My unit came within 1/2" of height of fitting. Had to remove the floor and added side rails 1/2' lower to support the new refer. DW did not want to loose the drawer below. I added right angle metal brackets to the top corners of the drawer opening to help support the load. The weight is carried by the side rails and the front cross member which I cut down 1/2". The foil backed insulation is to keep stuff from falling into the drawer.
I added 500 AH of batteries and a 1000W PSW inverter which will run it for 36+ hours before needing to recharge. Could have gotten by with 250AH as my house batteries need charging every 12-18 hours under normal use when boondocking. When running a EnergyStar refer is so effecient it only uses 8 amps DC... 96W AC... less than a 100W bulb. I wish I'd figured this out several years ago before spending too much money on my NoCold 1200 and we boondock often.
Here is my DIYinstall.
I added 500 AH of batteries and a 1000W PSW inverter which will run it for 36+ hours before needing to recharge. Could have gotten by with 250AH as my house batteries need charging every 12-18 hours under normal use when boondocking. When running a EnergyStar refer is so effecient it only uses 8 amps DC... 96W AC... less than a 100W bulb. I wish I'd figured this out several years ago before spending too much money on my NoCold 1200 and we boondock often.
Here is my DIYinstall.
It is in and it fits! The doors are not on the new fridge yet but there should be about 1-1/2" clearance. The floor has extra 2 x 4 support on all 4 corners. There is still the electric and water hook ups to be done. Those can be accessed from outside thru the old fridge vent. Should have more pictures shortly!
Everything out and ready to be re-engineered:
Bracing started:
New floor with access for water and electric:
Everything out and ready to be re-engineered:
Bracing started:
New floor with access for water and electric:
I built a plywood platform over the bottom drawer in my Sunova that the fridge sits on and cut the cabinets so it fit. It you look at the big box DIY stores, you may be able to find some finished trim that matches your woodwork. Look in with the paneling, molding and flooring. Sounds like if it's that close you may ave an easy install. We went with a bigger fridge that the Nevercold brand that was factory installed. You also need to think about what you're going to do with the old fridge vents. They may be open to the outside with no screening since they are vented due to burning propane. I replaced my side vent with one of these:
Google "boat hatch"
and then removed to roof vent and sealed it with:
I made sure I had airflow around the new fridge by venting it above and below to the inside of the RV. You're going to have some 12 volt wiring that you need to "cap off" so there's no short later down the road. You may think of some use for it. The only drawback is you will be able to keep ice cream and it will make you fat.
Google "boat hatch"
and then removed to roof vent and sealed it with:
I made sure I had airflow around the new fridge by venting it above and below to the inside of the RV. You're going to have some 12 volt wiring that you need to "cap off" so there's no short later down the road. You may think of some use for it. The only drawback is you will be able to keep ice cream and it will make you fat.
