Hi all. Newb here. Just purchased a 5th wheel for the 1st time. Travel supreme express 2000 38'. Had 3 other bumper pulls in the past. Really like the trailer a lot but it needs some work. Some problems I found while inspecting it ( with no help from the lying sellers lol) and some I found after a few days (I guess they failed to mention). I want to start a thread to go through the process of my "rebuild". I have to replace roof, two rotten wall sections, toilet leak, some cabinet frames, and what ever else comes along. I will have lots of questions along the way and maybe teach someone else how to do something they don't know.
I'll start out with some pic of my 5er.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Photo.
1st thing thing I'am doing is trying to stop the leak with a temporary fix till I can get it in my shop. I couldn't see any places that looked like they would leak till I removed the old caulk. The caulk was very easy to peel off and I realized the water had seeped under it to get inside.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Further inspection reviled the hidden part of the roof that looked new (nice off white color and thick feel) the exposed part was just rubber (black color and very thin) most of the roof looked like it was flaking. Kinda looks like old cool seal someone put on it. Hard to see but the dark spot in this pic is the hole I found and the rotten wood showing. 1/4" hole that was under the caulk. Also, there is a 1/2" gap between the trim piece in the back and the trim down the sides.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Got to looking at that trim gap and found this. Whole back "cap" of tt was separating from body. Only explanation I can give is maybe the wet wood inside swelled up and pushed it away.
Click For Full-Size Image.
I'll start out with some pic of my 5er.
1st thing thing I'am doing is trying to stop the leak with a temporary fix till I can get it in my shop. I couldn't see any places that looked like they would leak till I removed the old caulk. The caulk was very easy to peel off and I realized the water had seeped under it to get inside.
Further inspection reviled the hidden part of the roof that looked new (nice off white color and thick feel) the exposed part was just rubber (black color and very thin) most of the roof looked like it was flaking. Kinda looks like old cool seal someone put on it. Hard to see but the dark spot in this pic is the hole I found and the rotten wood showing. 1/4" hole that was under the caulk. Also, there is a 1/2" gap between the trim piece in the back and the trim down the sides.
Got to looking at that trim gap and found this. Whole back "cap" of tt was separating from body. Only explanation I can give is maybe the wet wood inside swelled up and pushed it away.
The part I was dreading is now over. Glueing down the sides. Couldn't figure out which way I wanted to do it. So I finally decided to use liquid nails and staples to install the luan to the frame. LOTS OF STAPLES. Like every 2". Worked great.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
From here I went ahead with the contact cement. I used 2 whopping coats and just beat it down with a rubber hammer. Seemed to work pretty decent. Couldn't really find a way to clamp the whole area down. There are more expensive products that I could have used, but I took the cheap route at 35.00 per gallon vs 170-210.00 per gallon.
EDIT. Now that it's been glued down a few days with the contact cement. Most of it seems to be holding, but there are a few small areas thAt are not holding good. Not sure if I would recommend it. Good enough for me, I see no bubbling or anything and I'll reshoot the loose areas with some liquid nails.
From here I went ahead with the contact cement. I used 2 whopping coats and just beat it down with a rubber hammer. Seemed to work pretty decent. Couldn't really find a way to clamp the whole area down. There are more expensive products that I could have used, but I took the cheap route at 35.00 per gallon vs 170-210.00 per gallon.
EDIT. Now that it's been glued down a few days with the contact cement. Most of it seems to be holding, but there are a few small areas thAt are not holding good. Not sure if I would recommend it. Good enough for me, I see no bubbling or anything and I'll reshoot the loose areas with some liquid nails.
Got a couple of weeks to work on this "wreck" while in between jobs so should be moving a bit faster. Got the rafters back in yesterday. With the roof decking.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Today I mostly scraped and cleaned off the fiberglass on both sides to prepair for glueing it back down. That took all day. Glued down one small spot of fiberglass for a test run. Hopefully by tomorrow I will have the wall exterior complete. Hope so, it's a pain.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Today I mostly scraped and cleaned off the fiberglass on both sides to prepair for glueing it back down. That took all day. Glued down one small spot of fiberglass for a test run. Hopefully by tomorrow I will have the wall exterior complete. Hope so, it's a pain.
@Westend
Thanks for that advice. I've been trying to keep the same measurements while I'am rebuilding but some I don't have. Since you told me that, every time I add something or screw it down I put the cap on just to make sure it's right , lol. I have it suspended just behind the trailer and can easily swing it over when needed to make sure everything is right. Got it held up by 4 ratchet straps. One set is close, to move it in and the other set is a few feet back to move it out of the way.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Since the last post I haven't had too much time to work on it but I got the 2 walls tore out and replaced. Also tore off the roof that was bad. Took out 2 rafters and about 45" of roof decking.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Thanks for that advice. I've been trying to keep the same measurements while I'am rebuilding but some I don't have. Since you told me that, every time I add something or screw it down I put the cap on just to make sure it's right , lol. I have it suspended just behind the trailer and can easily swing it over when needed to make sure everything is right. Got it held up by 4 ratchet straps. One set is close, to move it in and the other set is a few feet back to move it out of the way.
Since the last post I haven't had too much time to work on it but I got the 2 walls tore out and replaced. Also tore off the roof that was bad. Took out 2 rafters and about 45" of roof decking.
Thanks! I found some 1" foam board which seams to be rare around here. R-6 Jammed it in between the floor joists to block some of the air that seeps into the cargo bays. Then installed the decking. Glad that's over with. Onto the walls.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Got the compartment floor and framing for main floor back in. Put kilz on everything just for good measure.
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Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Finished tearing out the lower floor that went to the storage bays.
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Started the first part of the rebuild process with these small curved pieces.
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Started the first part of the rebuild process with these small curved pieces.
More tearing out. Just going slow with it to make sure I put it back together right. Taking out anything I see that has water stains and is easy to remove. I was getting a bit overwhelmed with it all so decided to focus attention to rebuilding the floor and working my way up. Probably the only approach anyway. I was pulling some type of "caulking" from under the trailer. Sealed up the bottom "skirting". This stuff pulled off fairly easy, acted like a rubber band but I could hardly break it. Anyone know what type sealant this is?
Click For Full-Size Photo.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
Click For Full-Size Image.
@westend. Ya I looked at that a while ago and saw what you did. Just checking the options.
Was thinking of using 2- foam type boards with a small air gap between them. Biggest concern is the moisture. Here is what I found at lowes here.
Blue board 3/4=4R 1/2-3R
R-max ( if I remember right it had foil on one side)
1/2------5/8------3/4
3.2r-----4r--------5r
White foam with foil on one side- need 3/4" air to get full R value.
1"-----------3/4----------5/8---------1/2
Foam--------------3.8----------3------------2.5---------2
Foil-----------------.17----------.17----------.17---------.17
3/4" air gap------2.8----------2.8----------2.8---------2.8
Totals-------------6.82---------6------------6.5---------5
I'am thinking either of the 1st 2 at 1/2" then 1/2" air gap then the white foam at 1/2" would give me roughly 8R. I don't know...just thinking out loud.
Did some more demo today. Forgot to take pics. Here is one when I started, after I removed the back
Click For Full-Size Photo.
Was thinking of using 2- foam type boards with a small air gap between them. Biggest concern is the moisture. Here is what I found at lowes here.
Blue board 3/4=4R 1/2-3R
R-max ( if I remember right it had foil on one side)
1/2------5/8------3/4
3.2r-----4r--------5r
White foam with foil on one side- need 3/4" air to get full R value.
1"-----------3/4----------5/8---------1/2
Foam--------------3.8----------3------------2.5---------2
Foil-----------------.17----------.17----------.17---------.17
3/4" air gap------2.8----------2.8----------2.8---------2.8
Totals-------------6.82---------6------------6.5---------5
I'am thinking either of the 1st 2 at 1/2" then 1/2" air gap then the white foam at 1/2" would give me roughly 8R. I don't know...just thinking out loud.
Did some more demo today. Forgot to take pics. Here is one when I started, after I removed the back
