Looking for solar suggestions

[deadticket8]

I full timed off and on(mostly on) for over 20 years. Retired in a house and still love traveling and camping. I bought a small v nosed cargo trailer that I will be boon docking in some nights to save hotel money.I am interested in installing solar and battery(no inverter) to run an led light and a roof vent fan, maybe a 12volt charging outlet for cell phone. I was slogging through threads that had more to do with alternators, large battery banks, tying into main power. My needs are simple, I want the option of bedding down for the night with my dogs and a good book when stopping for night or dry camping. Suggestions welcome. Experience Very welcome! Thank you in advance.

[steveksfc]

Here is a 100 watt panel complete with 20 amp controller and cable https://www.amazon.com/Komaes-Monocrystalline-Bundle-Controller-Connectors/dp/B01AHHEOHU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1518499379&sr=8-14&keywords=100+watt+solar+panel+kit+complete $136.79

[Almot]

deadticket8 wrote:
Gosh the price at camping world is sick. Also according to someones specs I should be looking at 16.6 amps for 2- 80 watt panels but Solarblvd said a 15 is fine.

Camping World is not usually the place for solar anything.
Home Depot started carrying reasonably priced panels in the last few years.
Solar Blvd is a good source for panels and few other things.
AZ Wind Sun www.solar-electric.com may have batteries, DC breakers etc.
Dozens more online solar stores.
Amazon and Ebay have a lot of things but I wouldn't buy there anything important unless this is exactly the item I'm looking for.

I don't know what the suggestion of 16.6A controller was based on, given 10.7A total current of panels. With 20% safety margin it will be 13A controller, but they don't exist in 13A, so the closest one would be 15A, as written few posts earlier.
I'm relieved to hear that Solar Blvd agrees with me 😉
Still, have a good look at Grape 40A in Home Depot. At that price it's packed with features, and there is no punishment for bigger amps rating.

[MrWizard]

Almot wrote:
Cargo trailer, poorly insulated, can be hot as hell or freezing cold.
Cold you can fight off small propane heater without 12V draw, just make sure of adequate ventilation.
On hot days/nights you might want to run 12V fan on High, about 30-40 AH over 12 hours, together with LED lights. For this reason I would get battery group 31.

100W solar might work, if augmented frequent charging from truck alternator. With 10A solar controller.

Why do you Assume he will not insulate, and can not do a proper build conversion

[deadticket8]

I am trying to work with Solar blvd as someone suggested. Going slow. I am not interested in adding a 7 pin to my car but thanks for suggestion. I do camping with no hookups, so this is what I want to explore. Gosh the price at camping world is sick. Also according to someones specs I should be looking at 16.6 amps for 2- 80 watt panels but Solarblvd said a 15 is fine.

[beemerphile1]

deadticket8 wrote:
...Ford Escape which is reason for light traveling. 4 pin setup....

Solar is fine but it would be well worth the $$ to install a seven way plug and charging capability from the Escape to the trailer battery.

[Almot]

Little slope on the panel is for drainage only. It's only few degrees, won't affect solar output much, no matter what direction you park the trailer.

I see some fireworks coming :)...
Definitely not 6A controller. 5.36A short circuit current will DOUBLE in parallel wiring. 11A, make it 15A controller for safety margins. There is no punishment in getting 20A-30A controller, only the price goes higher. Home Depot have Grape 40A controller for $50, with remote monitoring on smartphone.

Yes, panels (usually) have special connectors called MC4. You will need a pair of MC4 Y-spliters for parallel wiring, Solar Blvd used to include them for free with some kits. Or get it from Ebay/Chinazon. From those spliters to controller you run MC4 extension cable, any solar store will have it. You will cut it in half to make 2 pieces, MC4 on one end for splitter and bare end to controller.

Or go cheap and splice with whatever spare cable and splicers you have laying around.

[deadticket8]

I went to a site link and am looking at 2 80 watt panels solar synergy from Solar Blvd.Trailer on order but I think they will fit(comes with roof vent). Will take suggestion on tilting slightly back(1 1/2* like a drain pipe!)Although its going to depend where I park sometimes. Need more info on controller. There is a 6 amp controller by Morningstar. Panels say 5.36 amp short circuit current. Not really sure how that applies to controller. Hopefully customer service can answer questions. Also these will be wired in parallel, not sure if I splice the wires together or do they have special connection? I am learning.

[Almot]

deadticket8 wrote:
Was looking at one( Renogy) but as always some sketchy reviews regarding controller.

Because they ARE sketchy :).
Renogy put entry-level controllers in their kits, controller brand varies. Connectors also vary, some people get better Anderson connector and some get flimsy 2-pole plug.

If you are set on a portable solar, this is different from permanent flat roof install. People with portables benefit more when they stay put most of the time - 100W portable works as 140W flat panel because it's tilted, but portable won't get you any charging on the road. Renogy sell 100W portable "solar suitcase" that is convenient to use and is overpriced, compared to kits that are not "suitcase" type.

OTH, if you go permanent flat route, consider making that "flat" install with few degrees slope to shed water and debris. Doesn't matter to what side, it's only few degrees. Tilt it to the back, for better aerodynamics on the road.

All these kits have basic off-brand controllers that might suit your needs, but sometimes it is not just basic but poorly made and stops working. You can upgrade it later.

[deadticket8]

Thanks everyone! I no longer own a pickup, Ford Escape which is reason for light traveling. 4 pin setup. Got some reading to do! The brand packages are helpful. Was looking at one( Renogy) but as always some sketchy reviews regarding controller.

[Boon_Docker]

Here is a complete 100 watt kit for under a $150 delivered.

[CA_Traveler]

BTW Shipping solar panels is expensive due to their size so add that cost.

[CA_Traveler]

My son wanted solar to keep his batteries charged while in storage plus some. But I found 2 80W used panels which is more that you asked about.

100W might be adequate for you but consider a 160W 12V panel from Solar Blvd as you'll have room for more power or just plenty when it rains all day.

Here's my son's install. Click here.

[scrubjaysnest]

From our experience for a grp 27 or 31 true deep cycle you will want about 160 watts of solar in full sun. That said if battery life isn't important 80 to 100 watts will work.

[Almot]

Cargo trailer, poorly insulated, can be hot as hell or freezing cold.
Cold you can fight off small propane heater without 12V draw, just make sure of adequate ventilation.
On hot days/nights you might want to run 12V fan on High, about 30-40 AH over 12 hours, together with LED lights. For this reason I would get battery group 31.

100W solar might work, if augmented frequent charging from truck alternator. With 10A solar controller.

[kerrlakeRoo]

Your described usage is so low that you could simply install a single battery Group 27 or 31 and a single 100 watt panel and basic controller from Home Depot or from one of the online sellers (www.solarblvd.com) etc
and you would be well past covering your charging needs if there is any sun at all. A maxxair or fantastic fan if kept in one of the lower settings uses less than one amp of power, and LED lights use very little as well.
You likely could place the battery on the tongue and if your tow vehicle uses a 7 pin plug, let it charge the trailer on the days that you move, and on the days you dont, simply start the truck and then connect jumper cables to the trailer battery for a half hour and get whta you need.