes on when put into reverse. But I am getting no image.

Maybe it's a wiring problem? Has anyone successfully done this on an old motorhome? All the videos and tutorials I come across are for newer vehicles.

Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

[kvg4]

jrloucks wrote:
Well, here are some things to test:

1. Without the engine running, measure the voltage level on your class c chassis battery's terminals (this is the battery that starts the engine, not the 'house' battery). If it's the same (7-10v) as what you measured at the lights on the rear of your rig. You may simply have a bad or discharged chassis battery.

2. Start the engine (assuming you can) and again measure the voltage of your chassis battery's terminals. It should read 12v+ indicating the engine's alternator is charging the battery/system properly. With the engine still running, again measure the voltage level at the rear lights. If the two voltage measurements match (12v+) then this may also result in your back-up camera now working. (Again you may have a bad or discharged chassis battery.)

3. However, with the engine running, if you measure 12+ volts on your chassis battery and still measure 7-10v on the rear lights, that tells me there is a short or poor electrical connection on the rear lights somewhere. This is usually the result of a poor chassis ground connection. You can confirm a chassis grounding problem by connecting one end of a temporary wire to a good chassis/frame ground point and again measuring the voltage level at the rear lights using the temporary ground wire as the ground (negative) connection point. If the voltage level improves (12+), then you'll need to check all the ground connections on all the rear lights. Look for corroded screws, oxidation on bare wires and fix accordingly.

Thanks for these suggestions!

The chassis battery is running full at 12.5V. I believe I tested them with the engine running before but can't be certain so I will check again. Might be a ground issue. I'll bring this info to my friend who is helping me out and we'll test some things out. I appreciate your help!

[jrloucks]

Well, here are some things to test:

1. Without the engine running, measure the voltage level on your class c chassis battery's terminals (this is the battery that starts the engine, not the 'house' battery). If it's the same (7-10v) as what you measured at the lights on the rear of your rig. You may simply have a bad or discharged chassis battery.

2. Start the engine (assuming you can) and again measure the voltage of your chassis battery's terminals. It should read 12v+ indicating the engine's alternator is charging the battery/system properly. With the engine still running, again measure the voltage level at the rear lights. If the two voltage measurements match (12v+) then this may also result in your back-up camera now working. (Again you may have a bad or discharged chassis battery.)

3. However, with the engine running, if you measure 12+ volts on your chassis battery and still measure 7-10v on the rear lights, that tells me there is a short or poor electrical connection on the rear lights somewhere. This is usually the result of a poor chassis ground connection. You can confirm a chassis grounding problem by connecting one end of a temporary wire to a good chassis/frame ground point and again measuring the voltage level at the rear lights using the temporary ground wire as the ground (negative) connection point. If the voltage level improves (12+), then you'll need to check all the ground connections on all the rear lights. Look for corroded screws, oxidation on bare wires and fix accordingly.

[kvg4]

jrloucks wrote:
Also, 7-10vdc may not be enough to turn on the camera. The camera may have a minimum voltage to operate, which may be closer to 12vdc. The installation manual 'should' provide technical specifications for the input power to the camera. e.g. "Input Voltage DC12~24" If not, the camera itself may have the input voltage stamped on it.

That's what I am thinking is the problem. It does say 12-24V and worked perfectly fine on a 12V battery. Do you have any insights as to why my reverse lights and tail lights are only outputting 7-10V?

[jrloucks]

Also, 7-10vdc may not be enough to turn on the camera. The camera may have a minimum voltage to operate, which may be closer to 12vdc. The installation manual 'should' provide technical specifications for the input power to the camera. e.g. "Input Voltage DC12~24" If not, the camera itself may have the input voltage stamped on it.

[kvg4]

jrloucks wrote:
Sounds to me like you're not getting proper chassis ground and +12v electrical connection to the camera.

The chassis ground is the outside metal cylinder of the back-up light bulb. The +12v (hot) is the center 'nib' on the bottom of the bulb. You have to get the camera wiring orientation correct or it won't power up for you.

I installed a wireless back-up camera on my 1984 class c. I hard-wired the +12v wire from the camera to hot-on-ignition wire near the fridge (I was repairing the rear of the motor-home at the time so had access to the interior walls.) I used a stainless-steel machine screw with a lock-washer into the chassis for a common ground. See picture. I confirmed the rear metal siding was a good chassis ground before adding the camera.


Click For Full-Size Image.

Thank you! This is helpful. I was hoping someone else had set one up on a similarly old unit. All the tutorials are for newer vehicles.

[jrloucks]

Sounds to me like you're not getting proper chassis ground and +12v electrical connection to the camera.

The chassis ground is the outside metal cylinder of the back-up light bulb. The +12v (hot) is the center 'nib' on the bottom of the bulb. You have to get the camera wiring orientation correct or it won't power up for you.

I installed a wireless back-up camera on my 1984 class c. I hard-wired the +12v wire from the camera to hot-on-ignition wire near the fridge (I was repairing the rear of the motor-home at the time so had access to the interior walls.) I used a stainless-steel machine screw with a lock-washer into the chassis for a common ground. See picture. I confirmed the rear metal siding was a good chassis ground before adding the camera.


Click For Full-Size Image.

[kvg4]

[kvg4]

Harvey51 wrote:
Just use a bare wire wound on each battery terminal to connect power to camera and monitor.

It isn’t very complicated - just 12 volts to camera and monitor and a coax cable from camera to monitor.

I chose to use power from the motorhome house (propane detector circuit) via a switch on the driver’s seat so I can use it while driving - very handy when pulling a trailer with kayaks and seeing wildlife without scaring it when camping. I mounted the camera at the top of the rear window, aimed at an angle so I can see the hitch and kayaks - very handy when hooking up and the angle provides a lot more distance sense than a camera mounted on the license plate. I can easily back up to half a foot from a post.

The system I’m using supports both coax and wireless connection from camera to monitor. I use the coax in the motorhome but have installed another one in our 1992 van using wireless. Easier to install but I was a bit shocked this week when my friend who also has a DIY backup camera parked near our van. I had left the switch on and he got the view from my camera instead of his when he shifted out of reverse so no power to his camera.

I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25

[kvg4]

ItsyRV wrote:
Does the camera have IR capability? If so, just cup your hands over the camera and see if the IR lights are lit. You really should be checking the operation on a bench. You can do this by hooking the camera and transmitter to a 12 volt source (your car or a transformer or old battery still charged) and the monitor to the coach. If it works, the issue may be your wiring, how your hooking it up or even weak signal at the monitor. But first you need to make sure the system will work on its own.

I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25

[kvg4]

cougar28 wrote:
Make sure you have the positive wired to the correct wire on the camera. Use a 12v tester and test between the power supply for 12v- where your hooking the camera wires power wires. Dose the camera need paired to the monitor.

I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25

[kvg4]

ItsyRV wrote:
What troubleshooting have you done already?

Is the camera actually getting power?
Ditto for the transmitter?
Is the monitor powering up?
If multiple video settings on monitor, are you sure its on the right wireless one?

So how far have you gotten?

I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25

[kvg4]

Flute Man wrote:
If I were you, I would hook it up on a bench first with a good 12 V supply and get it running on your workbench first.
Jerry parr

I did a bench test and it's working well! Booted right up. I tried to hook it up to my reverse light and then just a tail light. Both putting out about 7-10V when engaged and nothing. There's something happening on the camera wiring end. I'll attach some photos of what the set up is back there - hopefully you have some advice. Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/5oHeX25

[Harvey51]

Just use a bare wire wound on each battery terminal to connect power to camera and monitor.

It isn’t very complicated - just 12 volts to camera and monitor and a coax cable from camera to monitor.

I chose to use power from the motorhome house (propane detector circuit) via a switch on the driver’s seat so I can use it while driving - very handy when pulling a trailer with kayaks and seeing wildlife without scaring it when camping. I mounted the camera at the top of the rear window, aimed at an angle so I can see the hitch and kayaks - very handy when hooking up and the angle provides a lot more distance sense than a camera mounted on the license plate. I can easily back up to half a foot from a post.

The system I’m using supports both coax and wireless connection from camera to monitor. I use the coax in the motorhome but have installed another one in our 1992 van using wireless. Easier to install but I was a bit shocked this week when my friend who also has a DIY backup camera parked near our van. I had left the switch on and he got the view from my camera instead of his when he shifted out of reverse so no power to his camera.

[kvg4]

ItsyRV wrote:
Does the camera have IR capability? If so, just cup your hands over the camera and see if the IR lights are lit. You really should be checking the operation on a bench. You can do this by hooking the camera and transmitter to a 12 volt source (your car or a transformer or old battery still charged) and the monitor to the coach. If it works, the issue may be your wiring, how your hooking it up or even weak signal at the monitor. But first you need to make sure the system will work on its own.

Could I do the bench test with my motorhome truck battery? If so - how do I hook the wire up? Thanks!