Residential fridge replacement

[NeverHome2]

We are in the process of replacing our Norcold 1200 with a Samsung RF18 in our 2005 HR Endeavor. We have an inverter & generator and almost never dry camp. The Samsung will fit thru our entry door nicely... maybe an inch to spare. All the dimensions of the Samsung indicated that it will fit nicely in the same opening as the Norcold. The only dimension that will be close is the height. We have Lipert furnace under the fridge (9.5" or 10"). That leaves about .125" to .5" clearance at the top of the Samsung. The debate is if the furnace should be removed or not. It is one of two furnaces in the coach.

Several questions:

We were wondering if anyone out there had a similar issue?
Were you able to leave the furnace and was the clearance adequate?
Can you provide tips on how you built the floor for residential fridge (either over the furnace or not)?
If you removed the furnace, how did you handle covering the outside hole? It is rather large and painted to match the coach.

[Bill_Satellite]

Glad you could find the latch. It works perfectly and has been in place for about 15 years without issue.

[Joe_Way]

rkentzel wrote:
I would not recommend screwing any thing around the edges of the refer there is a hot gas loop and if you drive a screw in that you have a nice stainless yard ornament

Not a problem in our situation--latch will mount on face frame, plate will mount on edge of door which has no wiring or plumbing.

[rkentzel]

I would not recommend screwing any thing around the edges of the refer there is a hot gas loop and if you drive a screw in that you have a nice stainless yard ornament

[Joe_Way]

Joe Way wrote:

Bill.Satellite wrote:
I use a wonderful lock by a company called LAMP. I don't remember where I found this but it's quick and simple. Your setup would require 2.

Are there any identifying markings on the latch in addition to the manufacturer? I've been looking for one like it.

Never mind--I found it on Amazon--pricy, but I will get one.

The fridge door on our old Norcold has an add-on latch in addition to the OE latch, and we still have to block the add-on latch with a wooden shim to keep it closed. Oddly, we never have had a problem with the OE latch on the Freezer.

[NeverHome2]

Thanks everyone! We are very happy with the new fridge. The biggest advantage is we no longer need to worry about the Norcold catching on fire! There already was some blackening of the insulation on the Norcold.

We are going with the no cost solution for keeping the door closed: bungee cord. No cost and the DW can easily install!

[Joe_Way]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
I use a wonderful lock by a company called LAMP. I don't remember where I found this but it's quick and simple. Your setup would require 2.

Are there any identifying markings on the latch in addition to the manufacturer? I've been looking for one like it.

[yamerhammer1]

You do good work. It looks great!

[Bill_Satellite]

I use a wonderful lock by a company called LAMP. I don't remember where I found this but it's quick and simple. Your setup would require 2.

[Ron3rd]

Nice work, thanks for sharing!

[davosfam]

NeverHome2 wrote:
The new fridge is in and looks great! So much more room than the old one and bright light inside too! Top shelf is a little high but not a problem since we are both tall. Plan to use bungee cord for the doors. Found decorative aluminum grate for under the fridge to allow air intake for the furnace. Overall, very pleased with the project!

I am green with envy! It looks great!

[TNGW1500SE]

Very nice work. Now go reward yourself with some ice cream!

[NeverHome2]

The new fridge is in and looks great! So much more room than the old one and bright light inside too! Top shelf is a little high but not a problem since we are both tall. Plan to use bungee cord for the doors. Found decorative aluminum grate for under the fridge to allow air intake for the furnace. Overall, very pleased with the project!

[Slownsy]

Peaple in Australia are installing inverter fridges I belive mainly Mitsubishi and they operate of a 300W PSW inverter
.Frank.

[davosfam]

Gdetrailer wrote:
In your case, no need for an inverter since you never camp without shore power.

BUT to answer your question..

You are correct, to start a inductive load like a fridge compressor you must have an inverter large enough to handle the large startup surges.

Typically compressor run current will be about 1A at 120V, but the startup surge current can be 9A-10A at 120V.

Some folks have been able to get away with a 800W inverter but it is better to error on the larger side in this case.

For my setup I went with a Tripplite PV1250, it has 1250W continuous with a surge rating of 2500W for up to 10 minutes..

Thank you. Very helpful to know. I am already plotting my RV fridge's death. Haha!