Swapped the converter and DC board out yesterday. The DC board comes with he converter. You don't have to swap it out if you don't want to, but unless you purchase the remote pendent for the converter, that board is the only way you'll be able to change the charging mode. It has an indicator LED and push button to control it.
The new system.
It was almost a wire for wire transfer with a couple noted exceptions.
On the old DC board the circuits are numbered from top to bottom. 1-11.
On the new DC board the circuits are number from bottom to top, 1-12. So you've got an extra one. However, circuits 1 and 2 are designated as low current circuits. circuit 11 on the old (circuit 2 on the new) was my 30 amp awning motor. So I swapped it with my CO and LP detector circuit..
That LED indicator and push button are at the top of the DC board directly over your row of fuses. That means once the cover of the WFCO is back on you no longer have access to them, depending on your model and year WFCO panel. This is a big reason why some order the remote pendent and run it elsewhere more convenient. I chose to cut the panel. I cut (extended) the cutout for the row of fuses and brought it even with the top frame of the panel. This will give me easy access to the mode button if I need it.
Turning it, batteries down to 12.0 volts, this converter initially went for the normal 13.6 volt charge pattern. I pushed the button taking it up to 14.4. I heard the inverter genny belch and idle up due to the increase in current. Good enough for me to know it's doing the job. Also watched the percentage increase from 21% to 70 % on the solar controller in the space of about 30 minutes. Not an accurate reading at all as it thinks the batteries are literally at 14.4 volts, but comparing that to watching the increase under normal charging - what a difference. To watch the percentage go up instead of walking away and checking to see if it has gone up at all.
Later today I'll go put this panel cover back on the box and snap another picture to add to this post.
Next project: Inverter time.
The new system.
It was almost a wire for wire transfer with a couple noted exceptions.
On the old DC board the circuits are numbered from top to bottom. 1-11.
On the new DC board the circuits are number from bottom to top, 1-12. So you've got an extra one. However, circuits 1 and 2 are designated as low current circuits. circuit 11 on the old (circuit 2 on the new) was my 30 amp awning motor. So I swapped it with my CO and LP detector circuit..
That LED indicator and push button are at the top of the DC board directly over your row of fuses. That means once the cover of the WFCO is back on you no longer have access to them, depending on your model and year WFCO panel. This is a big reason why some order the remote pendent and run it elsewhere more convenient. I chose to cut the panel. I cut (extended) the cutout for the row of fuses and brought it even with the top frame of the panel. This will give me easy access to the mode button if I need it.
Turning it, batteries down to 12.0 volts, this converter initially went for the normal 13.6 volt charge pattern. I pushed the button taking it up to 14.4. I heard the inverter genny belch and idle up due to the increase in current. Good enough for me to know it's doing the job. Also watched the percentage increase from 21% to 70 % on the solar controller in the space of about 30 minutes. Not an accurate reading at all as it thinks the batteries are literally at 14.4 volts, but comparing that to watching the increase under normal charging - what a difference. To watch the percentage go up instead of walking away and checking to see if it has gone up at all.
Later today I'll go put this panel cover back on the box and snap another picture to add to this post.
Next project: Inverter time.
